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Just I've failed to get the right alignment...I don't get how to do it...if I push muffler all the way in hanger... Somewhere a pipe will not well inserted in..,
the rear adjustment is within each end of the "S" pipe between the muffler and the rear Y-pipe. you should be able to get within a 1/8" or so. also, coat all the slip joints with anti-seize - aids in moving those pipes during adjustment.
Trust me at WOT its loud on the outside. you may need to put a piece of wood under the rear center to hold the pipes down while to tighten the clamps. It took me 3 time going back under after driving a few days each time before I was happy with the fit. After that I had every thing welded up.
the rear adjustment is within each end of the "S" pipe between the muffler and the rear Y-pipe. you should be able to get within a 1/8" or so. also, coat all the slip joints with anti-seize - aids in moving those pipes during adjustment.
I've put grease on slip joint. Instruction sheet says that anti seize tarnish stainless steel...
Thanks for your answer about alignment. Now I getting how to do it... Adjust behind center muffler only.
Last edited by Christi@n; Aug 9, 2016 at 06:47 PM.
1. Sound today is different from yesterday... Today is more the typical v8 sound to to to to to to to to. Many guys say that is like a boat... Think that "like a boat" works good, plus IMO is the right sound for this old school cast engine block... Alu blocks are somewhat different..
Maybe first cool down has tuned it? i don't know if it's right or it's just my impression.
2. Also seems that i've gain torque at low end....
Last edited by Christi@n; Aug 10, 2016 at 05:17 AM.
Ok I will do it as soon as possible...
Drive vette with this sound is amazing....seems to have another car in hands... Stock exhaust does not enhance c4 vette.
Last edited by Christi@n; Aug 10, 2016 at 05:23 AM.
I've put grease on slip joint. Instruction sheet says that anti seize tarnish stainless steel...
Thanks for your answer about alignment. Now I getting how to do it... Adjust behind center muffler only.
FWIW, I used permatex anti-seize without issue. I don't recall seeing that in the instruction sheets - not that I read everything and not that everything sinks in either -
I love the sound of corsa - 5 installs to date - #6, sitting in boxes -
Trust me at WOT its loud on the outside. you may need to put a piece of wood under the rear center to hold the pipes down while to tighten the clamps. It took me 3 time going back under after driving a few days each time before I was happy with the fit. After that I had every thing welded up.
What distance should be the right one from rear diff to center muffler??
What distance should be the right one from rear diff to center muffler??
Piece of wood con help me here too?
if you are talking about the distance between the bottom of the differential and the pipes, I always tried to get things within 1/2 to 3/4 inch. I would put a 1/2" piece of wood as a spacer, support the exhaust, and snug thing up. I usually got a little drop after removing the support and spacer. it helps to support the exhaust at the differential while aligning the system.
if you are talking about the distance between the bottom of the differential and the pipes, I always tried to get things within 1/2 to 3/4 inch. I would put a 1/2" piece of wood as a spacer, suppore exhaust, and snug thing up. I usually got a little drop after removing the support and spacer. it helps to support the exhaust at the differential while aligning the system.
Right I was speaking about that
Great trick to use pieces of wood there.. I don't think about it
Thanks again
So once I've tighten clamp bolts and I remove wood pieces, should pipes stay in same place I've left them?
Last edited by Christi@n; Aug 10, 2016 at 09:49 AM.
Great trick to use pieces of wood there.. I don't think about it
Thanks again
So once I've tighten clamp bolts and I remove wood pieces, should pipes stay in same place I've left them?
once you have everything aligned, torque the clamps (i'm thinking 35 lb.ft) - the pipes should pretty much stay in place - you might get a little drop, but not much....
once you have everything aligned, torque the clamps (i'm thinking 35 lb.ft) - the pipes should pretty much stay in place - you might get a little drop, but not much....
45 ft/lb from instruction sheet.
Problem is that instead to get a little drop, support springs will raise pipes...
Seems that This system is lighter than stock one
Last edited by Christi@n; Aug 10, 2016 at 11:17 AM.
Finally the rear muffler tips are properly aligned.. Unfortunately the driver side headpipe is not properly seated on the cat, and a lot of noise come from there (vroom vroom), Cause I've inserted all the way down the driver side headpipe in the center muffler, since before just 1/2" was grabbed in, and I think it wasn't properly working, infact when i removed the headpipe was lightly warped. so tomorrow i will need to do further adjustments.
Anyway I think that for my car to cut a little the pass side headpipe would be a nice idea cause it is too long.
There are some connection points where i've got this situation(see the pic. Pipe is not inserted all the way down)... It's impossible to get them any other way
Should it however work?
Last edited by Christi@n; Aug 14, 2016 at 05:28 PM.
you may need to put a piece of wood under the rear center to hold the pipes down while to tighten the clamps. It took me 3 time going back under after driving a few days each time before I was happy with the fit. After that I had every thing welded up.
