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I just did the brakes today on my 1985 and now I have a problem. I changed the rotors, pads, and hoses and bled the system. I took the car on a test drive and the brakes immediately had greater travel and were not as effective. The brake light also came on and would go off after I pumped them a couple times. No matter if I pumped them or not they weren't as effective and the brake light eventually would come back on.
My thought is that there's still air in the line but I bled the system twice with the 2 person system. Am I on the right track with bleeding or am I missing something else. Any thoughts would be much appreciated since I'm basically out of commission now.
Sounds like air to me and top off the master. I like the vacuum way one person and you know the inside guy did not let go to soon. Cheap at harbor freight.
+1, sounds like there is still air in the system. Will have to assume you bleed lines in the correct sequence.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I believe I did the correct sequence. Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. I did them twice in that sequence, once to get the air out, and once to double check. I guess I didn't do it right.
Antfarmer, I have one of the vacuum bleeders, specifically this one... http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-69328.html I bought that to do the clutch master and slave cylinders but didn't need it since we were able to bleed that out using the 2 person method. That's the long way of saying I don't know how to use it! Any tricks or suggestions for it?
Thanks again all. Hopefully I'll be able to find time to get back out there this weekend.
I have always wondered about vacuum bleeders. They suck the old fluid out and if you get carried away, the reservoir gets empty and you have issues. I saw how they did it with my MB. Suck the fluid out of the reservoir, top it up and attach the device on and hook up shop air. Go to the bleeder screw, turn it open till it runs clean. Tighten it and move to the next one. Obviously it has to be pumped every so often with this one. It has a 2 qt capacity so.....
Just watch for bubbles and have the other person if you have one keep it full.
Ok, so this will probably sound like a dumb question, but can there be any bubbles coming out at all? When we were bleeding the system there were really small bubbles that came out every now and then. I mean small like you could barely see them in the line. I thought those were just getting into the line from the bottom of the bleeder valve when I'd move it around to bleed the line.
Maybe I was wrong about the little bubbles? Or maybe there was air trapped somewhere else in the system? Do you have to jack the car up on an angle or anything crazy to get the air to go down to the bleed valves? Sorry if these questions are dumb. I've just never done this project before and am not sure what to look for. Thanks again for all the help.
First, no, there should not be any air bubbles in the fluid. Air is compressible, you were seeing it still coming from the bleeders and there is your problem. Keep going until the fluid is clear and un-aerated.
Second, the "right order" doesn't matter. I don't believe that it matters at all, and know that it doesn't matter when all you did was brake hoses and you're really just bleeding out the calipers/hoses.
Last, no need to tilt the car any way. You want the reservoir higher than the calipers, so as long as the car is lever, it should be just fine.
I like the gravity method. Open all the bleeders, let 'em run until there is no air bubbles at all...close and you're done. One person, all 4 at a time...way to get it done fast and right. Some times I'll tap on the calipers to encourage any bubbles "stuck" to the caliper bores/walls etc., to free and rise to the top, and out the bleeder.
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Last edited by Tom400CFI; May 14, 2016 at 07:48 PM.
Just did my final line today, ad I saw small small bubbles. My bldr bottle has clear lines, I just did another half a resivoir and no more bubles youy have to clear the line with totally new fluid which is what I was doing anyways. And if the resiviour rund down too far you will have to clear that line all the way again so keep it topped of or at least 1/2 full.
Good Luck
Somethings wrong here with the typing
I did the fronts and then took the car out (didn't have to get the car up in the air and take the wheels off for those). Seemed better but still soft and the light would come on again. Oh, one other thing, at least one of the wheels on the passenger side would completely lock up on hard braking so I guess the air problem is on the driver's side.
Just finished the backs again but am now keeping an eye on my kids so I can't test yet. I'll probably do the fronts again one more time just to be safe before I test again. I'll report back soon.
Last edited by DarkObsession; May 15, 2016 at 11:51 AM.
I did the fronts and then took the car out (didn't have to get the car up in the air and take the wheels off for those). Seemed better but still soft and the light would come on again. Oh, one other thing, at least one of the wheels on the passenger side would completely lock up on hard braking so I guess the air problem is on the driver's side.
Just finished the backs again but am now keeping an eye on my kids so I can't test yet. I'll probably do the fronts again one more time just to be safe before I test again. I'll report back soon.
Try bleeding each hose where it connects to the steel brake line. Have your assistant pump the pedal and hold it down, then just loosen the fitting. If you detect the presence of air then continue until there's none and then rebleed at the caliper. Personally I don't love the idea of vaccum bleeding or gravity bleeding. There too many ways to trap air. If all else fails take it somwhere that has a pressure bleeder and have them do it.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; May 15, 2016 at 11:58 AM.
I bought a Motive Products brake flusher. It pushes fluid into the reservoir and since it is under pressure, there is no bubbles really. It has an adapter to connect the tank full of fluid to the reservoir. Once the system is under pressure, you open the bleeder screw and the dirty stuff comes out. Shut it and go to the next one when you are done.
I have 2 MBs, 1 Ford and 1 GM. Each reservoir comes with a different cap so you need a different adapter to make the pump system work with all the cars.