C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Brake Pressure light

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Old May 2, 2016 | 07:47 PM
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Hey all ! Yeah its me again. Dose any one know about BRAKE PRESSURE LIGHTS. Here's the scoop. Had leaky master cylinder, replaced with new one, bench bled before installation, bled system on car, worked fine but had brake pressure light on that wasn't before. Took car to mechanic he bled brakes comes back light off. A couple days later light came on and stayed. Do you think it still has air in system, this is what I'm leaning toward. ?????
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Old May 2, 2016 | 09:07 PM
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It means there is less pressure in one side than the other. There is a little switch in the M/C that rides in a bore between sections. If it moves out of the middle the light comes on. It's either a leak, there is still air in the system, or the M/C is bad. How's the pedal feel?
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Old May 2, 2016 | 09:20 PM
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A very hard jab at your brakes may correct your situation. Make sure the reservoir(s) are full and jab the brakes very hard. If reservoir is significantly low then you've still got issues.

Ask the shop how the corrected it. Did they pull the switch and plunger and reposition the internals?
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Old May 2, 2016 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
A very hard jab at your brakes may correct your situation. Make sure the reservoir(s) are full and jab the brakes very hard. If reservoir is significantly low then you've still got issues.

Ask the shop how the corrected it. Did they pull the switch and plunger and reposition the internals?


Remove check the switch check the spring assembly is not corroded and refit the warning light switch, if it still shows there is a balance issue bleed the brakes again.
Air is hard to remove from the ABS pump, try several hard stops engaging the abs pump. That usually helps with clearing air in the abs pump and restores a firm pedal.

Be careful with the switch its plastic and breaks easily, they are getting harder to find.


Last edited by gerardvg; May 2, 2016 at 09:45 PM.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 11:09 PM
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Yeah Thanks guys that's what I figured too was still has air in the line. It was a few days after it came back from the shop and a couple of road trips when it came back on. So I figured it had just enough time to release out some more air. I'm going to bleed again soon and will see where that goes. Just wanted to know if any body else had, had the same problem and after reading several threads, I see it must be some kind of norm, oh well its back to the bleed, again thanks for the input. Pete
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Old May 3, 2016 | 04:19 AM
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It doesn't men bleed again BUT it's certainly possible. What brand was your master cylinder? Ask the shop what they did to turn it off the last time. Post brand of master and maybe mention what the shop tells you was done to turn light off. If the master is full of fluid a very hard pedal apply first.
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Old May 5, 2016 | 10:48 PM
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Hey Guys! So WVZR-1 suggested that I post what brand of master I used on my brake job and what the Mechanic did to shut off brake light. SO here it is and what's going to come down. The master is a 100% new Brake Best dual reservoir master and all the mechanic did was to just a regular bleed of the system, I talked to him today and I will take it back to him next week and he will do deep bleed ( flush ). When I bought this car, the old mater was the single reservoir and it had very little fluid in it. Don't know how long it had a bad master on it. I know it had set fore sale for at least a year, when I bought the car; the people who owned it didn't drive it much and left it set for quite awhile. Well that's it for now; I guess we will see what the future brings next week. Keepem Rollin , Pete
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