Redrod

Installed new timing chain on my 91. Now ready to install new cover and gasket. Research seems to indicate that with oil pan still on need to loosen first four or five bolts on pan. Did that probably five to six on each side but can't get pan to drop! Really don't want to hurt pan gasket but that cover ain't going on without some drop. Would appreciate any suggestions

Joe C

not sure what kind of oil pan gasket you have - original or aftermarket, but if you broke the oil pan gasket seal, you should replace the gasket. personally, i'd go with the fel-pro one piece.

Cliff Harris

I took my oil pan off quite easily and found later that the engine was at TDC. I keep hearing that you need to rotate the crank to get the oil pan off, but mine came off with no problem.

LouisvilleLT4

The oil pan gasket is pretty serious thick rubber, your worries about breaking it or its seal might be misplaced if you can just re-use what you've got afterwards.

Joe C

no to get into a pi$$in' contest with anyone, but a new gasket is cheap insurance against a leak. if OE, we're talking about a 25 year old gasket here. at a minimum, the OP should drop the pan, and clean the mating surfaces, and apply fresh sealant to the front/rear corners. however, even thick rubber gaskets will deteriorate over time when crushed and exposed to oil and thermal cycling, so why take a chance? personally, and my 2-cents, FWIW, I rarely reuse any gasket. if the OP is this far along, I'd go the extra mile, and replace/upgrade to a premium quality one-piece. I HATE OIL LEAKS!

ex-x-fire

I always had to loosen all of them to get it to drop.

Redrod

Really!! That sound a little odd. Wondering that the thought of loosing the first four or five might be "too" conservative. As rigid as pan is the thought of loosing all seems more plausible.

mrodoc

I just tore mine last week. I ordered a Felpro. A good, quality gasket, and it comes with nice plastic guides. One thing, I found I had to also remove my oil filter adapter to get to a bolt. I guess Felpro knows this, because the oil pan gasket comes with a new O-ring for the oil filter adapter. I haven't installed the new one yet. I'm waiting until I install my cam and reinstall the front cover. Gary

Redrod

Is it possible to replace OP gasket with motor still in car?

mrodoc

You must raise the engine. I removed the motor mount bolts.
I placed an 8"x8"x1" piece of wood on a trans jack, placed it on the flat part of the oil pan and raised my engine about 2" . Watch your firewall to make sure your oil pressure sending unit doesn't hit the firewall. I also had to move a part of the wiring harness on the passenger side between the tranny and the fiberglass that was being pinched as the transmission raised with the engine. Just go at it slow and make sure nothing is the way. It's not difficult. My transmission coolant lines are also disconnected, since my radiator is out for a cam swap, but I don't think the transmission lines will get bent, there is some play in them. Some have said 1" is enough to raise the engine but I needed more space. Then I placed hardwood between the two pieces of the motor mounts to keep the engine raised. Then I lowered the trans jack. remove oil filter adapter, and oil pan studs and bolts.

mtwoolford

this is an old shade tree mechanic trick; leave the oil pan and oil pan gasket AS IS.

DO NOT install crankshaft seal in timing chain cover.

Put a bead of rtv in the channel of the bottom of the timing chain cover where it fits over the oil pan gasket

With no oil seal, you will have the extra room to maneuver the timing chain cover, up, over and onto the oil pan gasket.

NOW with the timing chain cover in place and bolted down, install the crankshaft oil seal.

Redrod

thanks old and shady

Redrod

[QUOTE=Redrod;1591873307]Is it possible to replace OP gasket with motor still in car?[/QUOTE

This is a follow up to my own question "can the o/p gasket be replaced with motor in car?" After reading opinions both pro and con I set out on my own. For my situation the pan can be removed with motor still in and still attached to motor mounts. Had to remove the starter, fly wheel cover, oil filter and oil cooler, then rotate the crank to clear counter weights. After all that it doesn't fall out it takes some effort! But it can be done!
That being said I do have a lift which made the whole process much easier.

csthews

[QUOTE=Redrod;1591953422] Good job. You know, GM could have moved the oil filter adapter and starter about 1/8" farther away from the oil pan, and this process would be even easier.

Joe C

that's the way it worked for me - engine at TDC - pan came off without issues. I can guarantee you I did not raise the engine.