best first mod
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
TE=ghoastrider1;1592113629]I have taken my 86, bone stock, to the drags here at Brownsburg/Indianapolis. 1/4 mile. Its where the US Nationals are held. Your car will turn between 14.5 and 14.0 at around 97 mph or so. That's with the Alum heads, not sure about the iron headed ones but should be close. If you give any throttle and hold the brake at the start line, your gonna lose. Its just spins the tires to much, so take off is best at off idle. Sticky tires will help.. a lot. Put it in drive and leave it there., not overdrive. If you see the light turn green, you have already lost. Go to the strip, its a blast. Show us your time slips and pictures always are gladly seen.[/QUOTE]
I used to race my C6 2005,bought it new,I had a bigger cam installed bigger injectors 410 rearStreet slicks ran11.30 broke 1 axle after an other split the the rear down the center and gave up,then I got rid of the car,want to start racing again,here I go:trainwreck
I used to race my C6 2005,bought it new,I had a bigger cam installed bigger injectors 410 rearStreet slicks ran11.30 broke 1 axle after an other split the the rear down the center and gave up,then I got rid of the car,want to start racing again,here I go:trainwreck
Last edited by HOT_ON_UR_HEELS; Apr 30, 2016 at 04:36 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
If the car is going to go fast (14's and 95-98 MPH) it's going to have to stop too 
So one of the first things is to check the condition of the brakes. I would go with new pads like Hawk HPS, new stock rotors, a complete flush of the brake fluid (a good DOT3 fluid will work fine, and probably replace the hoses at the calipers.
Check the cooling system for any signs of leaks or cracked, soft radiator hoses. Probably can't hurt to do a flush and refill with a 50/50 mix of green coolant and distilled water.
I agree that longtube headers and true duals will be a big help with adding power. That can eat up a good part of your budget but it does depend on what headers you go with. I have used Hedman Elites and they are not that expensive and can be a DIY install. Most muffler shops will not remove working cats, so you have to do that part yourself and then get the car to a muffler shop to install the exhaust. Go with 2-1/2" pipe and DynoMax Ultraflo muflers.
So one of the first things is to check the condition of the brakes. I would go with new pads like Hawk HPS, new stock rotors, a complete flush of the brake fluid (a good DOT3 fluid will work fine, and probably replace the hoses at the calipers.Check the cooling system for any signs of leaks or cracked, soft radiator hoses. Probably can't hurt to do a flush and refill with a 50/50 mix of green coolant and distilled water.
I agree that longtube headers and true duals will be a big help with adding power. That can eat up a good part of your budget but it does depend on what headers you go with. I have used Hedman Elites and they are not that expensive and can be a DIY install. Most muffler shops will not remove working cats, so you have to do that part yourself and then get the car to a muffler shop to install the exhaust. Go with 2-1/2" pipe and DynoMax Ultraflo muflers.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
If the car is going to go fast (14's and 95-98 MPH) it's going to have to stop too So one of the first things is to check the condition of the brakes. I would go with new pads like Hawk HPS, new stock rotors, a complete flush of the brake fluid (a good DOT3 fluid will work fine, and probably replace the hoses at the calipers.
Check the cooling system for any signs of leaks or cracked, soft radiator hoses. Probably can't hurt to do a flush and refill with a 50/50 mix of green coolant and distilled water.
I agree that longtube headers and true duals will be a big help with adding power. That can eat up a good part of your budget but it does depend on what headers you go with. I have used Hedman Elites and they are not that expensive and can be a DIY install. Most muffler shops will not remove working cats, so you have to do that part yourself and then get the car to a muffler shop to install the exhaust. Go with 2-1/2" pipe and DynoMax Ultraflo muflers.
So one of the first things is to check the condition of the brakes. I would go with new pads like Hawk HPS, new stock rotors, a complete flush of the brake fluid (a good DOT3 fluid will work fine, and probably replace the hoses at the calipers.Check the cooling system for any signs of leaks or cracked, soft radiator hoses. Probably can't hurt to do a flush and refill with a 50/50 mix of green coolant and distilled water.
I agree that longtube headers and true duals will be a big help with adding power. That can eat up a good part of your budget but it does depend on what headers you go with. I have used Hedman Elites and they are not that expensive and can be a DIY install. Most muffler shops will not remove working cats, so you have to do that part yourself and then get the car to a muffler shop to install the exhaust. Go with 2-1/2" pipe and DynoMax Ultraflo muflers.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,745
Likes: 275
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
No. 1 long tube headers
20 years ago when my 85 was stock standard she did 14.4 sec quarters.
A week later back with long tube headers and she went to 13.7 sec quarters, a few weeks later cold air intake mod, adjustable fuel pressure regulator adjusted timing set fuel pressure to 50 psi and she went to 13.2 quarters.
Just remember your auto trans wont like it, expect a rebuild in the near future depending on how hard you push her..
She ran great like that for many years till I went to a supercharger.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,745
Likes: 275
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Yes
The early turbo 700 trans is quite fragile, especially one with 100.000 miles.
I have killed many transmissions with just those mods, now I have a supercharger and that blows even the best highly modified transmissions.
The 89 has many improvements but I have gone through 2 of them too.
I have to revise my driving habits, fishing line to right big toe and left ******** seems to work fine ..
