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Measure the distance from the center of the front wheels to the center of the rears with the steering straight ahead and the car on level pavement. Is it close to equal side to side?? If so and if the car tracks straight without pulling to one side you are probably OK. A collision shop could put it on a frame machine and check if its out of spec for not a whole lot of cash. If its going to be a driver or a racer and can be aligned to spec you are also probably OK. The rear end bat wing mounts on rubber bushings that wear, as do the trailing arm bushings and the "A" arm bushings and the body mounts. After a 100K miles or so things get sloppy.
Thanks, I will get some measurements tonight. It tracks a little weird, but my spindle control rod bushings were basically gone, so I need to get it back on the road and test drive it. I will do that and see how it drives.
I'll be a monkey's uncle. The wheelbase is off by 1/2"! It's exactly 96 on the driver side and 96.5 on the passenger side.
Is this something that can (or should) be repaired? Do all the body panels have to come off? Please chime in if you have experience with this sort of thing.
P.S. I have notice the car "Crabbing" when I drive it, as if it's going down the road at an angle. Now I know why.
It's advertised @ 96.2 and if you don't have a tram gauge you're not going to be able to measure accurately anyway. A tape measure isn't going to get anything but "close".
I didn't see any damage back there which makes me think it must be somewhere forward of the fuel tank.
I realize my measurement with a measuring tape won't be 100% precise but I measured twice and 1/2" is a pretty noticeable difference.
What other frame locations should I check for damage?
Dimensions are all in the FSM and you'll need precise measuring devices to check. A "Tram Gauge" for precise measuring. If the damage were significant then maybe a tape but it would need to be used by someone that understood measuring an automotive chassis.
If you are willing to invest 150-250 maybe less depending on area. Most body shops would do a "Setup and Measure" with a laser frame measuring system.( Modern tram gauge set up) the results would show what, where, and how much frame is tweaked. Then you could decide what to do. You could price shop by calling around, but you do want a quality shop to do it. Taking off rocker trim yourself could save a few bucks since jacks maybe attached to pinch welds.
I'm going to test drive it thoroughly this weekend and see if it still tracks funny after the new bushings. If so, the next thing I'll do is take it down to the collision shop.
OP said the rear trailing arm bushings were bad... that could account for some of the measured wheelbase difference. At this point, I'd want a frame/alignment shop to check it out. It still could be bushings (trailing arm, batwing) as the issue.
OP - What year is this car? There are dimensions that you could check. A friend fashioned a "tram gauge" and it actually worked quite well for measuring, crude but it certainly did work. I've used similar for measurements but not on a car. I have access to a full set of hang-on.
Do you have the FSM?
I don't believe you need the services of a collision shop - at least not yet! Bushing wear should not be sufficient to negate what can be measured.
It's really a small diff, bushings could be out a little on each side and one is over and other under. I'd replace more bushings or get measurements from a few other c4's maybe before you go to a shop.