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That was the type of tester I used. I'm not sure what you are referring to. That sounds like it could be my problem, but not sure how to check that out. Would I need new radiator?
Because the tester replaces your radiator cap, it will not detect a leaky cap. Because your system tested O.K. with the tester, then your radiator cap is suspect.
Because the tester replaces your radiator cap, it will not detect a leaky cap. Because your system tested O.K. with the tester, then your radiator cap is suspect.
These really are a pain to burp since the radiator is lower than the engine. Invest in a Lisle "spill free funnel" it will bleed these cars with ease. Part #24680.
I had a very thin split in the rubber seal on the cap. Looked for two years before I found it. Changed cap and no more problems
Mine was blowing the anti freeze into the overflow and then pulling air through the cap back into the radiator. After the radiator got low enough it just pushed air back and forth. Inspect that cap carefully. The recycling will correct the air pocket in two or three recycles. Burp the best you can the process when driving will take care of the rest.
Mike, removing the t-stat, and capping the hole will allow pressurization of the rad and block.
If you have an oil cooler, that needs to be tested, also.
So when you pressure check the coolant system. You need to remove the stat, reinstall the hose. Run and pack coolant to purge the air, and then do a pressure test on the radiator in order to pressure test the radiator AND block?
When I had pressure checked, I never removed the thermostat. I had thought this also pressure checked the block as well.
So when you pressure check the coolant system. You need to remove the stat, reinstall the hose. Run and pack coolant to purge the air, and then do a pressure test on the radiator in order to pressure test the radiator AND block?
When I had pressure checked, I never removed the thermostat. I had thought this also pressure checked the block as well.
When I had pressure checked, I never removed the thermostat. I had thought this also pressure checked the block as well.
It does. The pressure test is a static test, not a flow test. Removing the thermostat is not necessary. When you pump it up, both the block and the radiator will be pressurized whether the thermostat is in place or not.
It does. The pressure test is a static test, not a flow test. Removing the thermostat is not necessary. When you pump it up, both the block and the radiator will be pressurized whether the thermostat is in place or not.
oh yah it does.
there is a trick to burping the system where you drill 3-4 small holes in the t stat flange, it allows the air trapped in the blick to escape before the tstat opens. its great.
because you lost coolant out the overflow, normal....but didnt get it back, not normal...you have voidage in the upper block is my geuess.
you do not need to remove thd tstat to pressure check.
a cap is 8$. buy one, but did u inspect very closely the neck area of the rad for s crack? im talking the very small ring around the neck between the bottom and top seal ov thd cap. the overflow nipple exits the rad in this space.
I had been having weird muffled noises coming from front engine for a few months. Got the scope out and the water pump is very scrapy sounding. Got a mirror and there was no dripping out the weep hole, but did notice a film trail running down from the hole. So tells me coolant had been coming out of that hole at some point. And with the fact I had been secretly loosing a little bit of coolant that had been disappearing. Was afraid of busted head gasket. But now looks to be a water pump going on it's way out.
I'll still do a pressure test and block/leak test. Have done those before but might as well do them before dumping coolant to change pump. I'll probably also remove #5 and #7 spark plugs when doing coolant pressure test just to make sure they aren't filling up with coolant. I do wish I had a scope/camera.
that was the very first job i did on my 85. it was the gaskets for me, sounds like its the pump internals and maybe the gaskets/weephole for u.
i followed the fsm procedure which was good cause i was magnitudes if scale more noob than i am now.
used permatex aviation gasket on the gaskets and the threads of the bolts and it was very easy.
the job itself is quite straightforward but there is a hidden bolt under the ac compressor that is a real behatch.
if you need help start a thread on your repair job, use your phone so u can put pics up (uploadable from the phone) and you will get the help you need.
cheers.
Originally Posted by colter
I had been having weird muffled noises coming from front engine for a few months. Got the scope out and the water pump is very scrapy sounding. Got a mirror and there was no dripping out the weep hole, but did notice a film trail running down from the hole. So tells me coolant had been coming out of that hole at some point. And with the fact I had been secretly loosing a little bit of coolant that had been disappearing. Was afraid of busted head gasket. But now looks to be a water pump going on it's way out.
I'll still do a pressure test and block/leak test. Have done those before but might as well do them before dumping coolant to change pump. I'll probably also remove #5 and #7 spark plugs when doing coolant pressure test just to make sure they aren't filling up with coolant. I do wish I had a scope/camera.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; Apr 24, 2016 at 11:33 AM.
check this connection for cracks that would draw in air during the depressurization (drawing fluid back in from overflow) phase. <br ><br >
Originally Posted by mlm0
Did not remove t-stat. Thanks for info
if the bigger, top, seal is compreimised or if the cap is not tight enough on the neck, the seal will allow air in at the cap. <br ><br >
check the rad housing at the neck of the cap between those two seals on the cap. it could allow sucking in there as well. <br ><br >
Do you have to replace radiator if old or new cap is not fitting tightly or is there something else you can do. Also how can you check before spending money on new radiator
Do you have to replace radiator if old or new cap is not fitting tightly or is there something else you can do. Also how can you check before spending money on new radiator
no u dont. somewhere on the forum i posted pictures of exactly what i did to fix my new stant rad cap so it is nice and tight. ill see if i can find them. cant remember if it was a devited thread or within some of my monster threads.
here is what i did on mine. the new stant i got at autovalue has a crappy seal, made new one, and the tapos are super short, and they were not tight enough. after my mods, its great and you have to actually push down and turn. nice and tight.
87 oem on left. crappy value stant on right. <br ><br >
Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
no u dont. somewhere on the forum i posted pictures of exactly what i did to fix my new stant rad cap so it is nice and tight. ill see if i can find them. cant remember if it was a devited thread or within some of my monster threads.
here is what i did on mine. the new stant i got at autovalue has a crappy seal, made new one, and the tapos are super short, and they were not tight enough. after my mods, its great and you have to actually push down and turn. nice and tight.
87 oem on left. crappy value stant on right. <br ><br >
I ordered one of those spill free systems from Amazon today. Cost 25.00 and free shipping.
Let's see if they are as good as the reviews say they are for getting air out of the coolant system
I ordered one of those spill free systems from Amazon today. Cost 25.00 and free shipping.
Let's see if they are as good as the reviews say they are for getting air out of the coolant system
The system is designed to remove the air itself. 2 to 4 cycles of running and cooling will burp the engine provided the system has no leaks. Save your money
I really enjoying this thread as I have the exact same issue with my '88. Low coolant light on then off, no apparent leaks, overflow bucket empty then full etc.. After some other work I'll be tackling this as well. Appreciate all the input everyone is putting in.
Last edited by david1988c4; Apr 26, 2016 at 10:56 AM.
Burped it several times, but still same problem, low coolant light comes on and off when radiator cap on. I tried using spill proof system, pile of junk.
To day when I tried to start engine it would make loud ckunk each time I hit starter but would not turn over engine. After several times , I ask wife to turn key so I could observe engine, and wouldn't you know it, it started right up. No problem for repeated startings. I will see what it does tomorrow. Could it be coolant leaking into cylinder after it sets over night and causing it to lock up? So far coolant has not overflowed into reserve tank yet. I will see if it sucks any coolant back in as it cools down. None of the test show bad head gasket, but none of this makes any sense
I'm not afraid to try and change both head gaskets, except for valve adjustment and replacing distributer
