Is this AFR safe?
Thanks!
To start - I'd be around 25* total and AFR of 12.5-12.8 but don't chase an AFR number just to have it at a certain number.... Anywhere in the 12.5-12.8 range is safe and the engine will tell you on the time slip where it likes to be run in that range.
Like wise with the timing.... forget about this "pull X number of degrees per 50hp" stuff. That's 1980's tune up technology and it's burned up a bunch of engines... and given enough hits it'll burn yours up too.
When tuning nitrous - Always take more timing out than you think you need and work on cleaning up the fuel first.... Once you have the AF tune up clean, then start bumping the timing up 1* at a time until MPH falls off.
Then will you know the limits and where you need to be.
Will
i know my nx wet system didnt require any timing retard up to 100 shot, but i cant speK for your system/setup.
call the nitrous manufacturer tech support line and ask.
Thanks!
Timing is the real killer... all the extra fuel and oxygen burns HOT and super fast... you don't need timing advance in that situation and when you light it off too early starting the power stroke too soon BTDC your in trouble next go around because of the heat generated and trapped in the cyl.
11 anything AFR is bad enough to hurt it coupled with too much timing. Like I said knock some timing out and lean it out to the 12.5-12.8 AFR range.
Will
Last edited by rklessdriver; Feb 9, 2016 at 08:34 PM.
I'm not in agreement with you. Extra fuel (rich) will cool the combustion chamber. Extra oxygen (lean), aka nitrous, will find something to burn due to increased burn temperature. (like your piston) Think of an oxygen/acetylene torch. I haven't heard of a nitrous engine burning down due to extra fuel. Just my .02
Last edited by ANTI VENOM; Feb 22, 2016 at 07:26 PM.
Here it is straight from 2 of the top dogs in the nitrous industry. Right on the first page you Steve Johnson, Monte and Billy Stocklin (one of the top Pro Mod tuners) talking about rich v/s lean and the importance of timing advance....
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=126804
FYI I torched every piston in my race car last year because my new fogger came to me with a tune up sheet that had a typo for the starting tune up. Car was pretty fast but the plugs looked like crap.... So I broke out my wideband and found it was running 10.9-11.0 AFR....
On a baby 300 shot it only took 6 passes to crush the ring lands in all 8 Diamond custom nitrous pistons and it even bent the .215 wall H-13 wrist pins.... Over $1500 to replace 8 pistons, wrist pins and rings.
Will
Last edited by rklessdriver; Feb 25, 2016 at 04:06 PM.
Here it is straight from 2 of the top dogs in the nitrous industry. Right on the first page you Steve Johnson, Monte and Billy Stocklin (one of the top Pro Mod tuners) talking about rich v/s lean and the importance of timing advance....
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=126804
FYI I torched every piston in my race car last year because my new fogger came to me with a tune up sheet that had a typo for the starting tune up. Car was pretty fast but the plugs looked like crap.... So I broke out my wideband and found it was running 10.9-11.0 AFR....
On a baby 300 shot it only took 6 passes to crush the ring lands in all 8 Diamond custom nitrous pistons and it even bent the .215 wall H-13 wrist pins.... Over $1500 to replace 8 pistons, wrist pins and rings.
Will
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The motor started smoking a little because it was passing oil (frozen second ring). If I would have ignored the smoke and made one more pass it.... It would have been over... this piston would have looked like a torch burned down the side, because the oil passing into the chamber would have caused detonation.
You can see it cracked the lower top ring land support and crushed the land down on the 2nd ring locking it up.... You can also see a very fine line developing from the crown down to the top ring land where it was about to torch...

In all fairness I'm making near/over 1000HP so everything including damage and the rate it happens is magnified compared to a lower HP car.
A lot of people get away running nitrous rich. I did also when I first started out because all nitrous tune ups were rich and over timed.... The consensus from the experts is that those people just aren't making enough power to hurt parts in a hurry. And that makes sense to me today because once I really started to make some HP, I started hurting parts. I always thought that hurting parts was the nature of big power nitrous engines, because everybody was hurting parts at my level back then.
Past 10yrs I've been tuning my stuff to be "lean and mean". This is the first failure I have had in many years and I know for a fact it's due to it being too rich.
Will












