Within the next year I will rebuild my engine. I an considering the 434 cu vs rebuilding the 383 cu as is . Skip white has a 434 at 650 hp, I'm not going that crazy, maybe 550 hp or so,, kind of what they consider a mild build. The kit is cheep around $350 for the crank and parts. so the cost is minimal...
Just wondering if anyone has gone the 434 cu route as the torque is fantastic..
Skip white has a video of the engine running, it does sound great...

 

I bought their 434, by the time I am done with parts I could have bought 800hp crate motor. 383 might be cheaper. just my opinion.

 

I've been running a 383 worked with a Richmond 6 sp for 5 + years, things are starting change .. so it's time for a rebuild. I use it almost daily.(no rain / snow)

I have a carb and headers on the current motor + MSD box.

Other than the cost of the motor, I'm not sure what I may need to change, but I know something wont fit as usual..

I was wondering, if you don't mind how does it run and have you put miles on it. I was thinking stage 3 motor. The car weighs 2900 lbs so I could go stage 2 with my 3:55 rear. I don't need the extra HP so stage 3 will probably be the choice. If I go that way...

thanks again

thanks

 

how much does this setup cost ?

Vic

 

Build the bigger engine if you have the money.

Will

 

I bought the 434 short block. They sell a Chinese Dart block knock off for 800 cheaper but was thinking I was considering, but fear got the best of me.

It runs, I bought afr 220 comp port heads, and a slight cam. I'd like more cam. Tried Stock efi with tuning etc no dice, so I went carb.

They said it's 600hp with dart heads, they recommended AFR for lots more money, but 650hp, so I went comp port heads instead, should give more hp.

I went through White performance racing related to or the same as skip white and they are very helpful.

I had issues with the wrong oil pan sent, and wrong flywheel. The motor does have some leaks and we need to find where they are. It has not been driven really other than tuning purposes. (possible rear main)

Hind sight I might have done it different on my part.

My 3.45 gears imo are not enough so I'm going lower soon.

I have some where around $9K+ in the motor now and I could have more HP and more fun with LS for less money, or BBC.

What has been done to get your c4 to 2900 lbs?

 

my thoughts...

its not how many cubic inches but rather how much boost you are going to run through it.

 

don't want to run boost.. just motor.

To drop weight, TPI setup, heads, headers, seats, spare & jack etc and rims.

Weighed it at a local truck scale 2910 with approx. ... 3/8 tank.

A club member is doing a LS conversion, he is having a lot of issues. I thought about it but the old school reliability is too good and easy to fix if something goes wrong..

My 71 cost me $5500 with a roller cam and dyno tune, matching numbers motor... runs excellent and as the engine builder said should go 300K+ miles.. based on my build / parts choices... (72 has 22K miles all original)

It's tight enough with a SBC, I do remember someone putting a BBC into a C4, but can't imagine working on it. (+ the weight).

The current carb setup is so reliable it's shameful.. Turn the key and go.. I do drive it a lot..

 

$350 for what exactly? I just checked with Jegs and they are selling the gasket kit from Cometic for $250. Even the Eagle rotating assembly is $750 so I'm not sure what he is giving you for that little money. I have yet to come across anything in this world as good AND cheap. So yes, I'm kinda leery about when the other shoe drops.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Eagle/Eagle-Ch...rPage=60&pno=1 and even tht comes with a cast crank. Also the pistons are hypereutectic things and not forged. Sorry to say but this sounds like a grab client, get him to drop a few bucks, hopes he doesn't hit it hard during the warranty period and sells it before it comes back.

 

What old school reliability? I have a 383 and it is TPI and I don't have too many issues since I am not afraid of the computer and use it to gather information when I need fixing. If I had a carb on it, I might not have issues on a given set of circumstances but I do remember on my ATVs having to rejet because we were running at altitude higher than the carb was set for. Carbs are great for people who are not able to absorb computers but as to running in 20 below to 120 above and varying altitudes, as well, I have my doubts. I drive my car on cold days as long as there is no snow on the ground and consider it parked for the winter.

 

be sure to build so that you can still do boost (not nitrous - inconvenient and incosistent) shoukd you change your mind.

ex. dont go with domed pistons (stuck with too high of a CR) or cast parts.

a simple head swAp to bigger cc chambers (if you decide to go boost - even though you say you wont) would be all you would need to do boost vs. a bottom end re-build

 

Absolutely. I built my 383 to be NA and the CR is 10.8:1. Now, I have to wait till this motor breaks to run boost. If I was smarter then, I'd have built it much lower so I can add a blower and change cam.

 

BBC is not as bad as people think ESPECIALLY if you remove ac. I seen one set in first hand even with all stock stuff.

Also a BBC can make 2 times the power of a SBC with the same step up of performance parts, and only weighs 200? maybe more lbs.

Even still 1200hp n/a in a 3100lb car is pretty nutty power to weight ratio.

just my thoughts.

Wow, That car is light for only those things removed

 

I'm no expert I'm only repeating what I was told from a blower place and major racers.

I have roughly the same compression as you, and newer cars have 11.0-11.5 and they are getting boosted.

I was told from blower works I can safely run 5-7 lbs on my compression.

