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A/C low refrigerant code

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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 04:02 AM
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Default A/C low refrigerant code

So I have some issues with my A/C surprise surprise!

The A/C stopped working and came up with the code 09 low refrigerant. I had to remove the A/C lines anyway to fix a water leak so wasn't to bothered. After fixing the water leak I refitted the A/C lines and took it to have the gas refilled.

After refilling the gas it was still showing the code 09 low refrigerant and the compressor wasn't kicking in. I put power directly to the compressor and the clutch engaged however still no cold air. I disconnected the battery to see if the code would re-set itself however it didn't. I still get the code and no cold A/C??

Any Ideas? I live in Dubai which is literally the dessert so no A/C means no driving
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RetroPerformanceCars

Any Ideas? I live in Dubai which is literally the dessert so no A/C means no driving
If it cranks, runs, moves and has air in the tires I'd say it's to be considered "driveable".

What year is this car? Does it matter? Maybe

Do you have the FSM for this car?

Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 7, 2016 at 05:42 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
If it cranks, runs, moves and has air in the tires I'd say it's to be considered "driveable".

What year is this car? Does it matter? Maybe
Its a 1991. Well yes technically I could drive it without A/C but I would loose half my body weight in sweat and then pass out within 20 minutes.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by RetroPerformanceCars
Its a 1991. Well yes technically I could drive it without A/C but I would loose half my body weight in sweat and then pass out within 20 minutes.
Do you have the FSM - Factory Service Manual? It would certainly help with the diagnostics that you'll likely need to do. I believe that there are maybe multiple codes that don't set the "CEL" but shut down the AC. That's why I asked year. Does the light "flash" on the AC control still? Did it ever or you just checked for codes?

A 12 or 134a conversion? The system was evacuated and charged properly with gauges or what?

Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 7, 2016 at 06:27 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
Do you have the FSM - Factory Service Manual? It would certainly help with the diagnostics that you'll likely need to do. I believe that there are maybe multiple codes that don't set the "CEL" but shut down the AC. That's why I asked year. Does the light "flash" on the AC control still? Did it ever or you just checked for codes?

A 12 or 134a conversion? The system was evacuated and charged properly with gauges or what?
No I don't have a service manual, the guy at the garage filled it with 134A, I have no idea if it has been converted or not. The mechanic used gauges (with no glass). Garages over here are far from professional so i made sure I watched over him, I told him it was still saying low refrigerant pressure but he insisted the pressure was good. I have little experience with A/C systems as I'm from the UK where we get two days of sunshine per year.

The light on the AC control is flashing. The car has always miss fired when the HVAC system is on regardless of whether it is set to cool or heat which I was told was probably a vacuum leak but it has never affected the AC cooling before.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 07:20 AM
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A challenging set of circumstances maybe. Let's look at the charging ports on the car and see what's there.

Which style fittings are on the car? That's not conclusive because the shop could have used adapters to force his BUT it's maybe going to be important I'd think. Pay no attention to the thread specifications on the R12 fittings, I used a very generic image to just get a representation of the two styles, R12 (male threads) and R134a (Quick-disconnect). If the car had been converted it would have been appropriate to have left the R134a fittings there for future service. If done in Dubai I've absolutely no idea of what you've maybe got.

Snapshots from you maybe? If the car was converted and then shipped to Dubai maybe a label under the hood on the AC components maybe.

Name:  2011-11-23_115918_ac_service_fittings.gif
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Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 7, 2016 at 07:28 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
A challenging set of circumstances maybe. Let's look at the charging ports on the car and see what's there.

Which style fittings are on the car? That's not conclusive because the shop could have used adapters to force his BUT it's maybe going to be important I'd think. Pay no attention to the thread specifications on the R12 fittings, I used a very generic image to just get a representation of the two styles, R12 (male threads) and R134a (Quick-disconnect). If the car had been converted it would have been appropriate to have left the R134a fittings there for future service. If done in Dubai I've absolutely no idea of what you've maybe got.

Snapshots from you maybe? If the car was converted and then shipped to Dubai maybe a label under the hood on the AC components maybe.

Attachment 47970361
Thanks for the help.

It has the R12 screw threads. The car was obviously built in the U.S and then at some point made its way to Japan. I bought it from the importers who shipped it from Japan so I am the first owner in Dubai.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 08:30 AM
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Did the recharge guy pull a vacuum on the system first?
If so, how long did he let it sit under vacuum to verify the vacuum held?

I did not know you could properly charge a system to the right pressures unless the compressor cut on during charging. But I may be wrong.

Do you know how much coolant he put in the system (did he use small cans or a large cylinder)?

Last edited by thomastl; Apr 7, 2016 at 08:33 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 08:45 AM
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OP - I'd say you've a challenge!!

If you want/need AC I doubt it would be inexpensive to do properly and to have a functional system. Was it ever a good performing system? How long ago? Had you ever had the system charged previously?
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 09:00 AM
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Did you put new proper seals in it and a dryer? Some other parts need to be changed too along with flushing the system when being changed over. Start doing some research and get a $20 sniffer of ebay. I might be able to help with parts but not till January I will be there not much help right now but keep in mind.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
If it cranks, runs, moves and has air in the tires I'd say it's to be considered "driveable".

What year is this car? Does it matter? Maybe

Do you have the FSM for this car?

Never been to Dubai.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Never been to Dubai.
That car gives a ratsa$$ where it's at - the car the OP says "CAR" is broken! He's there (Dubai) by choice so ................. You're comment maybe irrelevant
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 10:17 AM
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After the battery is disconnected the AC control will reset. After several minutes of run time if a code 09 reappears the system is low on Freon.

Home Freon no gauge check: Jump the blue wire to the compressor with 12V. After several minutes run time the large aluminum suction line that exits the evaporator housing should be cold & have condensate on it. If not the system is low on Freon.

Vacuum loss: If air discharges from the defrost vents only check the vacuum connection @ the drivers side rear of the intake manifold the plastic connector is prone to fail.

Good luck
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Churchkey
After the battery is disconnected the AC control will reset. After several minutes of run time if a code 09 reappears the system is low on Freon.

Home Freon no gauge check: Jump the blue wire to the compressor with 12V. After several minutes run time the large aluminum suction line that exits the evaporator housing should be cold & have condensate on it. If not the system is low on Freon.

Vacuum loss: If air discharges from the defrost vents only check the vacuum connection @ the drivers side rear of the intake manifold the plastic connector is prone to fail.

Good luck
Ok thanks for all the advice. I disconnected the battery and left it for 10 mins but the code was still there when I re connected. I am now not sure that it was filled properly by the "mechanic". I will get it checked somewhere else and then take it from there.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
That car gives a ratsa$$ where it's at - the car the OP says "CAR" is broken! He's there (Dubai) by choice so ................. You're comment maybe irrelevant
Did you read or just need help?

Last edited by antfarmer2; Apr 7, 2016 at 11:11 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 11:19 AM
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OP - I believe I'd try to find a shop that can put a vacuum on the system to "prepare" it for a charge and have them do that. You didn't mention if it ever held a charge and performed well, how long ago and if you had ever had it charged previously. I think those are important. Answer those questions maybe.

I'd think that not knowing and having R12 system fittings you have to anticipate everything required for a R134a conversion and after a shop confirms that there's no "leak failure" then proceed and do the R134a conversion as required. Maybe other system failure but requires a look by someone that actually understands.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 7, 2016 at 11:21 AM.
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