Help!!!
#1
Help!!!
I am on my second mechanic to have a Procharger and TPIS mini ram intake installed on my 1986 c4 corvette. The car is complete but will crank but no start. We have fire at plugs (checked 3 of them) by grounding them to engine. We have fuel to fuel rail (checked injectors). We set timing to TDC and have rotor pointing to #1cylinder. We have compression (motor only has 1,000 miles on it) and blew my finger off #1 when setting TDC. Technicaly, the Procharger is out of the equation since we have it unhooked from the throttle body. We wanted to start the car naturally apirated and then introduce the Procharger. We are lost any ideas???
#2
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Yes, one of these things: ...is wrong. I'd suggest that you re-check your timing, for starters. I'd also ask how you "check injectors"? Will if fire up with a little shot or ether, or gasoline in the TB?
#3
No, fire with ether.
Can we agree that GM likes to make life difficult? I don't know about you but I am tired of the torx head screws as well.
#4
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Those are "details". The engine should START and run, at 0*, 6*, any of those or anywhere around those numbers. It seems likely that your distributor is 180* off.
#5
Ok, this mechanic swears it's not 180 off. I guess it's time for a third mechanic. Why can't one guy complete a project these days?
#6
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
I don't know. If this mechanic swears, then ask him why it won't fire on ether, when it has spark and compression. I'd be curious what his response is to that....
#7
Le Mans Master
Also verify fuel delivery from injector tips ... as in wet spark plugs or gasoline smell from the exhaust when cranking ... flashing noids don't necessarily mean that fuel is passing through the injectors .
#8
Ok, thanks for the advice. I am pulling car from what seems to be an old school mechanic/fabricator. He seems to be looking at this from more of a carborator type set up..... computers seem to scare him. The guy I have contacted to help is new school mechanic with diagnostic skills.
#10
Race Director
Pull the plugs and see if they are wet or dry. If you are getting fuel and spark, even if the timing was way off or even 180 degrees out, you would have some firing out the exhaust or intake.
#11
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
#12
#13
Guys, those are good checks, but the OP isn't to that point. Car won't fire on ether...he says. That means the root problem is not fuel. He needs to figure out why it won't fire when manually fed a fuel. Once THAT is fixed he may likely discover that the injectors do work (b/c it will likely run) and that further injector diagnosing is unnecessary.
#14
Here is a picture close to finish (before plug wires). Does anything look questionable to you?
#15
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Nno, but we're not going to be able to tell from a pic, if the dist. is 180 (or something like that) out. What is that red wire near the rear of the intake manifold? Is that your power to the distributor? It IS hooked up now, right?
#16
Le Mans Master
Has this engine ever run? Looking at picture pulling left valve cover looks pretty easy. I would pull valve cover rotate crank until balancer is on TDC. I would also make sure both valves on #1 are closed. if not go one more turn. Is pointer on distributor rotor is pointing at #1 terminal of cap? If not reset distributor. If it is verify firing order and it is in clock wise rotation.
If both valve are not closed either it is TDC #6 or timing chain is off. If engine is rotated 1 more time now it should be TDC#1.
If both valves still aren't closed at TDC check timing chain sprocket alignment.
If both valve are not closed either it is TDC #6 or timing chain is off. If engine is rotated 1 more time now it should be TDC#1.
If both valves still aren't closed at TDC check timing chain sprocket alignment.
#17
Melting Slicks
Just because you have fuel at the rail doesn't mean it's got enough pressure, have you put a test gauge on it?
edit: I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and if turned down too low the car won't start FYI
edit: I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and if turned down too low the car won't start FYI
Last edited by BOOT77; 06-28-2016 at 04:40 PM.
#18
Has this engine ever run? Looking at picture pulling left valve cover looks pretty easy. I would pull valve cover rotate crank until balancer is on TDC. I would also make sure both valves on #1 are closed. if not go one more turn. Is pointer on distributor rotor is pointing at #1 terminal of cap? If not reset distributor. If it is verify firing order and it is in clock wise rotation.
If both valve are not closed either it is TDC #6 or timing chain is off. If engine is rotated 1 more time now it should be TDC#1.
If both valves still aren't closed at TDC check timing chain sprocket alignment.
If both valve are not closed either it is TDC #6 or timing chain is off. If engine is rotated 1 more time now it should be TDC#1.
If both valves still aren't closed at TDC check timing chain sprocket alignment.
#19
That is power to distributor and is now hooked up. Good looking out! This picture is a little dated but all that I had.
#20
Le Mans Master
So at what point did it stop starting? Most mechanics would note distributor position if it was to be removed replace intake. It is easy to be one tooth off reinstalling distributor because oil pump drive rotates as distributor is lifted. When distributor is reinstalled it doesn't fit flush like it should. So then distributor is reinstalled so its flush and end up one tooth off. IDK how aftermarket EFI ties into distributor. With the OEM: if distributor 4 wire connector was unplugged the injectors would be inop. The ignition timing would be fixed at base and it would be possible to use a timing light to get an idea where timing is. The line on balancer and timing tab would have to be a bright color so they are easy to see. There will only be 1 flash every 2 revolutions. Even so it wouldn't show you if distributor rotor was facing #6 and not #1.
Large vacuum leaks like 5/16 or larger ports or hoses disconnected.
If plugs haven't been inspected they maybe fouled. It doesn't take long for an EFI to foul them during a no start situation.
To answer your question: "Yes" air will be pushed out spark plug hole even with valves open (overlap),but with considerably less force than valves closed (compression).
Large vacuum leaks like 5/16 or larger ports or hoses disconnected.
If plugs haven't been inspected they maybe fouled. It doesn't take long for an EFI to foul them during a no start situation.
To answer your question: "Yes" air will be pushed out spark plug hole even with valves open (overlap),but with considerably less force than valves closed (compression).
Last edited by Kevova; 06-28-2016 at 04:21 PM.