I’ve decided to rebuild all four of my 1994’s brake calipers myself instead of replacing them with rebuilt units from a vendor. These are standard brakes with good maintenance performed on them through the years. I’m not expecting any real issues. I’ll also be installing SS brake lines

Looking for recommendations for quality rebuild kits that some of you have used in the past and any cool tips that will help the process along.

Thanks! Larry

 

I've used "real" AC Delco kits in the past - when Delco actually made stuff. pretty safe going with the current AC Delco rebuild kits. pricing is in the ballpark with everyone else. the Delco kits are listed as "professional" - most likely, a 3rd party supplied that meets GM specs. i'm not sure if Delco even makes parts anymore, or they're just a marketing company. looks like $36 will do it for 2 each, front and rear kits from rockauto. you might try a GM dealer it see if "genuine GM" kits are available. if they are, most likely a bit more expensive. either way, have fun...

 

I'd shop "LOCAL" only regardless of brand and if OE/GM were still available I'd likely pay the premium. The ACD maybe but before doing them I'd maybe see if the FOMOCO is still available as OE/FOMOCO.

If there was a very old ACD jobber in town maybe check them, if considering after market at all I'd use the OE/GM as reference and try to cross those to other branding and be certain to do "local".

GM # 10104486 ACD 173-511 I believe would have been original.

FOMOCO I believe all Mustang with 2 piston PBR. '94 - '98 (I think PBR did the single PBR also) Actually the only critical aspect might be the piston diameter so single PBR FOMOCO maybe.

Local NAPA - should work

THE REARS

If the rears are working well, not leaking or showing other deficiencies I'd be very tempted to leave "well enough alone". The e-brake actuators can offer up challenges to even the very experienced.

******

There's some very interesting 38mm PBR kits on eBay - maybe? BAER says they have OE PBR and they I believe still use.

 

I can't disagree with this especially if there are no leaks.
Aside from all there is not much braking done with the rears and don’t think there will be any real gain from the effort. In a standard master the brake bias spring directs most of the breaking to the front.

Keeping the fluid clean and keeping an eye on the pads are some of the best things you can do.

 

Add another vote for leaving "well enough" alone with the rear calipers. I've rebuilt a number of front calipers. With one exception - it's quite easy. Remove the caliper, use relatively low pressure compressed air (I like to use a air blow gun with a rubber tip on the caliper inlet fitting) to remove the pistons (NEVER EVER get your hand or fingers anywhere near the pistons when you're using the compressed air - the pistons can come out with enough force to easily break fingers) - use a block of wood to limit how far the pistons can come out of their bores. When they are almost all the way out put away the compressed air and finish the piston removal process by hand. Once the pistons are out - remove the old square seals with a dental pick - but be very careful to not nick the aluminum caliper. Clean everything thoroughly - I like to use "Q-Tips" to clean the seal groove. If the pistons are really ugly - you can try either steel wool or 800 grit watersand paper to clean them up.

I normally use brake fluid as reassembly lube - but whatever you use - thoroughly lube the new square "O"-Rings and put them in the caliper. Lube the pistons and put them in one at a time - BY HAND. The pistons will go in by hand - but sometimes a block of wood pushing on the piston face (rather than you thumbs) makes this part easier. The dust boots go on after the piston is partly (mostly) in the bore - this is the hard part - you'll probably swear a bit -and it'll seem that they won't go on - but they do. Don't get frustrated - if they don't seem to want to go on - just walk away for a few minutes and come back - eventually you will win. Once the new dust seals are in place - you're basically done.

If you want - you can sort of "test" the rebuilt caliper with a pretty thick block of wood and compressed air - again - put the block of wood in the caliper - and using relatively low pressure (say 15 - 20 psi) bring the pistons in contact with the wood block. Then use full pressure (say 90 100 psi) to squeeze the wood - You will probably have air leakage at the caliper inlet - but you shouldn't have air leaking past the caliper seals. If you do - disassemble and reassembe.

I've seen the PBR front caliper rebuild kits for a few bucks each - at that price - get one spare kit - just in case you screw up one of the seals - if you have a spare - it's almost guaranteed you won't need it !!!

 

Thanks for the all the info -very good stuff

The issue with rebuilding the calipers surfaced when I discovered the left rear caliper dragging after I pulled my foot off the brake pedal.

Even with bi-yearly flushes of brake fluids and pad changes, the blue beast has 150K miles on her and its time for the caliper rebuild, that includes the rears.

I'll keep everyone posted as to what rebuild kits I use and I'll take plenty of images to post.

-Stay tuned for the ride.

 

If you have original rubber brake hoses, replace those, too. They can swell and cause a constriction that prevents the pressure from releasing in the caliper.

 

I also had this same problem several years ago! it turned out to be a missing 6mmx16mm set screw in my R/H rear caliper Parking brake Lever adjustment, The set screw is used in order to get the proper air gap between the Lever, and caliper housing. this part was unavailable so I found a replacement 6x10 at Home depot that worked just fine. Anyhow I'm glad that I went through the trouble of a complete rebuild, the brakes work flawless and the Parking brake will hold the Vehicle on my sloped driveway.

The rebuild is tedious and time consuming but way worth the trouble.. make sure you use Blue thread locker on the 6mm set screw when the final adjustment is made.. Oh, and you will need to disable the auto adjuster, and slack the cables for the "Free play" lever adjustment.

The FSM, and instructions that came with the rebuild Kit were difficult to understand, at first. once you get your head wrapped around the procedure it turns out to be quite easy.