C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Opti sensor replace or buy new distributor

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Old 07-26-2016, 08:53 PM
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jph46
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Default Opti sensor replace or buy new distributor

Will be tearing into my opti on my 93 LT1, 68k, auto, in the next few days here's a what if question.
A buddy of mine has a NOS Mitsubishi sensor never used, if my opti is sound, bearing good, clean inside, new MSD cap and rotor with vent, would installing the sensor be a wise move or should I just order a new disributor from Petris? My buddy would like to get about $90-$100 for the sensor!
Reason I'm going into the opti is to chase down an idle miss in drive at a stop, been thru the entire system and even took it to a shop they said they recommended the opti be replaced.
Would appreciate any thoughts on this.
Old 07-26-2016, 10:13 PM
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Kevova
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If your buddy's sensor works and car runs with no issues its worth it and pay him. If not disassemble, give him sensor back a X amount for use of sensor. Rough idle is more likely cap and rotor than sensor. Sensor would be misfire, "cut out", or stalling most likely hot becoming more frequent as time goes on.
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Old 07-26-2016, 11:02 PM
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jph46
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Originally Posted by Kevova
If your buddy's sensor works and car runs with no issues its worth it and pay him. If not disassemble, give him sensor back a X amount for use of sensor. Rough idle is more likely cap and rotor than sensor. Sensor would be misfire, "cut out", or stalling most likely hot becoming more frequent as time goes on.
First step is to check out the current opti.
I did put in the MDS cap and rotor about 6 months ago.
My idle has gotten worse in the last month, engine almost stalls when in drive at idle.
Thanks for the advice!
Old 07-27-2016, 07:44 AM
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Kevova
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Vacuums leaks & carbon build up on throttle body bores are a couple things to look at. Also make sure spark plug wires are still firmly in cap and on plugs. Sometimes they "pop" loose from terminals.

Last edited by Kevova; 07-27-2016 at 07:46 AM.
Old 07-27-2016, 08:44 AM
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jph46
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Originally Posted by Kevova
Vacuums leaks & carbon build up on throttle body bores are a couple things to look at. Also make sure spark plug wires are still firmly in cap and on plugs. Sometimes they "pop" loose from terminals.
Thanks for the advice, I've been thru ignition system, plugs, wires, ICM & coil. Cleaned TB, IAC, found a couple of small vacuum leaks. Fuel system from new pump to BoschIII's pressure is good. Compression checked out. Everything I can check with the FSM has been done. No codes only thing is a rich condition, O2's replaced.
I'm going to pull the opti and check it out, it is the original with a new MSD cap and rotor installed about 6 months ago, less than 800 miles.
Old 07-27-2016, 09:38 AM
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SJW
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Originally Posted by jph46
Thanks for the advice, I've been thru ignition system, plugs, wires, ICM & coil. Cleaned TB, IAC, found a couple of small vacuum leaks. Fuel system from new pump to BoschIII's pressure is good. Compression checked out. Everything I can check with the FSM has been done. No codes only thing is a rich condition, O2's replaced.
I'm going to pull the opti and check it out, it is the original with a new MSD cap and rotor installed about 6 months ago, less than 800 miles.
If the rotor and cap are almost new and there are no codes set, you'll almost surely be wasting your time by getting into the Opti. The distributor section is nearly new, and the absence of codes indicates that the optical section is working.

The rich condition is what you need to be chasing down. Look elsewhere for that. If you've reached the limit of your knowledge and diagnostic tools, it's time to get the car to somebody who can take it to the next level of troubleshooting, or you'll frustrate yourself and waste a lot of cash replacing good parts. It's not worth it. A talented diagnostician who has a good scope, full-function scanner, etc, should be able to pinpoint the source of the problem quickly and easily, and repair it.

If it's running rich, keep the running time to an absolute minimum until the problem has been solved. Unburned fuel can dry-wash cylinder walls, contaminate engine oil, foul spark plugs, and damage catalysts.

Good luck with it.

Live well,

SJW
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:12 PM
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thomastl
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I went thru the same thing on my 95. I replaced everything but the Opti.
No codes but I had a rich condition on the left bank and a miss and pinging.
I finally broke down and replaced the Opti. All is good now.
I purchased the one from Sac-city on here. Cheap and works fine so far after about 3000 miles.
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Old 07-28-2016, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by thomastl
I went thru the same thing on my 95. I replaced everything but the Opti.
No codes but I had a rich condition on the left bank and a miss and pinging.
I finally broke down and replaced the Opti. All is good now.
I purchased the one from Sac-city on here. Cheap and works fine so far after about 3000 miles.
Thanks for the info, Sac City is now offering a 2 year warranty, only reason I'm thinking Petris is a 5 year warranty. Not a fun job changing them out but I've almost have it down to a 3 or 4 hour job.

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