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Can anyone tell me how far the crank snout on a 93 LT1 sticks out past
the seal on the timing cover.
I ask because I broke an ear off of the hub and I am cutting it off and I'm
Worried about cutting into the crank.
Answer: not very far.
If you're at this point and that old busted hub won't come off yet, pull the water pump and Opti (if you haven't done so already) take a grinder and grind down the ears and o.d. of the hub until you can pull the timing chain cover off over the remains of the hub...don't worry about the crankshaft oil seal, you may even be able to pry it off with the hub still attached...in any case it'll be repaced anyway. Once the timing chain cover is off, remove the timing chain; this will expose the rest of the hub and lower chain sprocket which will allow the use of any of a number of conventional pullers. Keep at it Herb. Good luck. mike
If you're at this point and that old busted hub won't come off yet, pull the water pump and Opti (if you haven't done so already) take a grinder and grind down the ears and o.d. of the hub until you can pull the timing chain cover off over the remains of the hub...don't worry about the crankshaft oil seal, you may even be able to pry it off with the hub still attached...in any case it'll be repaced anyway. Once the timing chain cover is off, remove the timing chain; this will expose the rest of the hub and lower chain sprocket which will allow the use of any of a number of conventional pullers. Keep at it Herb. Good luck. mike
What about cutting the hub right where it changes circumference slightly.
Would that give me the clearance from the crank I need?
If I could just get a measurement on how far the front of the crank sticks out from the timing cover with the hub off that would sure help me out.
What about cutting the hub right where it changes circumference slightly.
Would that give me the clearance from the crank I need?
If I could just get a measurement on how far the front of the crank sticks out from the timing cover with the hub off that would sure help me out.
Measure from the front surface of the hub to the bottom of the hub (the surface where the original bolt holding the hub to the crank snout seated against) Transcribe that measurement to the outside of the hub and cut there. If any of that shoulder ("where it changes circumference slightly") remains you should be able to pull the timing chain cover / seal off over it; if not, some slight reduction of the OD of the remaining portion of the crank hub with a file or grinder should be all that's needed.
Last edited by mtwoolford; Jan 7, 2016 at 11:43 AM.
If you're at this point and that old busted hub won't come off yet, pull the water pump and Opti (if you haven't done so already) take a grinder and grind down the ears and o.d. of the hub until you can pull the timing chain cover off over the remains of the hub...don't worry about the crankshaft oil seal, you may even be able to pry it off with the hub still attached...in any case it'll be repaced anyway. Once the timing chain cover is off, remove the timing chain; this will expose the rest of the hub and lower chain sprocket which will allow the use of any of a number of conventional pullers. Keep at it Herb. Good luck. mike
Well I did what you suggested and got the timing cover off but the hub goes right up against the lower chain sprocket.
Can't grab the end and can't see how I could get the lower sprocket off without getting the hub off.
So, I'm right back where I was.
Trying to get the hub off. So I'll keep at it.
It was worth a try!
Well I did what you suggested and got the timing cover off but the hub goes right up against the lower chain sprocket.
Can't grab the end and can't see how I could get the lower sprocket off without getting the hub off.
So, I'm right back where I was.
Trying to get the hub off. So I'll keep at it.
It was worth a try!
I can feel your frustration. Some jobs just fight you every inch of the way.
Congrats on getting the timing chain cover off, that's half the battle. Unbolt the upper timing chain sprocket and remove it and the timing chain.
Get / rent a two, possibly three jaw puller designed to grab a gear or pulley from the backside; a typical example would be a puller for removing the lower timing gear sprocket...since that's what you're going to do. Thread a long bolt into the crank snout so the threaded portion of the puller has something to bear against, hook the puller legs behind the timing gear sprocket; tighten the puller and the timing gear sprocket should start to move forward, bringing the remains of the crank hub with it.
Last edited by mtwoolford; Jan 7, 2016 at 06:40 PM.
I can feel your frustration. Some jobs just fight you every inch of the way.
Congrats on getting the timing chain cover off, that's half the battle. Unbolt the upper timing chain sprocket and remove it and the timing chain.
