I have heard different opinoins about Eagle, some good and some bad.

What I am interested in are forged crank, rods and pistons that I am going to use in my future 383.

I would like to hear your opinions about Eagle. Are they good enough?

As always - thanks in advance. :cheers:

 

Anyone?

 

how much power do you plan to make & what rpms are you going to turn? eagles I-beam 5140 rod is good to at least 500hp & could probably take that all day long, short bursts of 600 or so wouldn't really hurt anything either. i've heard from one source there I beam is stronger than the H, it kind of goes against normal thinking so untill more is researched i'm up in the air on that one. eagle doesn't make half bad cranks either but the SCAT's are a better deal.

 

I am planning to make as much horsepowers as I can :D

But little by little... 383, SR, headers, heads. I don't think that I will ever see more than 6500rpm's.

 

a scat 9000 crank and eagle I or H beam rods would be perfect, speed pro's forged piston is also a really good value in pistons, ROSS is probably my choice for the best. wiseco makes a 383 piston that comes with rings also come to think about it. whatever you do MAKE SURE YOU BUY PLASMA MOLY RINGS !!!!! the SR is a great manifold that's kind of grown on me over the years for some of it's benifits. cam wise i'd suggest at least a 219 cam if not bigger, comp has some really cool grind lobes these days & you can basically put a cam togeather however you choose. if you did a combo like pro-action 180cc heads, a 11:1 383 bottom end and a slightly ported superram with something like a 224/230 cam or 230/236 grind with mid 500's lift you would probably wind up around 460-475hp, your centerline and lobe seperation would depend on your transmission and rear gear, actually your .50 duration is also tied to this, how much vac do you need? comp has a really cool tech helpline that would probably be worth a call to finalize your cam choice as well.

 

I don’t know how much vac. I need, but the car is still going to be streetcar, not for everyday driving but at least weekend driving.

11:1 bottom end, is that possible on normal station gas?

I will keep my transmission (A4) but I will change my gears (2,59). I am thinking of 3:73 or 3:54.

Why is it important that I use plasma rings? What is plasma rings?

I am sure that the crank, rods and pistons that you suggested are good, but I would prefer to buy it all in one package, a rotating assembly. Can I find one with the ingredients that you suggested?

Sorry for all ”stupid” questions, but it is all kind of new to me.

BR

:cheers: :cheers:

 

plasma moly is a coating for the ring, it will make it hold up to detonation better, seat easy and just generally offer much better durability than standard cast iron. i used the $79.95 hastings plasma moly rings in my engine. you mentioned wanting a package, well eagle doesn't make pistons but i think they do offer a balanced rotating assembly using someones piston. what you really need to do is contact a good engine builder in your area and start pricing out what you want to do. it's a good idea to balance the engine with the flywheel you have & also the balancer you plan to run, i used a 6-3/4" gm balancer. also do you have any idea what kind of piston you'd like to use? generally hyperutectic pistons offer good value and great milage provided you don't nitrous them to death. 350-400hp engines can be made very reliably with these. if you want to spend a little more a forged piston {like i used} offers even better durability and are quite hard to blow holes in, my rings would fail before my pistons did. cost and piston to cylinder clearance also come in here, you normally can set a hyperutectic piston up a tad tighter than forged. scat makes both cranks and rods as does eagle, i think you'd be happy with either brand personally. i used a split only becuase i found great deals on them off ebay. on to your compression question, 11:1 can be done but only if it's done a certian way, you must minimize quench & a polishing and deburr of the combustion chamber wouldn't hurt either. a zero deck with a .039 gasket & flat top with 4 valve relief piston & D-port head would be somewhere in the 11:1 range depending on how much is decked off the head. with a knock sensor doing it's job and reasonable timing it could run great on 92oct. look at some of the combos people have on here & what they are getting out of them. beach bum & JD383 have really tried and trued combos that sounds very similar to what your wanting to create


[Modified by gtsyellow, 5:13 AM 9/5/2002]


[Modified by gtsyellow, 3:17 PM 9/5/2002]

 

The things to take into consideration growing quickly :)

I am going to talk to my ”mechanic” and perhaps we can sort something out. I have noticed though that there is one opinion per engine builder.

Thanks allot for your long and very instructive answers.

Best regards
:cheers:

 

You will gain 0 going higher than a 3.54.

 

Why is that?

I've been told that by going from 2.59 to 3,73 I will gain 0,5 sec at the strip :confused:

:cheers:

 

well a 3:73 will be faster than a 2:59, what scorp was trying to say...i think...is there's no use in going to a 3:73 over a 3:54 or 3:42, quite a few forum members have tried the 3:73 and had no noticable improvment, the only thing they did is bring up freeway cruise rpm. see if you can find yourself a nice wrecked mid 90's 6spd car with the 3:33-3:54 rear gear & steal the dana 44 along with the gearing you need. you'd kill a few birds with one stone.

 

I have been thinking about that. Problem is though that we don't have allot of wrecked Corvettes here in Sweden.

I have seen that 3,54 is the most common rear gear here on the forum and you are probably right about it (like always). But it would be nice to have someone explaine to me why 3,54 is better than 3,73.

:cheers: :cheers: Have a nice weekend - I will :D :cheers: :cheers: