C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

95 LT1 intermittent skip

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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 02:09 PM
  #1  
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Default 95 LT1 intermittent skip

Hi all. I've done a good bit of searching but haven't quite found what I need. I have a base 95 convertible. First, I have checked the codes and only pulled a C12 and an H18, the 18 was because I pulled the connectors off of the injectors while the ignition was on. I have an intermittent skip that I'm having trouble diagnosing. Earlier this year I freshened up the engine bay along with changing the intake and valve cover gaskets. I reused the icm and coil and made sure to put heat sink grease on the icm/bracket. I pulled the spark plugs and checked them, they were all good and I double checked the gapping. I installed new wires , cleaned the injectors using the valve stem and battery method, checked the injectors while running using an automotive stethoscope ( all sounded good), put a new fuel filter and strainer on. The opti cap was changed about four years ago, I had a heater hose blow and soaked the opti.
When idling you can feel a miss, sometimes, and if you push the gas pedal and bring rpm's up to 12-1400 there's a significant shake and while on the road when I hear the miss and push the gas pedal it feel like I'm losing power and have to push harder to get the miss to stop.
It's not constant and at cold startup it doesn't seem to be present. Only after it warms up does it start. When you stand behind the car at idle you can hear a definite miss as a pop, not a loud pop, but a pop nonetheless. I am going to take the icm and coil to get it checked.
Any pearls of wisdom?
Thanks in advance. I learn a ton from the search function, but I am just looking for a direction that maybe someone else has been in regarding this.
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 02:42 PM
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Check the icm and coil. There are two others having similar problems on 94s. Yours is the same set up. I will tell you the same thing that fixed mine was to replace the front two o2 sensors. Did your spark wires all click twice? I think your slight idle miss might be that.

Last edited by antfarmer2; Aug 21, 2016 at 02:45 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 02:52 PM
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I am sorry, I should've stated that the miss was present with my old wires. I put new Taylor wires on and made sure of the double click. I did replace the two front O2 sensors about four years ago. I'll take the icm and coil tomorrow to be checked out. The coil itself is rusty, so maybe it's gone bad, it's original so it just may be time to change it anyway.
Thanks for the input though!
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by sluggballz
I am sorry, I should've stated that the miss was present with my old wires. I put new Taylor wires on and made sure of the double click. I did replace the two front O2 sensors about four years ago. I'll take the icm and coil tomorrow to be checked out. The coil itself is rusty, so maybe it's gone bad, it's original so it just may be time to change it anyway.
Thanks for the input though!
Do not forget the thermal grease on the icm.
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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 09:10 PM
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I would try to find if I can localize it to a specific cylinder. You can do this by disconnecting the injectors one by one. You can't tell if the pugs are good by looking at them. If you are going to go thru the effort of a half day checking plugs, you should have replaced them. You might be able to tell a bad plug with a spark/pressure tester otherwise it's a waste of time.

You might want to look for a vacuum leak and a EGR leak just to cover all bases.

Look for any sparking of the plug and coil wires by viewing it in the dark.

Don’t overlook the opti cap as the problem.

Don’t think is a fuel pressure problem or O2 problem.
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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 09:49 PM
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I would also double check your plug wires and injector connectors to make sure they are not mixed up it has been done before. I would also ohm your injectors and if original might talk to Jon at FIC.

Last edited by antfarmer2; Aug 23, 2016 at 09:53 PM.
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