From what you said everything was fine till change was made. I am thinking the IAC was ajusted for that set up I would ajust it for the new setup.

 

IAC has single setting...the plunger. And that setting will not vary. Rest is controlled via computer. Its primary function is to provide air to the TB at idle. Your issue does not appear to be a start and die issue because of lack of air, but a lack of fuel since it will start using starting fluid.

 

It is good that you have 12 volts TO the injectors. What your looking for is the resistance....(information from old Forum posts and credit to poster),,,

Testing Injectors:
Pop the injector connector off and you will see 2 flat pins on the injector. 1 lead on each pin. meter is in ohms scale of course. Mine read about 17 ohms(the good ones). – FF1wms

Temperature will affect the ohms readings. The actual number is less important that the fact that they are all the same. – Pete K

Ohm them both hot and cold. - rick lambert

 

Thank you both. I think the IAC just threaded in and I could not figure out any adjustment. I did put a new TPS on and did adjust that accordingly. Today I used the injector cleaner and ran the car and energized the cold start injector for 10 seconds at a time with my power probe. I did this for about 15 minutes on and off. I am going to try a cold start tomorrow morning and see what we have. Thanks again guys.

 

If you have a bad idle where it is verified to be too high, it is probably dirty or going to need to be set. I would definitely advise you to set it using a scanner and NOT the FSM way which makes too many assumptions for my liking.

I would say that you should probably send your cold start injector to be cleaned and tested and if FIC thinks you have Multecs, toss them and send him the cold start injector for cleaning and testing. At which time, you should take the TB off, unbolt the top plate, take out the IAC and remove the IAC housing. Clean the pintle with a gentle spray of brake cleaner and wipe down gently. Clean all the passages in the TB. Get new gaskets and reassemble. Wait on injectors and assemble totally. Reset the IAC just to be sure.

I do this every 3 years so I know my injectors are cleaned and tested. I have never done an Ohm test since they only tell you if the coils are bad. You don't know if the pintles are bad. Those need to be cleaned every so often which is why I do them every 3 years so the IAC area and the injectors are clean.

 

Try letting the fuel pump run it's full two seconds before starting.

 

I wouldn't adjust it without a scanner. You have no idea what the RPM is or what it is trying to do or if your passages are dirty. Clean the TB then adjust it. Before I do that, I would ensure the timing is spot on. Get the motor to final operating temp, turn everything off and check the scanner for IAC counts. You want to see about 20-30.

Injector cleaners are snake oils IMO. Best case scenario is cleaning a room with a blindfold. You really don't know how clean it was or what else needs to be done. You might have Multec injectors and they really don't like the ethanol in our fuel. I just sent a set of injectors for testing from my 100K mile car. Out of 6, 1 was within spec and the others were 20cc off. Again, using the butt dyno, there was no need. The car ran "fine", whatever it means. The injectors don't fail suddenly so any loss of abilities is gradual and hard to notice especially when the ECM compensates for it.

I'd check it out first to see if you have Multecs. If not send all 9 to FIC for cleaning and testing. You won't notice any difference, FYI. That is because you are not usually looking at scan tools to see what the ECM is doing to compensate so it feels fine until a catastrophic failure.

https://secure.fuelinjectorconnectio...injectors.html

https://secure.fuelinjectorconnectio...r-service.html

 

BTDT. Fuel pump starts instantly to 43 psi. It doesn't seem to ramp up slowly (relatively). It pumps for 2 seconds but it is an instant jump to 43, depending on what you set it to.

 

Wow! Too much to digest and comment on. FWIW I do all of my adjusting with a scanner with live data. I agree with the no need for full 2 seconds of prime as I instantly jump to 40+ psi upon initial start up. No difference either way.

 

I use a scanner with all of my diagnosis and adjustments

Timing is spot on, I think per FSM

I will check the counts, thanks for that info

Injector cleaners are outstanding! I replace the OTC cleaner solution with Seafoam and run a slightly higher pressure. I have pulled a full set of injectors off after cleaning to compare the spray pattern and it was night and day. Just saying lol.

Ethanol isn't so bad at 10%. It is the moisture it draws which causes havoc.

And again, I am a scan tool junkie!

Just stumped on this one :-)

 

OK. Say you got somewhere with cleaning, how far did you get? I sprayed on cardboard before. Without a chamber, it is very difficult to know, not estimate, know the volume. I just sent some injectors off and it was about 20cc off spec. The momentary cranking showed that the pattern looked good. Years ago, I took injectors to the tech college with a bench. Pattern was good but something was wrong with one of them volume wise.

On Multec injectors, reading suggests that if it wasn't for the fact that the fuel cools the coils and Ethanol eats up the insulation in the coils, it isn't bad, in and of itself.

 

I bet I know who you're talking about. Extremely helpful guy! Pretty sure his username is "Agent86", or something close to that. Good luck!

 

I went ahead and ordered a set of rebuilt Bosch injectors from FIC. Listening to you guys it is not a bad PM thing to do anyway.

 

 

Do your throttle body clean up and in 3 years, repeat but this time, send the injectors out for cleaning and testing. That way you get an idea how long between cleaning. Around here, 100K seems to be ok for a daily driver and seasonal, since the fuel sits, it is good for about 3 years, give or take. Every time I send it out, the flow rates "before" and "after" are different. "Before" is lower volume and more variable and "after" is higher and less variance (maybe 1 or 2 cc). So every 3 years, I know my injectors are clean as is the entire TB and IAC is set right. As a bonus, if you cannot set the IAC using counts, you can suspect an air leak if the chip is properly tuned. Every time I have a leak, be it small or big, whether the ECM can compensate or not, I get 0 counts even when I shut off the butterflies.

 

That is my next step. 30 seconds to start this morning :-(

 

Take a cheap cigar and try blowing smoke in the vacumme lines and look for smoke coming out any leaks. Engine off.

 

He has a sister and knows how to use it. Much easier than blowing lines individually. It tells him if there are leaks or if something else is leaking. If I had to use smoke, I'd like to use the machine.

 

44 psi with KOEO then when it starts it drops to 36 psi. When I hit the throttle it jumps up over 40 psi then drops back to 36. When I shut it off, it stayed at 33 psi for about half an hour.

I pulled the IAC off and it appears I did not replace it as it showed its age with crud, although idle was not an issue and it passed the FSM tests.

I pulled the cold start injector and it had specs of dirt in it. I am pretty sure that is the culprit as I pulled the fuel rail during my upgrades in 2012 and probably crud got in the fuel rail upon reinstalling. It looked like small specs of rubber in the CSI. Could be from the old injector orings.

Going to ultrasonic clean the TB, replace the injectors and CSI as well as the IAC. I have a good feeling this will take care of things. The CSI is not available new so I will probably send it of to Fuel Injection Connection for a rebuild.

 

Just curious about your last sentence. How often do you develop leaks? It may be due to improper installation techniques? If you take the time to clean everything thoroughly and apply sealant where needed, you should not have regular leaks. Just a hint of old gasket could cause your problems. Also be sure to check that the surfaces are true. A flat edge and a light behind it should suffice. If any of my machined surfaces are questionable, I run them on the mill or surfacer. The extra time spent making sure things are perfect prior to assembly is time very well spent.