C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

AC Recharge Questions

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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 08:33 AM
  #21  
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85 to 89, according to Rockauto uses the same part 7014020.

90-93 uses 7014306

94-96 uses 7014557

Anyone know what happens if we switch in a 84-96 condenser? How will fitting go? I really hate to bend the pipes since I broke one last time at the weld and it is really hard to get a new one.
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 08:40 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by blynch67
Jeez, the OP is just looking for some guidance on how to fix his A/C



Originally Posted by aklim
True but barring good luck, the gas might have to be evacuated is a real possibility
...........and the OP mentioned a "possible relationship" with a local shop. I believe the OP does as I suggested in my first post. The rest of this thread is I doubt of any value because you've certainly demonstrated you maybe don't get it.

Regrading your thoughts on condenser substitution, all of the lines would require local fabrication, '87 and earlier would be one fabrication scheme, '88 & '89 another and '90 - '93 yet another.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Aug 21, 2016 at 08:42 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 08:41 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1





...........and the OP mentioned a "possible relationship" with a local shop. I believe the OP does as I suggested in my first post. The rest of this thread is I doubt of any value because you've certainly demonstrated you maybe don't get it.
Feel free to elucidate.
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 08:52 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by aklim
Before you just recharge, I would definitely check why it is not working. Is it a switch somewhere or is it a leak. If it is a leak, I would pull the charge out, fix the problem and then put a receiver dryer on it, fill and test. I really wish it mine wasn't converted to R134A. I have yet to see a conversion that cools as well in blazing hot weather driving start and stop yet.
This I believe explains it all - the car was in storage for 8 years so the evaluation is an "assumed". Then you try to turn the conversation into a refrigerant debate -

OP did ask for thoughts though so I guess you've reason to suspect you've done well!!

I notice the OP ain't been back - maybe he will.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Aug 21, 2016 at 08:54 AM.
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Old Sep 1, 2016 | 02:47 PM
  #25  
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Default Air conditioner 1985

Originally Posted by dsimon55
Hi all

I have a 1985 coupe. After 8 years I have taken it out of storage and got it back on the road. When i drove it last the AC worked great. Now Nothing. I am thinking of just having the system evacuated the recharged with a can of oil and the R12 freon.
Anyone have any thoughts? Anything I should look out for?
Any help would be great. I have a shop that works on AC all the time but wanted to get other opinions

Thanks
Your 1985 has a accumulator, not receiver dryer like older Corvettes. It also has a orifice tube. I just replaced my 85's air conditioner compressor because I was fed up with the oil leakage from the front seal. I also replaced the accumulator and installed a new orifice tube. The original 31 year old orifice tube had basically clean screens. Did find 6 or 7pieces of minute shivers of alumimum on the big screen. Vacuumed the system down and installed R12. I installed the correct 525 oil amount split between the compressor and accumulator before installing them.
My 31 year old compressor did not drain any oil after removal and the 31 year old accumulator did not drain any oil.
I believe having new 525 oil installed is a good idea you have. The last time my 85's air conditioning system was serviced by a professional shop with the R12 machine the R12 was removed and the oil was removed. New 525 oil was installed with my old R12 and some new R12. The system did outstanding cooling after this service.
I tried to locate a local shop that still could service a R12 system and could not find one. Did find a shop that still had an old R12 machine but it was not usable any more.
I think you are lucky that you have a shop that can service your 85"s R12 system

Last edited by 70ZZ3 96LT4; Sep 1, 2016 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 07:32 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by dsimon55
Hi all

I have a 1985 coupe. After 8 years I have taken it out of storage and got it back on the road. When i drove it last the AC worked great. Now Nothing. I am thinking of just having the system evacuated the recharged with a can of oil and the R12 freon.
Anyone have any thoughts? Anything I should look out for?
Any help would be great. I have a shop that works on AC all the time but wanted to get other opinions

Thanks
I would do exactly what your thinking ...
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 03:23 AM
  #27  
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FWIW - the other day I was driving down US-1 from st. augustine - cruising around 65mph in my 134a converted 85. outside temp, upper 80's (and typical, high humidity here in florida). for the hell of it, stuck a digital thermometer in the center duct, and read 39.7°. I don't know how much cooler R12 would be, but it can't be more than a couple degrees. at idle, in traffic, I realize 134a may not be as efficient, and I have noticed some temperature creep to the mid 50's, but then again, it still pumps out enough cold air to meet my requirements. BTW, i'm pretty sure those mid 50 temps at idle are "textbook-norm" for a conversion. I also understanding that on a proper conversion, the condenser capacity needs to be about 30% larger for 134a. that may be the cause for some of the temperature creep. I weighed out the "bang for the buck" return on the condenser upgrade, and couldn't justify the "time and material" thing.

it's really "to each, his own" on the conversion, but I guess I need to be spitting ice cubes out my center duct before some will acknowledge that, if done properly, a 134a conversion can rival old r12. I can't recall my old r12 system being any better than my 134a conversion, but then again I don't have any factual test data, only from memory and the SOTP thing. in a nutshell, my 134a conversion works for me and that's all that matters!

(to the OP, and anyone else for that matter) - bottom line (IMO), if everything in your system is in proper order, and you have a good supply of R12 or deep pockets for professional servicing, stick with the R12. the minute anything goes "belly-up" in the system, i'd convert. my compressor clutch bearing was starting to fail, and I had a LP hose failure, so I decided to the 134a route. i'm thinking my net cost for the conversion was around $400, and that included a new (ac delco) compressor and accumulator/dryer.

just my 2-cents....

Last edited by Joe C; Sep 5, 2016 at 08:47 AM.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 07:59 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Joe C
FWIW - the other day I was driving down US-1 from st. augustine - cruising around 65mph in my 134a converted 85. outside temp, upper 80's (and typical, high humidity here in florida). for the hell of it, stuck a digital thermometer in the center duct, and read 39.7°. I don't know how much cooler R12 would be, but it can't be more than a couple degrees. at idle, in traffic, I realize 134a may not be as efficient, and I have noticed some temperature creep to the mid 50's, but then again, it still pumps out enough cold air to meet my requirements. BTW, i'm pretty sure those mid 50 temps at idle are "textbook-norm" for a conversion. I also understanding that on a proper conversion, the condenser capacity needs to be about 30% larger for 134a. that may be the cause for some of the temperature creep. I weighed out the "bang for the buck" return on the condenser upgrade, and couldn't justify the "time and material" thing.

it's really "to each, his own" on the conversion, but I guess I need to be spitting ice cubes out my center duct before some will acknowledge that, if done properly, a 134a conversion can rival old r12. I can't recall my old r12 system being any better than my 134a conversion, but then again I don't have any factual test data, only from memory and the SOTP thing. in a nutshell, my 134a conversion works for me and that's all that matters!

(to the OP, and anyone else for that matter) - bottom line (IMO), if everything in your system is in proper order, and you have a good supply or R12 or deep pockets for professional servicing, stick with the R12. the minute anything goes "belly-up" in the system, i'd convert. my compressor clutch bearing was starting to fail, and I had a LP hose failure, so I decided to the 134a route. i'm thinking my net cost for the conversion was around $400, and that included a new (ac delco) compressor and accumulator/dryer.

just my 2-cents....

That's the best testimony I've heard on this subject.
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