Changing coolant temperature sensor
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 16,089
Likes: 819
From: Dallas Texas
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Changing coolant temperature sensor
Any tips for changing the sensor that goes in the waterpump? 93 LT1
FSM says to drain all coolant. Honestly, if I don't have to, I won't. Just don't want to get the opti wet.
FSM says to drain all coolant. Honestly, if I don't have to, I won't. Just don't want to get the opti wet.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 462
Likes: 30
From: Riverside California
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
I believe there should be a pre sealant on the new sensor. Don’t over tighten and does not have to be screwed in all the way. Plan to stop tightening when the lock is facing the (left) drivers side of the car. Careful not to slip with the wrench and bust the plastic connector right off.
Clean up the area if need be before you remove the old sensor.
if you have not replaced you coolant in 2 years, now would be a good time. If your coolant is relatively new you can put 90% back in if you catch it in a clean bucket. I jack the driver's side a bit more higher so the coolant runs right down that shoot (I clean the shoot first) into my bucket. I always strain it when I put it back in.
Clean up the area if need be before you remove the old sensor.
if you have not replaced you coolant in 2 years, now would be a good time. If your coolant is relatively new you can put 90% back in if you catch it in a clean bucket. I jack the driver's side a bit more higher so the coolant runs right down that shoot (I clean the shoot first) into my bucket. I always strain it when I put it back in.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 16,089
Likes: 819
From: Dallas Texas
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Coolant is about 1.5 years old. I'll wait another 6 months flush it and replace it. Yes, new sensor has some sort of loctite on it. Thank you all
Last edited by 1993C4LT1; Jan 9, 2016 at 11:09 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,625
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From: Director of Bands
St. Jude Donor '08
When I changed mine, I put plastic and then a rag between the optic and the WP. Then I made a drip run out of tin foil that I placed right under the coolant temp sensor. It was tot overkill I'm sure but I did not drain any coolant for the job and no coolant ever got near the opti. Instead it ran down the foil drip run and into a pan under the radiator support.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 462
Likes: 30
From: Riverside California
I believe there should be a pre sealant on the new sensor. Don’t over tighten and does not have to be screwed in all the way. Plan to stop tightening when the lock is facing the (left) drivers side of the car. Careful not to slip with the wrench and bust the plastic connector right off.
Clean up the area if need be before you remove the old sensor.
if you have not replaced you coolant in 2 years, now would be a good time. If your coolant is relatively new you can put 90% back in if you catch it in a clean bucket. I jack the driver's side a bit more higher so the coolant runs right down that shoot (I clean the shoot first) into my bucket. I always strain it when I put it back in.
Clean up the area if need be before you remove the old sensor.
if you have not replaced you coolant in 2 years, now would be a good time. If your coolant is relatively new you can put 90% back in if you catch it in a clean bucket. I jack the driver's side a bit more higher so the coolant runs right down that shoot (I clean the shoot first) into my bucket. I always strain it when I put it back in.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Orlando FL
You can say goodbye to the ECT and the pump at 108 ft lbs. You're in the wrong section. FSM says 17 ft lbs or 204 inch lbs.
I never actually used a torque wrench on it possibly because getting the socket on it. I just snug it up to where the lock faces me so I can see it well to release it.
I never actually used a torque wrench on it possibly because getting the socket on it. I just snug it up to where the lock faces me so I can see it well to release it.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,579
Likes: 59
From: Trieste Italy
You can say goodbye to the ECT and the pump at 108 ft lbs. You're in the wrong section. FSM says 17 ft lbs or 204 inch lbs.
I never actually used a torque wrench on it possibly because getting the socket on it. I just snug it up to where the lock faces me so I can see it well to release it.
I never actually used a torque wrench on it possibly because getting the socket on it. I just snug it up to where the lock faces me so I can see it well to release it.
However my manual call for 17 lb ft too
Last edited by Christi@n; Jan 10, 2016 at 02:48 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 16,089
Likes: 819
From: Dallas Texas
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
New one is in, AC Delco of course
No more service engine soon light
Vette brothers, pray that it stays that way.
I haven't started the car since Friday morning, so I guess that's why it barely leaked any coolant out. It was very cold this morning, about 28 farenheit.
No more service engine soon light Vette brothers, pray that it stays that way.I haven't started the car since Friday morning, so I guess that's why it barely leaked any coolant out. It was very cold this morning, about 28 farenheit.
Last edited by 1993C4LT1; Jan 10, 2016 at 03:21 PM.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 462
Likes: 30
From: Riverside California
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,579
Likes: 59
From: Trieste Italy
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 187
Likes: 4
From: West Plano Tx
I just changed my tension pulley and serpentine belt and busted my coolant temp sensor. I noticed that my temp does not go past 142 degrees and my "service engine light" is on. I ordered a new CTS and hopefully it will fix the problem! Hope yours is fixed.