Is there a "how to" somewhere on the specifics of replacing the clutch on a C4?

I swapped my '01 Isuzu VehiCross' auto transmission to a 5 speed manual last summer so I know the basics, but I always enjoying reading more of the specifics for each different car.

Any links or suggestions? Videos, or articles that you all would recommend? I want to start buying parts as soon as possible.

I still don't fully understand if I should keep my dual mass flywheel, can you have them resurfaced, and/or should I go to a solid flywheel, how do you assure that it is properly balanced? Can you just replace the clutch components and leave the flywheel as it is? I have 90,000 miles on my C4 and the throw out bearing is making all kinds of noise. Thanks.

 

reach out to. Jim Jandik of Power Torque Systems 641-342-7446
A great GUY to talk with. Extremely knowledgeable with the ZF clutch setup's
you are going to find out there is a VERY limited quality clutch set-up & TOB's.
Jim, has the machining to re-surface your pressure plate.

 

FWIW,

I have a aluminum traditional flywheel. that was coupled up to a stronger clamping LT4 set-up. on my previous 383 this combo would not hold. I was pushing. Well over the LT4 clutch rating. I loved the action!!!

I have a McLeod Street pro. waiting. for my current car. with the 383 swap.

 

The clutch install isn't a lot of fun, but it's not too too terrible either. Basically the procedure in the FSM is pretty good. I would recommend getting the car up pretty high - and I normally pull the two bolts that hold the "batwing" in place - that allows the whole rear diff to move up and down, so put a spare floor jack under it, and lift / lower as needed in order to get yourself some better angles to get the "C" Beam (a.k.a. the torque arm) out, and it gets you a little more clearance to get the shifter rod down far enough to clear the body during the actual trans removal. The ZF Tranny is heavy, (120 ish LB)and it isn't flat on the bottom - so it's a bit of a PITA to control lowering and reinstalling. (obviously draining the trans oil before removing is not a bad idea).

On the subject of the throwout bearing - there are two throwout bearings for the ZF Gearboxes- with different ID's. Make sure the new throwout bearing you get has the same ID as the old one.

IF you have the tranny out, and the bellhousing unbolted, but the bellhousing just won't come off - you probably have a VERY worn clutch. If this happens - there is a 12mm (???) allen head recess on the back of the clutch pivot ball (which you can see with the tranny out). If you unscrew that pivot ball - the bellhousing will then come off - but remember - you'll be working from the back - so make sure you are unscrewing the ball (it comes out from the front (engine side) - not the back of the bellhousing).

One other thing - the square key that keeps the shifter **** from unscrewing can be maddening to remove. Once you pry the little plastic piece with the shift pattern indicator off - you'll see the square key. It's supposed to come straight up - but it can be difficult to make it do so - try small vice grips - or you can try drilling and tapping a hole in it - then threading in a screw and trying to pull upwards.

As for the Dual Mass Flywheel - no it can not be resurfaced. If it isn't too bad - you can try to lightly sand it, but my favorite way to deal with a flywheel that has some relatively minor damage is a right angle die grinder (air powered) and a couple of those 2" or 3" Scotchbrite discs - they seem to do a very good job cleaning the surface up if it isn't too bad.

A number of people have gone with the LT1 Camaro solid flywheel - and if you do a search - you will find that it has to have a fair amount of material surfaced off the face to work properly. If you go that way - you WILL experience "knocking" when the trans is warm - supposedly doesn't hurt anything - but it WILL make this noise. If you go with a aluminum flywheel - you will find that you dont' have to do the machining - but it will still knock.

GOOD LUCK !!!