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Had my 92 Aqua Metallic/White Convertible for about 5 weeks now, and this forum has been unbelievably helpful particularly in that I never owned a C4 before. Fixed my antenna mast, power locks, lumbar pumps, and modified my Optispark, using info from forum tech topics and forum member help. I had been without a vet for 8 years, after having owned many over the previous 26 years. It was so long, I almost forgot the enjoyment of working on the car (most of the time), although the complexity of the C4 is a challenge compared to the mid year's simplicity. Now for the repair of the week. My driver window motor quit. The prev owner told me it did this once and that a fist to the lower part of the door panel rectified it. The window has worked flawlessly fo 5 weeks, all of a sudden, nothing. The fist trick didn't work. Took the door panel off and tapped the motor with a screwdriver while holding the button and up the window went. Brushes in the motor? Now, rather than putting it back together and hoping it keeps working, I'm going to try to replace the motor. Before I attempt it I'm trying to gather as much info as possible. Has anyone done this and, if so, would anyone mind sharing their experience.
Mike, The GM manual provides instructions to connect a test light to term. "A" and ground, and term. "B" and ground. The test light should illuminate when the "up" and "down" switches are depressed. No light-means replace the switch; light-means replace the motor.
I don't know how to get my electrical diagram to you so that you can locate terminals A & B.
I'm sure someone will be able to help soon.
You might contact FACTORYAUTOMANUALS.COM for a GM manual for your '92, if you don't have one ($35).
hmmm... i've got an 86 but i'm willing to guess that your window motor is a simple 2 wire brushed armature deal... it reverses direction by reversal of polarity to the armature. the easiest thing to do is pin probe the wires going to the motor by probing with a needle proble through the insulation. if you have voltage, pull the motor and disassemble ( if you want to go to the trouble). You'll probably find a dead spot on the commutator or a bad thermal breaker. this can be checked by probing an ohmeter between individual commutators (windings) which, can be cleaned up with some crocus cloth and taking a scribe between each commutator to get the crud out that is a result of brush residue. hope this helps. :chevy
If it does turn out to be the thermal breaker you can solder in a jumper wire to eliminate it (or replace the motor) ........BUT getting the motor out is the hard part :seeya
As al I've done to this point seems to indicate the switch ids fine and it more than likely is a motor problem, I ordered a new motor. It should be here tomorrow. I've seen your project description and it seems pretty detailed and informative. As I think you alluded to somewhere, based on the time and effort, replacing the motor seems like the thing to do.
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