Can an ICM cause that? I think the PO replaced since it looks new and kinda wonder if he threw a cheap one in it.
FIC Injectors
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From: Mishawaka Indiana
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From: Hartford WI
I had a 91 F-body and it lit up soon as you twitched the key. Someone we autocrossed with had a slow start. Switched sensors and chip, no joy. Dialed the fuel pressure from 44 all the way to 50 but no joy either.
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From: Reno Nevada
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From: Hartford WI
Does the ICM say GM or ACCEL or something on it? You can try getting another one but if it doesn't work, you can keep it as a spare. I really don't like to do that but it won't hurt so much if you are going to use it.
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From: Mishawaka Indiana
Aklim; Plugs and wires are done. Opti was replaced last early spring. Plugs have a good burn pattern. Never checked the compression but I don't think I have that gauge anymore, would have to get a new one. Either way, the motor is strong without a doubt and compression should be good. For some reason the tires are making a barking noise when I stomp on the gas pedal that sounds like a mating call for a beagle. JK
Overall, it seems to run better with the 24s and happy I replaced my old ones.
Now for the Plasti Dip. It looks good actually and seems to be durable. I need to redo it since I should have sanded the part smooth, everything shows through the dip. I would recommend it if you want that rubber feel like factory.
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From: Hartford WI
Yeah not much under it. Gonna have it tested tomorrow. I will put some silver paste I have left over from my electronics days to this or the new one if I need to replace it.
Never checked the compression but I don't think I have that gauge anymore, would have to get a new one. Either way, the motor is strong without a doubt and compression should be good.
Overall, it seems to run better with the 24s and happy I replaced my old ones.
Now for the Plasti Dip. It looks good actually and seems to be durable. I need to redo it since I should have sanded the part smooth, everything shows through the dip. I would recommend it if you want that rubber feel like factory.
Never checked the compression but I don't think I have that gauge anymore, would have to get a new one. Either way, the motor is strong without a doubt and compression should be good.
Overall, it seems to run better with the 24s and happy I replaced my old ones.
Now for the Plasti Dip. It looks good actually and seems to be durable. I need to redo it since I should have sanded the part smooth, everything shows through the dip. I would recommend it if you want that rubber feel like factory.
I believe you can rent one from Autozone. I just rented some noid lights. I paid the $25 it would cost them to replace the set and have 60 days to bring it back. I had a strong motor with good compression. Just that when I took the heads off, I found that the valve had hit and broke a chunk off the piston and the walls were scratched up. It didn't feel bad at all which is why I place little faith in the butt-o-meter.
Wish I could have played around with it and see if it works better with the old ones at higher pressure to simulate a bigger injector since you have both sets on hand.
Sorry but rubber tends to lose some sensation so I'm glad I haven't had to use them for a very long time.
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Doh. I kept confusing the F-body and the vette. There was a 3rd gen F-body using an L98 engine in 92 and they switched to LT1 in 93. Vettes made the switch in 92. Just been looking a bit on the 3rd Gen stuff because I switched to a small cap distributor like the F-body and had issues and my manual doesn't have the small cap distributor. My ICM in the distributor didn't have much paste either although I deliberately gooped it up so it would squeeze out and I wipe it up after tightening it. So maybe that is what happened?
I believe you can rent one from Autozone. I just rented some noid lights. I paid the $25 it would cost them to replace the set and have 60 days to bring it back. I had a strong motor with good compression. Just that when I took the heads off, I found that the valve had hit and broke a chunk off the piston and the walls were scratched up. It didn't feel bad at all which is why I place little faith in the butt-o-meter.
Wish I could have played around with it and see if it works better with the old ones at higher pressure to simulate a bigger injector since you have both sets on hand.
Sorry but rubber tends to lose some sensation so I'm glad I haven't had to use them for a very long time.
I believe you can rent one from Autozone. I just rented some noid lights. I paid the $25 it would cost them to replace the set and have 60 days to bring it back. I had a strong motor with good compression. Just that when I took the heads off, I found that the valve had hit and broke a chunk off the piston and the walls were scratched up. It didn't feel bad at all which is why I place little faith in the butt-o-meter.
Wish I could have played around with it and see if it works better with the old ones at higher pressure to simulate a bigger injector since you have both sets on hand.
Sorry but rubber tends to lose some sensation so I'm glad I haven't had to use them for a very long time.
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on my 92, for the engine control you do not need the Tech-1 to reset the TPS idle value. here's my take on the shop manual's procedure. i start the engine with the throttle slightly open. this flares the engine to hopefully about 2-3K rpm. i keep it at that speed for about 5 seconds, then let go of the throttle. once the engine speed settles down to idle, i wait another 5 seconds and shut down completely. wait 10 seconds, and start the engine again. it should be idling normally now.as for the TPS reset for the ASR system, i have not found an alternate way of letting the computer learn the idle TPS value other than using the Tech-1.
Not a tuner but found this for you. Ant
This might help it learn faster.
Not a tuner but found this for you. Ant
This might help it learn faster.
Last edited by antfarmer2; May 13, 2016 at 09:59 PM.
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IDK. IF you take a commission, perk or whatever it is, doesn't that make you a salesman? I tend to take their pitch with a little salt. Say last week at the Ford lot, you find a salesman that told you that the best car is a Ford. Say this week you see him selling Honda and he says the same stuff. Don't you think that shoots the credibility down just a hair?
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Oh man that sucks. I have never heard of an ignition control module causing a long crank. That sounds like urban legend too me. I was skeptical about injectors causing the long crank right from the start. It sounds to me like you should verify the coolant temp sensor is functioning properly and then verify all the electrical connections at every ground point and every positive junction block. That's what I would do next. Do you know how to perform a voltage drop test ??? Did you ever get to the bottom of the fuel pressure bleed down issue ??
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From: Lansing MI
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From: Lansing MI
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From: Hartford WI
You can call it salesman or anything you want, but asking for commission when you add value to something is normal. Not asking for commission when you add value is cheating yourself. He should be asking for commission if he's adding to the sales revenue. I would be suspicious if he didn't. I don't know why he hasn't just said it if that's what happened. I would.
Put another way, which opinion, if you didn't know either party, would you be more willing to accept? A paid spokesperson or a guy who has no allegiances to anyone, all things being equal?
Drifting
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I'm not against him asking for a commission. In fact with all his evasiveness about answering the question directly instead of some carefully crafted answer to make it look like he isn't, I suspect it. However, once you openly admit you are receiving a commission, kickback, spiff or whatever it is you want to call it, the doubt of neutrality comes into play. So it begs the question "Are you recommending brand X because it is the best or because it benefits your pocketbook the most."
Put another way, which opinion, if you didn't know either party, would you be more willing to accept? A paid spokesperson or a guy who has no allegiances to anyone, all things being equal?
Put another way, which opinion, if you didn't know either party, would you be more willing to accept? A paid spokesperson or a guy who has no allegiances to anyone, all things being equal?
Have you done the math yet? No, I'd rather spread BS than address the thread topic to realize he's right.
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While he is very able to hunt every FI post down and give it his 2 cents worth calling Jon a crook for selling inadequate products, ever wonder why he didn't dare to call Jon a liar for mentioning the commission? Ever see how each and every answer is so well crafted that it can put him in the best light but still has wiggle room? Could be they offered him a number he didn't like and if so, well, he can honestly say as he did "I didn't receive a check". It's true and gives wiggle room. Look at how Bill Clinton phrased it.