l98tpi

Can someone help with my issue? My transmission shift cable broke and I replaced it with the the Pioneer ca-1162. The FSM says put shifter in Neutral and the selector on the transmission in the neutral position. In reading some post through the search function some of you say to put the shifter and selector in Park position and then connect cable to selector.

My main issue is that there is very little feel when moving the shifter between gears. There is not much resistance at all. Is the resistance you should feel come from the transmission or is this something at the shifter that can be adjusted? Like moving the gear from 1st to second you have to really finness it or it will go into third.

The other issue, which I'm not as concerned about, but would like it to work correct is that I cannot get the transmission to go completely into Park. It comes out of Reverse but not completely into Park. I can push the car forward and back, just like being in N.

Any ideas would be appreciated. If I need a new shifter, what would you recommend?

l98tpi

Come on now. I know you guru's are on here and know about these shifters. Please help me save $500. It would be better spent on tires and gas right now. 🤑

THE 383 admiral

It would appear the aftermarket cable is to long? Factory cables. I have always buttoned the cable down with the trans selector in park.
I would leave the selector in park. jack up the car. un-loosen the cable stud nut. make sure. you can fully seat the Lever into park. re-button. jump in the car go through the Gear selector.

Aardwolf

I had to do that when I installed a B&M ratchet shifter a few years back. From what I remember this transmission moves two spaces for park. Maybe the B&M install directions could help with your adjustment. I don't remember what all I did anymore.

Link to directions:
http://files.dpbrands.com/bm/instructions/80842.pdf

THE 383 admiral

I also did not have any issues with the above. Sorry, HORRIFIC B&M ratchet shifter. the B&M cable has a adjustable nut on the housing. to locate / match your selector.

l98tpi

If I have to go to new shifter, I would like to ask what your opinion is on your B&M and you can move it from gear to gear without pulling a release **** correct? Which model did you get?

l98tpi

So you don't like the B&M shifter?

THE 383 admiral

I installed a 80692 in my TA. I had a full manual valve body setup. Biggest mistake EVER. I would never Install one again. I also would not purchase a auto. Vette. but that is my choice. PS. It's not very Difficult. But a HUGE PITA. you need to cut your OE reverse safety switch wires. Purchase a relay. and re-wire. and dial in the micro switches.

l98tpi

What was the issue? I have a RPM Transmission with full manual and love it. It works great for what I do. And I never had issue until I broke my original cable. But would like your feedback on the shifter.

THE 383 admiral

to flimsy. Slow to ratchet to the next gear. PITA to pretend you have a manual. Lifting up the Reverse lock out. OD - Drive. I would rather leave the OE selector. The full manual VB was great. shifted VERY hard. I made enough power 2nd - 3rd deteriorated. then lost OD.

Aardwolf

I've had three of the B&M (80842) pro ratchets in different combos and they have worked great for me. I got them to use the adjustable rpm switch with electric selenoid for automatic drag racing shifts. That setup would also help with never over revving on track or autox. I went this route after getting sick of messing with governor weights when I changed intake or CID etc.

I also added manual push buttons for shifting on the wheel when I did more road course racing than drag. I've always used Transgo manual shift kits instead of paying extra for a manual valve body.

If there was any shift speed lost it would have shown up on my time slips and it didn't. The model I used was different than the reviews above though.

Kevova

Since you has full manual automatic, I would look for "Gated" shifter. I'm not sure what is out there that will fit console. Winter's shifter if console is unimportant.

Aardwolf

The stock shifter can have gates cut into it.

l98tpi

Thanks all that have responded. I understand now on the shifters. I would definitely would be looking for a gated shifter. The ratchet shifter is going to cost time. I need to be able to make shifts as quick as possible; meaning going from 2nd to 1st and back to 2nd.

We got onto he topic of aftermarket shifters, back to the stock shifter and cable. Where does the tension when moving from gear to gear come from? Is it at the transmission or the shifter? And Aardwolf, how would you cut gates into the stock shifter?

THE 383 admiral

From the trans linkage. It's a arm made of spring steel. With a rollor tip. That keeps the cam teeth P,R,OD,3,2,1 locked in place.

THE 383 admiral

Aardwolf

The stock one has gates but not for 1st. I always thought that was so weird. If you take it apart you can see where to add a notch.

If you're shifting so much that the time for the ratchet to go back to the up position slows you down I think you will quickly wear out your trans. Are you clear on how they work? Ratchet is nice to never shift to far, accidentally way over revving by going down two gears etc.

l98tpi

I understand the ratchet shifter now after watching some YouTube vids. I may go that route if my attempt to re adjust my cable does not work.

Aardwolf

Good luck! :cheers

yedister

http://www.kilduffmachine.com/

Got my custom shifter from this guy