Have 96 collectors edition, LT1/auto trans.

Have in the recent past replaced the rotors and pads. The brakes work
just fine, BUT I don't know how long the fluid has been in the system.
I would like to bleed the whole system. Other than Right rear, then left
rear, right front and finally left front.

Is there anything else that I should be aware of, other differences or
anything unusual.

Tks Putz

 

Having used every form of bleeding and replacing brake fluid my favored way is to use speed bleeders. It's a one man operation and not that sloppy where you can keep things relativity neat and dry. IMO

The one major item to be aware of is not to run the master dry. Better to refill more times and be safe than to pump air thru the master. Speed bleeders can pull it down real quick.

 

I use speed bleeders also. Then I attach a clear plastic tube over the bleeder. The tube in turn goes into a glass jar. The jar collects the old fluid and you can see if your getting air bubbles and see when the new fluid comes thru the tube. If you don't have speed bleeders, the tube will keep you from sucking up air into the lines it it is submerged in fluid.

Get a fluid with the highest boiling temp you can find. Be sure it is compatible with the ABS system. DON'T let the master get low in fluid....it will suck air and be a nightmare!

 

Harbor freight has a cheap vacuum pump.

 

Big old syringe 50 or better yet 100cc to suck up the old fluid, take reservoir out. Clean it. Clean up any fluid you see on the master cylinder. Replace reservoir. Fill up with new fluid. Make it a 2 man job or use THIS and the adapters. Get it from Jegs or Summit.

 

I don't like buying tool$ that I don't need.

I also don't like to ask for help; I like to get it done, get it done quick and well, myself.

I compress all 4 calipers (pushing most of the fluid back into the reservoir like aklim said, then I suck it out, syphon it out, scoop it out, soak it up...whatever, then clean the reservoir, and refill.

Then I open all 4 bleeders, let gravity bleed until they run clear. I close each bleeder as it runs clear/clean, keeping reservoir topped off.

Once all 4 bleeders have run clear and been closed. I pump the pedal to run the pistons/pads back out to the rotor, simultaneously filling the calipers cylinders w/fresh fluid. Top reservoir and it's done.

 

How do you get the calipers compressed if you do it yourself? I always value your information. You helped me a lot with my 84..

 

C-clamp and old brake pads

 

I really don't like the idea of pushing old brake fluid back into the system - which means through the ABS controller. If the fluid is original - I think you risk pushing some muck into places it will be very hard to remove it from, and it's possible it could block up a small orifice.

My $0.02... 1) Use a cheap turkey baster to remove as much of the old fluid from the Master Cylinder as possible.

2) Refill the Master with new fluid

3) Flush the system - by utilizing your favorite bleeding procedure (pressure bleeding with something like the Motive bleeder, vacuum bleeding, conventional 2 person bleeding - with one person pushing on the pedal and another opening and closing the bleeder valve on each wheel). Continue to work on a wheel until the fluid runs clear. Check the master cylinder often- DO NOT let it run dry!!! Then move on to the next wheel. Count on going through at least a quart of fluid.

 

First off, you should be flushing every so often. IIRC, MB spec is 3 years on coolant and 2 on brake fluid. I do it as an annual ritual or every other year. As such, the fluid is the color it came out of the can usually and clean. Should be reasonably much free.

Secondly, if you push the fluid back, you aren't pushing everything back. Just a little back. After that, you will be flushing the fresh fluid towards the caliper.

 

I agree - brake fluid should be flushed regularly - most Euro makes have recommended this for decades - and if fluid is well maintained - pushing fluid back is probably not an issue ... but OP said he didn't know how long fluid had been in the system...

I've seen some truly horrific looking brake fluid in vehicles that aren't well taken care of - stuff that came out looking more like well used motor oil than brake fluid, so when in doubt about fluid age/condition I wouldn't risk it - it's too easy to just flush the system out first.

 

True. My bad.

