C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Molding Strips painted.

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Old Feb 20, 2016 | 12:48 AM
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Default Molding Strips painted.

I just had my '86 repainted after being rear-ended. Despite my telling them not to, the Body shop painted my Molding Strips all around. Does anyone have any ideas as to how to fix this, or am I going to have to try and get them to replace them all? I know it won't be cheap or easy for either them or me either way. Thanks.
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Old Feb 20, 2016 | 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Curveit
I just had my '86 repainted after being rear-ended. Despite my telling them not to, the Body shop painted my Molding Strips all around. Does anyone have any ideas as to how to fix this, or am I going to have to try and get them to replace them all? I know it won't be cheap or easy for either them or me either way. Thanks.
sounds like this is a body shop problem. do you have anything in writing? unfortunately, sometimes the cure is worse than the disease. if you have them remove and refinish to original, they will damn near have to take the car apart. both front and rear fascial need to be removed, the door sections, while having nuts to secure the ends, the center section is double sided tape - most like will be destroyed during removal. the shop would either have to strip the paint, or buy new. either way, this is not a simple task, and then there's the chance they'll screw something else up along the way. being 30 years old, i'd bet that some of the nuts holding the side molding on is frozen on the studs, and may not come off without a fight - most likely destroying the molding in the process. then there's the cost - who's going to pick that up? parts and labor to R&R, i'd take a wild guess at $1500 - could be more. finding OE parts is also not an easy task either. while NOS parts are out there, finding a complete set of new, originals is damn near impossible. repro sets are available, but hot sure of the quality and fit. i'll bet the shop will fight you over this one. they could however, repaint them satin black, but that's pretty much a band-aid, and pretty much defeats the purpose of the black belt molding anyway. I really don't have a good answer here. it's a gray area, a catch 22, and damned if you do, damned don't thing. so, I have to ask, although not right, is it something you can live with? maybe seek some financial compensation from the shop, but getting any would be a long shot! if it was me, and not seeing you car, i'd consider having the shop repaint them satin black, and live with it, or live with it as is, and write it off as another bad experience in life. whatever route you take here, good luck. not sure anyone can give you a correct answer on this one....

edit: just noticed from your avatar, your car is black. just how bad does it look painted? I know it's not right, but living with it as is, may be the best route here -

Last edited by Joe C; Feb 20, 2016 at 04:20 AM.
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Old Feb 20, 2016 | 07:24 AM
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I believe it most important to know what product was used to do the moldings and if the operation was separate from the refinish of the "car color".

This was a refinish by a "chain refinishing vendor" or privately owned collision/refinish center?

You've not mentioned near enough information other than to explain that "replacement" is the only fix. You'll demolish likely all of the moldings attempting the removal and if it was done in "the same operation" as the car color you have very serious issues. Very serious issues.
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Old Feb 20, 2016 | 08:48 AM
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I think the advice given above is spot on. Those molding strips can be very difficult to remove. If the shop simply painted over them without removing them from the car, you will have problems down the road.
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Old Feb 20, 2016 | 11:05 AM
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Leave it the way it is for now......unless the body shop is OK with repairing the issues and guaranteeing the work quality; I agree with the posts above.


The interesting part of this is.....How did that get lost in the shuffle?? Normally on a complete paint job, the estimate will have what work is being completed and the cost associated with each part of it....I would guess, you just agreed to a new "spray paint", no real body work (because if they did a quality body work/spray) that belt line would have come off and they would quickly realize that this material may not hold/wear paint like the fiberglass body.

hmmm.. interesting.....but the good news is.....the car is black anyway by looking at your avatar like mentioned......not as much harm, I guess.
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Old Feb 20, 2016 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 856SPEED
Leave it the way it is for now......unless the body shop is OK with repairing the issues and guaranteeing the work quality; I agree with the posts above.


The interesting part of this is.....How did that get lost in the shuffle?? Normally on a complete paint job, the estimate will have what work is being completed and the cost associated with each part of it....I would guess, you just agreed to a new "spray paint", no real body work (because if they did a quality body work/spray) that belt line would have come off and they would quickly realize that this material may not hold/wear paint like the fiberglass body.

hmmm.. interesting.....but the good news is.....the car is black anyway by looking at your avatar like mentioned......not as much harm, I guess.
Good point. If the car is black and the moulding is black, the only difference is glossy vs matt. Not a deal breaker.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 12:39 AM
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I'm well aware of the work involved with replacing the molding, that's one reason I was hoping someone had a solution that I hadn't heard of. Another reason is that I doubt the shop that did it will go for replacing it, without having to bring a Lawyer into the mix. I really don't think it will hold paint very long, and if another door should hit it, I'm pretty sure it will crack, or worse. Thanks to all for your help...GW

Last edited by Curveit; Feb 21, 2016 at 12:41 AM.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Curveit
I'm well aware of the work involved with replacing the molding, that's one reason I was hoping someone had a solution that I hadn't heard of. Another reason is that I doubt the shop that did it will go for replacing it, without having to bring a Lawyer into the mix. I really don't think it will hold paint very long, and if another door should hit it, I'm pretty sure it will crack, or worse. Thanks to all for your help...GW
You've yet to mention if the molding was done in "car color" or NOT. It's important and also was it done as a separate operation or NOT also important.

If it was done in "car-color" I'd maybe question the entire job. I don't believe that an early C4 can be painted without removing the moldings. PERIOD - a quality refinish requires it - there's no short cuts.

If the shop knew what they were doing and used an adhesion promotor on the moldings well maybe ....

Did you get what you paid for? You've yet to mention the money spent.
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