87 hard starting
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Jarrettsville Maryland
87 hard starting
My last post was in May of 2012. I was trying to fix a start issue and gave up on it. I'm back at it. I built a new shop and stored the car until I could move in.
My problem is the car won't start without starting fluid or turning the key on and off numerous times to prime the system. When it is warm, it starts right up. It was fine until I deleted the smog system, installed headers, cold air intake and a computer chip.
There was a fellow on here who was very helpful and knowledgeable. He repeatedly told people to "check all grounds first" with any problems. I forget his name. He also gave AutoZone diagrams with his assistance. Any idea who this was? Ed sticks in my head for some reason but not 100% sure.
Glad to be back!
My problem is the car won't start without starting fluid or turning the key on and off numerous times to prime the system. When it is warm, it starts right up. It was fine until I deleted the smog system, installed headers, cold air intake and a computer chip.
There was a fellow on here who was very helpful and knowledgeable. He repeatedly told people to "check all grounds first" with any problems. I forget his name. He also gave AutoZone diagrams with his assistance. Any idea who this was? Ed sticks in my head for some reason but not 100% sure.
Glad to be back!
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
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It connects the pump you most likely replaced it with a piece of hose. Pull the vacumme hose off the fpr and smell for fuel. Might clean your iac.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Feb 15, 2016 at 10:03 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
You need to start with the basics.
1) Check for fuel pressure. Should be 39-42 psi when you turn on the key...the system should prime to this pressure and hold.
2) Check for spark.
3) Where did you get your computer chip????? If your getting good fuel pressure and it is holding I would suspect your chip.
1) Check for fuel pressure. Should be 39-42 psi when you turn on the key...the system should prime to this pressure and hold.
2) Check for spark.
3) Where did you get your computer chip????? If your getting good fuel pressure and it is holding I would suspect your chip.
Last edited by John A. Marker; Feb 15, 2016 at 10:17 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Jarrettsville Maryland
You need to start with the basics.
1) Check for fuel pressure. Should be 39-42 psi when you turn on the key...the system should prime to this pressure and hold.
2) Check for spark.
3) Where did you get your computer chip????? If your getting good fuel pressure and it is holding I would suspect your chip.
1) Check for fuel pressure. Should be 39-42 psi when you turn on the key...the system should prime to this pressure and hold.
2) Check for spark.
3) Where did you get your computer chip????? If your getting good fuel pressure and it is holding I would suspect your chip.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
If the cold start injector was bad, it would take a little longer cranking...but it would start.
So you have good pressure. Good spark. Are the injectors actually firing? Are they original. Check with noid light.....
So you have good pressure. Good spark. Are the injectors actually firing? Are they original. Check with noid light.....
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Jarrettsville Maryland
If the cold start injector was bad, it would take a little longer cranking...but it would start.
So you have good pressure. Good spark. Are the injectors actually firing? Are they original. Check with noid light.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MmR-wXddVw
So you have good pressure. Good spark. Are the injectors actually firing? Are they original. Check with noid light.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MmR-wXddVw
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Jarrettsville Maryland
Thanks. I will pull the vacuum hose and check but would it run so good when it starts if this diaphragm were damaged? Just curious. Also, I may have overlooked the IAC motor last time. Good suggestion! I am also going to test that cold start injector.....when I can get down to the shop. It is raining buckets here in Maryland!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Jarrettsville Maryland
I put the noid light on the cold start injector. It stayed lit and did not flash which I think is normal. I reconnected it and started to check each injector and the car fired right up upon checking the first injector. Maybe from cranking to check the cold injector or the shop is 55 degrees. ???
Going to wait until tomorrow and try again. I put the car outside where it will go below freezing tonight. I will try it when it is very cold. I will report back. Thanks to all so far!
Going to wait until tomorrow and try again. I put the car outside where it will go below freezing tonight. I will try it when it is very cold. I will report back. Thanks to all so far!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Jarrettsville Maryland
It still cranked about 4 seconds before starting. It was 37 degrees Fahrenheit. I have an OTC fuel injection cleaning kit which I have used on many vehicles with great success. I like to use Seafoam as opposed to the OTC product. Any idea how I can use this to clean the cold start injector? Could I disconnect the wire to the cold start injector while cleaning the system and apply voltage to the cold start injector to let the solution run through that injector as well? If so, how much voltage would be safe to apply to that injector. Is this a good idea, or not?
Last edited by charlie87vette; Feb 17, 2016 at 09:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Jarrettsville Maryland
I did not check them yet hot and cold. I also did not pull the IAC yet to clean it. I thought I would do the maintenance thing, which I will do anyway, with the injector cleaning first and was looking for a way to clean the cold start injector while doing the service. I am trying to do one change at a time to help identify the specific issue. If the PM on the injectors does not take care of it, I will probably go to the IAC next then go through the trouble with your suggestion of pulling all of the wiring from the injectors to check the ohms cold, then reconnect and warm the engine, then pull all of the wiring again and check it warm. I guess I could check the voltage at the cold start injector wiring and supplement it with the power probe or a battery if no one here knows the voltage. Am I going about this logically or should I take a different approach? Trying to keep it simple and methodical.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Jarrettsville Maryland
Correction, I did replace the IAC back when this problem arose a few years ago. I just checked the vehicle records. Sorry for the lack of info. My memory is slipping with age lol!
Also as smooth as this thing runs when it fires off, would the injectors be in question?
Also as smooth as this thing runs when it fires off, would the injectors be in question?
Last edited by charlie87vette; Feb 17, 2016 at 09:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Jarrettsville Maryland
Not sure about age of injectors. Who is Jon and what is FIC? Sorry, new here. Also it started and ran fine before header install and removal of smog stuff.
Last edited by charlie87vette; Feb 17, 2016 at 09:44 PM.
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