Actually, when you sell me a used car, first thing I do is flush all fluids. Brake, power steering, coolant, trans fluid, motor oil, rear end. I change even the washer fluid since I have no clue as to what you put in it. If convenient, I remove the tank. Don't ask me why but I found a dime and a nickle in it once. How or why it got there, IDK.

PS. Every 3 years, I change the blinker fluid and muffler bearings. Makes the car run smoother. Some have reported 10HP gains.

 

Pushing stale brake fluid back upstream risks fouling the ABS. Far better is to open the bleeder before compressing a caliper piston during any brake service (bleeding, pad replacement, etc), so that the fluid will exit the caliper via the bleeder instead of back-flowing upstream.

Live well,

SJW

 

[QUOTE=aklim;1591755422]True. My bad.

Actually, when you sell me a used car, first thing I do is flush all fluids. Brake, power steering, coolant, trans fluid, motor oil, rear end. I change even the washer fluid since I have no clue as to what you put in it. If convenient, I remove the tank. Don't ask me why but I found a dime and a nickle in it once. How or why it got there, IDK.



YEP !!!

 

As a side note, brake fluids are the best when murky. It tells me you didn't do maintenance and just topped up fluids, at best. That allows me to speculate how much crap is in there and how soon it needs a rebuild. Power Steering fluid? See above. Then I offer accordingly.

When I look at a car, I scan for soft codes after I drive it. Also I check compression without then with oil. IF it still passes, I check trans fluid. If it is brand new, I am suspicious that you are doing it to mask a problem. Same with gear lube. After all, who does that kind of service when they are selling or about to sell? Same with coolant.

Had a guy that had every receipt in the glove box including a bulb from NAPA and his bodywork check from the insurance company, etc, etc. About 2 inches of receipts and work done. I didn't bother to try talk him down in that respect since I knew I lost that argument before it started.

 

If somebody came to look at a car I was selling and wanted to do a compression check I'd tell them they could do whatever they want to the car, after the money is in my pocket and the car is in their driveway.

How do you tell the difference in brand new trans fluid and fluid that has maybe 5K on it which for some people might be a years worth of driving?
On a properly maintained coolant system the fluid can look like new after many miles of driving and I always wash out my overflow bottle so everything looks new when I know exactly how many miles are on it.

 

I agree on the gravity bleed method. It takes a little more time, but it gets all air out of the system.

 

I'd pass. AFAIK, used cars are sold "AS IS". When you buy a car from me, I want your DL number on the contract which CLEARLY states "No warranties expressed or implied." or you take a walk. You can bring it to a mechanic we agree on if you like or run your own tests but you are responsible for damage and I watch. Only way I buy your car is at scrap prices since I don't know what the condition is and I don't believe in driving it as a confirmation test. If the car is worth enough, I'd be willing to get a PDI but if all you can do is let me drive it around the block, keep it. Too high a risk and you hold all the cards.

You personally know many people that would do maintenance on a trans if they are selling it unless they are trying to mask something? I don't. See why that makes me suspicious? If you do it faithfully (with receipts) at 20000 and I bought it at 64000, it is a plausible reason. OTOH, if you never did it and it looks fresh, it causes an alarm especially if I see a lot of neglected systems in the car. Too many alarms and I'll pass.

That's YOU. Unfortunately for me, you are a minority, Most of the used cars I have looked at, the brake fluid is black and when you ask about rear end service they look at you blankly and they can't answer simple questions about when they do what service. That tells me you can't read **** in your manual. As such, I don't believe you did regular service. My offer will be lowered accordingly. If you have done all your service with documentation, I would be willing to pay a fair price plus a bit for that extra tip of the odds in my favor. Yes, I have seen 3 such vehicles in the last 30 years and paid their asking price which was book plus a bit.

 

Don't forget the ABS unit behind the driver's seat

 

What have you found to be the best way to flush it? Is a Tech-1 required?

TIA.

Live well,

SJW