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What are you trying to achieve? I would say that if you have a MAF, that is going to be your biggest restriction. We did try it on my motor with the stock system and totally nothing on a dyno and got a couple HP more maybe? I do have SD so that might differ. I did put a K&N and cut out the ***** so it flows better and compared that with nothing.
What are you trying to achieve? I would say that if you have a MAF, that is going to be your biggest restriction. We did try it on my motor with the stock system and totally nothing on a dyno and got a couple HP more maybe? I do have SD so that might differ. I did put a K&N and cut out the ***** so it flows better and compared that with nothing.
I hadnt thought of cutting out the '*****' but might give it a try !
The best cold air intake is the one that actually gets you cold air. You will have to start by cutting the radiator shroud or the front plate. Otherwise, anything is a waste of money.
This is how I have started, havent connected the inside up yet. Since the pic was taken I have painted it the
body color except for the screen..
Nice work. Wish I could have made the incision at the plate instead of the radiator shroud. State of Maryland has given me enough tickets for not having my front plate attached.
what is the best cold air intake for my 92 corvette?
Stock.
The intake for the '92 LT1 is the same intake the LT5 ZR1 uses. If it can handle providing the LT5 with enough air for 400 HP, it is not restricting your 300 HP LT1 one bit. Cold Air intakes on a LT1 offer no power increases over the stock intake. This how it was explained to me when I was thinking about a cold air intake for my '92 LT1. Cosmetics is the only reason for adding a cold air intake.
Last edited by 1stVetteFinally; Apr 4, 2016 at 07:56 AM.
The best cold air intake is the one that actually gets you cold air. You will have to start by cutting the radiator shroud or the front plate. Otherwise, anything is a waste of money.
Given where the inlet has to be, how much colder is it going to be to justify the cost and/or labor?
I have data logged the air temp on my 90 L98 and the air temp in the intake drops as you go down the highway that is with the stock air filter housing.
Given where the inlet has to be, how much colder is it going to be to justify the cost and/or labor?
I bought a used radiator shroud and cut it while it was outside the car. Cost was $35.00. With the cutout, my engine temps have decreased on average by 10-15 degrees. My throttle response and top end have improved because of the cooler air. One negative is the dust that makes its way into the engine bay.
Years ago I installed a temp gauge sender to the airbox (cut lid) and observed the readings in the cockpit while driving.
When the car was not moving the temps started to rise but immediately when car started to move hot air was replaced with outside temp air and the reading dropped. Driving slowly was enough, no highway speeds needed.
So, when you are driving the engine doesn't get heated engine bay air, it sucks outside air. The factory design actually works.
This is how I have started, havent connected the inside up yet. Since the pic was taken I have painted it the
body color except for the screen..
Iv'e seen this method but was unsure on how to accomplish it. How did you put together this setup? from cutting the front plate out to how you ducted the ait intake their.