Get / rent a two, possibly three jaw puller designed to grab a gear or pulley from the backside; a typical example would be a puller for removing the lower timing gear sprocket...since that's what you're going to do. Thread a long bolt into the crank snout so the threaded portion of the puller has something to bear against, hook the puller legs behind the timing gear sprocket; tighten the puller and the timing gear sprocket should start to move forward, bringing the remains of the crank hub with it.
That's exactly what I thought of doing but was worried about damaging the lower gear.
That's exactly what I thought of doing but was worried about damaging the lower gear.
Well that may or may not happen, or, it could be a non issue altogether. Speculation on my part, but I bet that your engine has reached the point in its life that there is sufficient "stretch" in the timing chain to warrant a new timing chain set; the new timing chain set will include a new lower timing chain sprocket. And since everything is now exposed, it would be easy and safe to apply a little heat as suggested by antfarmer2.
(antfarmer2? There's gotta be a story behind that moniker)
Well that may or may not happen, or, it could be a non issue altogether. Speculation on my part, but I bet that your engine has reached the point in its life that there is sufficient "stretch" in the timing chain to warrant a new timing chain set; the new timing chain set will include a new lower timing chain sprocket. And since everything is now exposed, it would be easy and safe to apply a little heat as suggested by antfarmer2.
(antfarmer2? There's gotta be a story behind that moniker)
Well that may or may not happen, or, it could be a non issue altogether. Speculation on my part, but I bet that your engine has reached the point in its life that there is sufficient "stretch" in the timing chain to warrant a new timing chain set; the new timing chain set will include a new lower timing chain sprocket. And since everything is now exposed, it would be easy and safe to apply a little heat as suggested by antfarmer2.
(antfarmer2? There's gotta be a story behind that moniker)
The engine has 77,000 mi on it. I was able to get the chain off but it sure didn't seem to have much play.
I tried heating the hub for 3 min. I'm not sure how long to heat it.
I had a big 3 claw puller and it didn't budge.
I would really like to see a picture of the front of the crank with the hub off.
This how mine looks :
put a chisle in the cut end and smack it and cut some more.
the only time I saw a pita like that is when some idiot put red locktight on my bobcat spline shaft.
you did put a longer bolt in?
Last edited by antfarmer2; Jan 7, 2016 at 11:04 PM.
put a chisle in the cut end and smack it and cut some more.
the only time I saw a pita like that is when some idiot put red locktight on my bobcat spline shaft.
you did put a longer bolt in?
I agree. and with the puller cinched up, don't be afraid to put some strain on that sucker. Then heat it. Cinch up some more, get that puller tight. Then leave it, knock off for the night. Come back in the morning, setting all night with the puller cinched up will probably break the initial bond holding the two together. From there, hopefully, things will get easier.
But if you're in a hurry you can always grind down the od of that hub and using a sharp chisel cut a series of slots lengthwise along the outside of hub. At some point that hub has to give up.
I'd think that maybe the correct gear puller might do better than a 3-finger device. Do you have a relationship with a local dealer? J-5825-A is the correct device. Is the excess of the flange hub going to allow it to work? Maybe
If you had a quality cut-off wheel it would be "done". Maybe rent/borrow, air/electric and be done.
An LT5 puller would be ideal but that's not likely. Here's an eBay offering for a correct remover (I'm not suggesting you buy) but the opportunity to see what I mean might help. The J-5825-A might be a little taller than this J-5825 but you can see what I mean regarding a more even pull.
Heat and chisels NO but cut-off wheel and chisel maybe or a very large "nut buster". I've a friend with a large enough "nut buster" that after a couple nice cuts with a cut-off tool I think would accomplish it easily. nut-splitter might get better GOOGLE responses.
I doubt the "yahoo and the Loctite"
With the longer pull you've got maybe both of the keys complicating the removal. It damn sure is a predicament - it ain't been a very pleasant experience for you yet. It will/should get better!!!
With the longer pull you've got maybe both of the keys complicating the removal. It damn sure is a predicament - it ain't been a very pleasant experience for you yet. It will/should get better!!!
I have seen the locktight trick. could not believe someone would do it. he will know if it was done if when cut in half it still does not want to come off.
let us know if you find the other key.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Jan 12, 2016 at 07:44 AM.