Again, for me I think I want a BBC motor at some point. I am afraid of all that comes with an s/c unit itself.

 

On pump gas? I thought it could on race gas?

 

If you are serious call Gregg at blower works. Also go to yellow bullet forums and talk to people in the s/c section. They are no joke and they know their stuff.

I just happen to see how many issues they have with the s/c unites themselves that discouraged me.

Yes, I was told 10.8 is totally fine for a daily driving and that the s/c should add 150-200hp depending on boost level and or using a meth kit.

I was about to get a YSI for my application according to many and Gregg considering the size of motor and c4 mounting options..

 

I drive all year round, but don't do mountain driving here where I live the highest elevation is probably 500 feet.

I do not want to remove the A/C to put in a big block. A friend has a 572 in his Camaro and it sounds great. I guess that is a sign of getting older.

I have never had an issue driving with a carb in summer or winter and don't change the jets or settings. I drive my 71 all year, just came back from a 150 mile food run (25 - 45 degrees). (think cheese cake and pies at the farms), the 85 gets parked when temp is below 40 due to the summer tires.

I'm not afraid of computers and have worked with them most of my working life as an R & D engineer. On the new equipment we had and on the new machinery there were computers, sometimes we wondered why?. The computer machines were more "efficient", but the old machines never stopped. Both sides of the coin have advantages and draw backs..

To me it's like the push button start, you still hace a "fob" - now where do you put it, with a key you hang it in the ignition lock.

Jegs, Summit, Speedway and Honest Charley have a few kits and parts for the build as does most shops. I was looking at the cost difference between the two builds..

Will probably go with a 434 no boost. "mild build" ..

thanks

 

Just spoke to him. Will have to make it my 2016 winter project at the least. Too much work this winter, aka $$$ to do all at once and keep the wife happy.

 

Fair enough. I do like the way my ATVs run. I traded the wife's in on an exactly similar one other than it runs on EFI. We trailered them to the top of the mountain at 10000 feet for a ride with a group. All those that did NOT rejet had issues. That and the fact that there is no readouts and you have to tune by feel and it isn't as adjustable basically turns me off.

I wouldn't either. I can deal with no sound system but no AC is a dealbreaker. In the winter, it is harder to defog and in the summer, I just plain hate the heat. Only time I have the windows down is at the drive thru or sticking my finger out and someone on the road. If the AC is not working, either I figure out what a professional reinstall on everything is and tack on a few hundred or I pass on the purchase. As to sounding great, I would prefer silent running but since it isn't possible, as little noise as possible. I don't need and CERTAINLY DON'T WANT the rice kids and their opinions on the car.

Interesting. We had a guy who put an O2 sensor in the car and it does read differently for winter and summer. When I was in autocrossing, we had several people that did change the jets for early spring vs mid summer and back. One even never got the carb to run right so he had to change carbs for winter and summer. Somehow I never felt that my Jetskis ran right in cooler weather at the beginning and end of the season vs mid summer. Never need warm up like my 84 Camaro or neighbor's bike. All our bikes and Jetskis and ATVs are FI. Start and go and it runs nice out of the box. No choke and it changes the RPM as needed. And then there is my lawn equipment that I can't change out due to costs or they too would be FI

That's different. Most of the people I talk to are deathly afraid of EFI just because it has a computer they can't understand. In my case, I try getting readings and figure it out and if it is a carb, I don't even try, I just call service. Yes, when they go wrong, it is harder if you are not used to seeing readouts and have to knock around, trying to find someone who really is more than a "parts replacer" and you have to have tools to make it "talk" to you whereas the carbs have less electronic parts that can go wrong and you can throw parts at it cheaper than EFI.

I wish I could have a fob. The few cars I drove with them, you can put them in the pocket and just push the button. So leave the "key" in the pocket is great. One thing that is harder to lose if I don't have to take it out.

I did check out Summit and Jegs but for $350, I really don't see much. You can't get a good crank, rods or pistons for that kind of money so to say you can get a whole rotating assembly sounds a little too cheap. I'm afraid of cheap since they are usually cheap for a reason and I'd rather not save today and spend much more tomorrow to make it right.

 

Sorry I was comparing the price of a 383 vs 434.. for around $350 difference.

You can do a start button around $150. Get a Spal or equivalent (speedway or FLEE BAY) shaved door kit without the "poppers" to push open the doors. The kit comes with remotes, solenoids, receiver and other parts you need. Get 3 relays. Hook #1 relay into the door open wire so it locks on when powered by the wire. It allows power to the start relay and button which locks on when the button is pushed, also powers the coil. De-energizes the #1 relay. #1 relay when off allows the start button energize #3 to open the #2 stopping the engine.
Can be done with 2 relays but wiring gets a little complex for some.
I did it on a friends rat rod a year ago.

My only fear of computers is when the module becomes obsolete and unavailable - like in a C5 temperature control module. We had a few machines that were still good but the controls were bad.

Both sides are fun.. I just want to go simple..

Most Carb problems are PVC related, most replacement PVC valves don't resemble the original in specks. Flow to much at the wrong times. I can start my 1980 Chevy in 5 degree temps, turn on the radio and go.. Usually late for work.. . I run the electric choke off a temp sensor in the water jacket.