C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old May 17, 2016 | 12:17 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Amotoxracer
There is nothing wrong with trying gravity bleeding. If you changing a caliper or maybe a brake hose then you might get away with it provided you didn't allow much air into the steel lines. If your replacing a line or maybe the abs module or maybe the master cylinder then you cannot count on gravity bleeding to get the job done right. Some fluid will flow out the bleeder screw but it wont happen fast enough to carry the air with it.
^All that is wrong. Horse rubbish. And I can say that because...


Originally Posted by Amotoxracer
Unfortunately Tom realized success once upon a time with gravity bleeding, and therefore is now an unwavering believer.
Tom has done it successfully, 100's if not 1000's of times in his life. And Tom has used other methods, successfully, also. As Tom stated earlier, they ALL work, each has it advantages and drawbacks.

You know what is weird? First, moto man's issue w/gravity bleeding was Time; "It takes too long". When that was rebutted (by several posters), then it was "liability" -the red herring argument. Then it moved to "30% air in the system" (who knows where the THAT figure came from?), now it's finally evolved into what Moto-guy know best; defame the guy. I offer video'ed demonstration, and I get to slandered by manufactured bull **** about myself. What a great forum contributor!
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Old May 17, 2016 | 12:25 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Amotoxracer
It would be nice if the man could find a way to live with himself in the presence of a dissenting opinion.
two problems with this: I have no problems at all, with opinions of any type. What I DO have problems with is people who can not comprehend or agree with the facts. Facts are not the same as opinions. You don't "like" gravity bleeding...that is obvious. I have no problem with that at all. Use any method that you like (I think I've said that several times in this thread...right?). The problem, is that you say gravity bleeding takes too long. You say it's a liability. You say it leaves 30% air in the system...None of this is true, and I know this b/c I've bled out way, way too may systems using the method that I've described in this thread, successfully. You are most certainly welcome to your OPINION; "I don't like gravity bleeding". But the FACTS are, that it can and does work, and I know that, b/c I can do it.


Originally Posted by Amotoxracer
Just don't call it helpful. Its not.
Certainly not when your mind is closed, that's for sure. Try "listening"...you might actually learn something. Like you could have in the other threads where we had differing...."opinions".
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Old May 17, 2016 | 12:27 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
BTW: gravity bleeding won't work (well) on most 50's era cars as the master/res is located under the floor board...only inches above the wheel cylinders. How do I know that? I work on those cars too.
Where do you get such cars? Also how do you fill the reservoir? Pull off a floor panel?
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Old May 17, 2016 | 12:30 AM
  #44  
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Tom, is there a reason the MB dealership used pressure bleeding with a tank that is pressurized by shop air and forces fluid into the reservoir and you don't? Is there something bad bout it? Seems to work just like the gravity bleed.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 12:36 AM
  #45  
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I'd guess the MB dealer uses the pressure bleeder b/c it works (like all the methods), they already have the tool and most importantly, it's probably quicker -especially for the un savvy mechanic.


I have a customer that has a '50 Ford and a '67 GTO. The '50 Ford is a "regular" for me, b/c it's in rough shape -it's basically all original. The owner has a list of things he wants done...every time he has some money, he brings it over and we address another item on the list. One of the first things was the brakes. Due to the low location of the master, the iron bore, the hydroscopic nature of brake fluid, and lack of maintenance, the master bore was badly pitted and leaking.

Yes, there is a hole in the floor. You pull back the carpet, remove a tin "lid" in the floor, and then you can access the reservoir fill cap.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 07:28 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Well then, you're too dense for your own good. Facts have been presented numerous times....you admit to your own ignorance, yet you are unable to learn. I'm sorry for your poor soul.
This quote pretty much says everything anyone on here needs to know about you tom.

There is just no way to interact with you.

Anyone who does so with an opinion different that yours is immediately dragged into an abyss of personal attacks and insults. You are completely incapable of civil debate, because your idea of debate is who can yell the loudest or who can come up with the most creative insult.

Not that it really matters much, after all you rarely comment on the threads that are genuinely technical in nature. Instead its always a wide scope generalization of a procedure or product such as an oil additive, or in this case brake bleeding.

Anyway, go make your video or whatever else your going to do. I'm not interested in what you have to say anymore. Instead, after all this time I'm totally perplexed as to why you go out of your way to engage people (me included) in an assaultive way. I'm trying to figure out how this helps you.
Its a good thing we are not actually doing anything important here. If we trying to do something really critical such as flying a plane, and you were on the "team", we would all be dead. Unfortunately that is the net effect on the group when your involved.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 06:57 PM
  #47  
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Says the guy who starts with the slander in every thread where the facts don't match his imagination.

I'm not surprised at all that you don't seem interested in a video where you could learn something. Since that's the case, I won't waste my time video on my bleeding procedure. As you were.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 07:56 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by aklim
Tom, is there a reason the MB dealership used pressure bleeding with a tank that is pressurized by shop air and forces fluid into the reservoir and you don't? Is there something bad bout it? Seems to work just like the gravity bleed.
The reason pressure bleeders work so well is because they actually apply pressure. That means any air pockets that are present become compressed into a much smaller area, and the smaller area it displaces the less likely it is to trap itself around bends, loops and other assorted inclines. So when you combine that with steady flow then it seems to be possible to force air "downstream" to a bleeder screw. That's my theory, poke a hole in it if you can.

The only real disadvantage to pressure bleeding is ANY debris in the m/cylinder reservoir ends up in the master cylinder; or if your particularly unlucky the ABS module. This is never good. Also you go through a ton of brake fluid, and they are expensive if you buy all the various adaptors. Aside from those issues, pressure bleeding is the way to go if you don't have an assistant.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 08:25 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Amotoxracer
The only real disadvantage to pressure bleeding is ANY debris in the m/cylinder reservoir ends up in the master cylinder; or if your particularly unlucky the ABS module. This is never good. Also you go through a ton of brake fluid, and they are expensive if you buy all the various adaptors. Aside from those issues, pressure bleeding is the way to go if you don't have an assistant.
Pressure bleeding, gravity or 2 man, I keep my fluid clean enough it isn't a worry. I change ever 2 years. Also, I have a "Topsider" to suck out all the old fluid out of the reservoir, fill up, suck out.

I just use some Valvoline Dot 4 and it isn't too bad considering that the spray out volume from each bleeder isn't that much since you are doing it for a volume that you estimate the line from the master cylinder to be. So maybe about 30 seconds to flush everything?

It is about $20 to buy an adapter. I have 3 right now and they will do all 4. The ATV and the bikes I do 2 man. The cars I can do at midnight if I choose and don't need to wake up the wife or bang on a neighbor's door for help.
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Old May 19, 2016 | 12:52 AM
  #50  
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Well, I was doing the work, I had my phone, so here it is, for others who might be interested. Starting with a drained rear system, ...took me less than 5 minutes to fill and bleed. Did it myself, no special tools. I apologize that it's chopped up into 3 separate vids.



^ to be accurate, I probably pumped the pedal ~15 times. Hard to make the vid, narrate and also do the work at the same time. Not my forte'. Like all methods, this one works too, and requires no special tools and only 1 person.


.

Last edited by Tom400CFI; May 19, 2016 at 12:54 AM.
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