The early turbo 700 trans is quite fragile, especially one with 100.000 miles.
I have killed many transmissions with just those mods, now I have a supercharger and that blows even the best highly modified transmissions.
The 89 has many improvements but I have gone through 2 of them too.
I have to revise my driving habits, fishing line to right big toe and left ******** seems to work fine ..
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Hi
No. 1 long tube headers
20 years ago when my 85 was stock standard she did 14.4 sec quarters.
A week later back with long tube headers and she went to 13.7 sec quarters, a few weeks later cold air intake mod, adjustable fuel pressure regulator adjusted timing set fuel pressure to 50 psi and she went to 13.2 quarters.
Just remember your auto trans wont like it, expect a rebuild in the near future depending on how hard you push her..
She ran great like that for many years till I went to a supercharger.
No. 1 long tube headers
20 years ago when my 85 was stock standard she did 14.4 sec quarters.
A week later back with long tube headers and she went to 13.7 sec quarters, a few weeks later cold air intake mod, adjustable fuel pressure regulator adjusted timing set fuel pressure to 50 psi and she went to 13.2 quarters.
Just remember your auto trans wont like it, expect a rebuild in the near future depending on how hard you push her..
She ran great like that for many years till I went to a supercharger.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 112
From: Michigan
Yah one of the 1st things I did was, new fluid/filter, better pan and add-on cooler. My 86 has 90k so I did a ton of maintenance like u-joints and tune up, just figured he'd want a power mod like most and not all the boring normal stuff. I still say if you got 2k for power heads n cam would be the best bang for buck and do the easy stuff later, other than maintenance of course.
edit: A add-on cooler would be a must for a drag car and if your gonna really hot-lap it, I'd get a cheap $20 fan off ebay mount it to the cooler and flip it on between runs. Your trans & wallet will thx you.
edit: A add-on cooler would be a must for a drag car and if your gonna really hot-lap it, I'd get a cheap $20 fan off ebay mount it to the cooler and flip it on between runs. Your trans & wallet will thx you.
Last edited by BOOT77; May 1, 2016 at 10:37 PM.
Max G’s
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,751
Likes: 78
From: Monroe OH
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Cut air filter lid(as suggested already), 3 piece under drive pulley set, transmission shift kit, eliminate the pre cats in front y pipe and either remove or replace main cat, install new rear y section or just new performance mufflers, and get some good drag radials.
When going to run on the track put a little more air pressure in rear tires than the front tires.
When going to run on the track put a little more air pressure in rear tires than the front tires.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 112
From: Michigan
Depends how you wanna go with the cam 1st, lots of good threads bout heads on here. Your 86 is a flat tappet and you can get them for less than a retro-roller if you comfortable with breaking it in. That would free up more for heads, not sure if you said your factory iron or alum heads. The iron heads are worse and it'd be more of an improvement.
This is assuming your doing the work yourself.
This is assuming your doing the work yourself.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 225
Likes: 1
From: hanceville al
There are lots of small free or cheap things you can do to add a little more power, I would invest my money in a complete tune up first. This next statement is not intended to be a smart mouth but I would save my money and super charge it. I have spent quite a bit on my L-98 and could have gotten equal performance if I just SC the car from the beginning.
Last edited by dgantt; May 2, 2016 at 12:10 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 112
From: Michigan
There are lots of small free or cheap things you can do to add a little more power, I would invest my money in a complete tune up first. This next statement is not intended to be a smart mouth but I would save my money and super charge it. I have spent quite a bit on my L-98 and could have gotten equal performance if I just SC the car from the beginning.
Pro
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 635
Likes: 6
From: New Jersey
I have an 86 also. I've done everything and more that everyone suggested. But my best mods was putting in a LS.After having a LS car it's hard to you back to a SBC with a OBD-1 PCM I'm not trying to be a wise a$$ but it is the best way to go.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 112
From: Michigan
Around me LS are still kinda high, I read just the other day someone n cali saying a bbc is like $500 round there, can't get a 305 for that much here LOL So if you can get a good price on an LS you might be better off in the long run. From what I've read you need to do your homework on LS because of the changes over the years or it could cost you a lot. I've read a few articles and plan to boost one someday, but I'll stick with my gen1's for now.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 20,974
Likes: 261
Are you doing the labor?
Is your car 3.07 gears?
For $2k you can get good heads, cam, headers, and maybe a EFi converted carb intake.
If you put a better stall which some use the old s10 stall and get like 2800 rpm out of it for $150.
I think it is doable these days if you can get the labor handled. The trans should be expected to break eventually who knows when.
I think you can be close to 500hp with those above mods.
That said, it's an old car and doing this stuff will bring out all kinds of gremlins.
Could be cheaper to get a built car for 5-7k and enjoy someone else's loss.
Is your car 3.07 gears?
For $2k you can get good heads, cam, headers, and maybe a EFi converted carb intake.
If you put a better stall which some use the old s10 stall and get like 2800 rpm out of it for $150.
I think it is doable these days if you can get the labor handled. The trans should be expected to break eventually who knows when.
I think you can be close to 500hp with those above mods.
That said, it's an old car and doing this stuff will bring out all kinds of gremlins.
Could be cheaper to get a built car for 5-7k and enjoy someone else's loss.