OK, so I could not get my '92 started the other day after driving it about a mile and parking it for about 10minutes. Definitely seems to be VATS related since after waiting about an hour I went back and tried again and it started right up and ran fine. I used my other key on that last attempt. Both measure in at 4750 ohms. A little background .... on the first start when I opened the door to get in, the drivers window was partially down, I heard no chimes at all, put the key in the ignition and it started right up. Sfter I turned it off and went in a store for 10 minutes and came back, the drivers window was closed, I opened the door and immediately heard the chimes, put the key in the ignition and nothing. Waited 20 minutes and still nothing ... Came back about 40 minutes later with another key and it started right up ....... Question.... is it the door switch? The ignition key reader in the column ? Something about the window ??? I plan on bypassing the ignition key resistance reader by wiring in the 4750 ohm resistor as many recommend ... but not sure if that it the only issue ..... It sucks being stranded like that ....... Any suggestions ????? Thanks...

 

I'm sure there are vats troubleshooting articles everywhere, including this forum, but do yourself a favor and get a bypass module off ebay and be done with it.

 

This has only happened ONCE?

The "chime" sequence and function you mention seems odd. If the keys are in your hand, no lights on and you open the door I'd think "no chime".

Is this car an MT or AT?

I wouldn't blame VATS and I wouldn't suggest disabling it either - SILLY/FOOLISH. Is there a point where maybe considering it? Maybe

Since you can't "repeat" the condition "if this was a one time incident" - you maybe carry both keys (mark one in some fashion) and if it happens again make a note of what happens to the cluster and DIC at "KEY-ON".

 

Try cleaning the keys it take about four minutes to reset. You can ajust the door switches buy pulling the plunger out and shutting the door.

 

WVZR-1, It has happened more than once, that's why it is getting real frustrating now. It's an AT car and I did make sure it was definitely in the Park position. I did measure the resistor on each of the keys I used, the one that would not start it and the one that did... both are 4750 ohm.
I suspect the door switch because sometimes when I open the door I get no chimes and sometimes I do ..... What is the normal condition ? Chimes or no chimes ? I have been told that the door switch being faulty can cause VATS issues, as well as a problem with the resistor read circuit in the column ...... Any idea which problem is more common ? Thanks....

 

If you have inconsistent courtesy lights, RAP/DAB function or "always have" then I'd start with those diagnostics and the jamb switches. Can you leave radio on, remove key and radio cuts off on it's own? Is the radio factory. If radio is ON you remove the key and then open door does the radio shut off "right now"?

Lights on KEY IN HAND w/door opened you should get CHIME, KEY IN IGNITION opening door you should get CHIME. There's maybe minor year to year differences and I've just mentioned "generally" assumed!

 

I would suspect you have two separate issues here.

You need to back up and get some additional data.

If you have a VATS event, the security light will be lit solidly (not flashing) when the key is turned to ON. If the security light is off when the key is ON, it's not a VATS event. (regardless of door open or closed).

If there is no VATS activated, I would look at the battery cables and starter.

There is only one thing that will trigger VATS and that is if the key resistance is not correct as measured by the CCM. It can be a momentary poor connection when the key is turned to "ON".

If there is a VATS event, usually 3 minutes is enough time to reset VATS. (some say 2, some say 5 minutes and it can vary but is not really measureable).

The door switches will not activate VATS. They will affect the locking of the PKE system and can cause some other strange things if not adjusted properly and making good contact.

The door chimes is a totally separate system and is stand alone only connected to the CCM. It can become intermittent and work at times and sometimes not. But will not affect PKE, VATS or anything else. Usually it's solder connections on the board. I have repaired 2 myself as my car had one bad when I first got it. Lots of work to get to it as the dash pad had to be removed.

 

Pay attention to the security light.

 

Check out vatssucks.com

 

All, Thanks for the input. I will pay close attention to the security light.
I am beginning to think that it is the key resister reader circuit. Rather than try to remove the key assembly I am going to install a bypass resister. This column had been opened up a while ago to repair the multi-switch [ directional ] and maybe there is a faulty connection where that flimsy wire goes into the ignition key housing . But it did seem fine for some time ........ At least from pcolt64's input that sounds like where I need to focus ..... And I had bought that resistor sset from other folks horror stories about VATS ... if I can only find them now ....

 

Mine was just a worn key new key been great since. If the wire on the ignition is loose the bypass will not help.

 

So my potential VATS problem has not been fixed yet. I dont use the car regularly so I can let it sit. But I did some work on it yesterday and I did get it to start fine 4 times, but then I got the issue described in my initial post again. Turn the key to start and nothing happens ... no starter cranking...... Security light did stay on and I pulled a H53 diagnostic code ..... I still have the issue with the courtesy light and chime not coming on at times when I open the drivers door .....
Thinking to buy the VATS bypass plug and the door ajar switch from Eckler's .... install them and hopefully be done with this very frustrating problem !! This vette can not compare to my '71 Chevelle Convertible for ease of servicing and fun to drive factor ..... Tooooo much electronics junk onboard for its own good .....

 

So your security light was steady on, not flashing? Then yes, 100% VATS. I would just bypass it for now, so you can drive it.

 

Easy fix a new key and gently pull out on your door plungers and close the door.

 

If you think a early 90's Corvette is bad try something newer like a 2005 Corvette. Then go to a 2016 Corvette. Its night and day between a early 90's and 16. I'd say we have had more complexity added in the past 10 years than in the previous 100+ in cars.

Unless you plan on Ariving older cars your whole life B:Building a time machine to go back. Then you better plan on C:Paying someone to fix, learning to fix, or leasing vehicles.