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I think they are the same, but you torque them differently. Instead of an L98 which is just "torque to this value in this order" I think the LT1/LT4 is something like "torque to this value in this order, and then turn xx degrees more in this order"
Well,...I'm trying to get some to do a head swap this weekend. So I kinda need to know if they're the same. Cause all the local speed shops look at you weird when you tell them you need something for a LT1.
Billybob Redneck scratches his head and says, "Hey Jimmy, we got sum dem dere head bolts fur one of dem new-fangled Curvettes??" :lol:
I don't know if they changed it in later years, but at least in '92 they did not use TTY (torque-to-yield) bolts. The manual just said to clean, and reuse, so that is what I did. May be different in later years, not sure though. If they are TTY bolts, then you do need new bolts and an angle gauge.
Ok,....forgive my stupidity,....but I've done numorous head swaps,...and never heard of an "angle gauge".
Explaination?
For TTY bolts, you stress the bolts past the yield point. This permanently stretches the bolt. In this "plastic deformation" range, torque readings are useless, hence you have an "angle" spec instead of a torque spec for the final tightening. The angle gauge just tells you how many degrees you turned the bolt/wrench. You first torque to just below the yield point, as specified in the manual, then finish off with the prescribed angle. Also, since you are stretching the bolt, you cannot reuse them.
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Re: (VQT88Vette)
When I reinstalled my LT4 heads, I did a lot of research via the web on TTY and read the Helm's manual.
I could find nothing in the Helms that said you could not reuse the old bolts. However, the book did say use the torque angle meter which definitely implies they are one time use bolts.
I took the safe path in replacing the bolts with stock GM head bolts. If you go to the dealer, they charge over $40 for the set. But, Scoggin Dickey ships a complete set for $26. If you got with ARP, they are not TTY, so you can use a regular torque wrench.
TTY bolts, in simple terms, are designed to stretch slightly when properly tightened. I believe gaskets with aluminum heads do better with TTY bolts. TTY bolts can not be tightened to the design spec with a torque wrench but instead torque first to 30 ft. lbs. then turned 60 degrees for the short bolts and 80 degrees for the long bolts. The torque angle meter is available at Autozone for about $10. Its a pain to use as its about 3 inches in diameter and with some bolts, its difficult to get in place.
If you look at the directions for ARP bolts they have their own torque specs.
The sheet of paper will say "use the manufacturers torque sequence but not their torque spec" Also you'll want to do it in stages. Say it says to torque them to 60 foot pounds, torque them all in sequence to 30 and then torque them all again to 60. This will make sure that you don't ruin your bolts and such if you have one that doesn't want to go you can remove them and figure it out before you torque it to the full spec.
Also I would highly suggest that you use their aseembly lube on the threads. I did and torqued to their spec and haven't had any trouble. I also used their assembly lube on my header bolts. It allowed me to tighten the hell out of them and none of them have even thought about backing out.
Either one uses the GM OEM bolts with a angle wrench or uses ARP with a torque wrench with their torque settings.
Both bolts stretch a "little" as that is what keeps them tight. I believe the angle method is supposed to be more accurate as that is what most manufacturers are going with now.
I will stick with simple ARP's for my LT4 heads this winter...an LT4 is an LT1 is a early small block Chevy head in my book-although aluminum or cast iron...