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Hello, My car runs pretty hot, as do what seems like all the l-98s. Well my rad boost fan will kick on when it gets too hot around 228 but my main fan, that runs with the ac, does not. I know the fan motor works because I jumped the ac pressure sensor switch and it came on... but it doesn't seem to run when the car needs to be cooled. I am guessing its the relay, but what else could cause this? and is there a temp sensor I can replace to get my main fan to come on at a lower than spec rating? I HATE that this car runs so hot, it stresses me out. Thanks guys always appreciate the help! Also is there a way to jumper that relay to test? thanks! I hate throwing money at the car without knowing what I need!
The main fan comes on at 225F. The aux fan (in front of the radiator) comes on at 245F and is controlled by a switch in the driver's side head. If you ground that switch, the fan should come on.
The main fan behind the radiator is controlled by the ECM. It uses the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) on the front of the intake manifold to determine when to turn on the fan. The turn on point is set in the programming and is usually 228°.
The ECM uses the coolant cycling switch on the high pressure HVAC line to tell the ECM that the AC compressor is running. If the fan runs when that switch is jumpered then the entire chain of fan control components is working.
On my car the auxiliary fan temperature switch closes at 238°. I believe that temperature is standard on all C4s and also applies to the later cars that have ECM controlled secondary fans.
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Originally Posted by Kdeman1
Hello, My car runs pretty hot, as do what seems like all the l-98s. Well my rad boost fan will kick on when it gets too hot around 228 but my main fan, that runs with the ac, does not. I know the fan motor works because I jumped the ac pressure sensor switch and it came on... but it doesn't seem to run when the car needs to be cooled. I am guessing its the relay, but what else could cause this? and is there a temp sensor I can replace to get my main fan to come on at a lower than spec rating? I HATE that this car runs so hot, it stresses me out. Thanks guys always appreciate the help! Also is there a way to jumper that relay to test? thanks! I hate throwing money at the car without knowing what I need!
maybe the car doesn't get hot enough for it to turn on. How hot is too hot for you?
The main fan behind the radiator is controlled by the ECM. It uses the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) on the front of the intake manifold to determine when to turn on the fan. The turn on point is set in the programming and is usually 228°.
The ECM uses the coolant cycling switch on the high pressure HVAC line to tell the ECM that the AC compressor is running. If the fan runs when that switch is jumpered then the entire chain of fan control components is working.
On my car the auxiliary fan temperature switch closes at 238°. I believe that temperature is standard on all C4s and also applies to the later cars that have ECM controlled secondary fans.
Thank you this is very helpful. So the fan and relay work which is great. Its strange tho, I sat down with the car yesterday and allowed it to warm up, The aux rad boost fan kicked in at about 218, so it came on according to this very early. The car got up around mid 220's it did hit 228 isn't overheating. But the primary A/C Fan didn't come on. Is it possible to have the fan come on at about 225? that's about as hot as it want it too get
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Originally Posted by Kdeman1
Thank you this is very helpful. So the fan and relay work which is great. Its strange tho, I sat down with the car yesterday and allowed it to warm up, The aux rad boost fan kicked in at about 218, so it came on according to this very early. The car got up around mid 220's it did hit 228 isn't overheating. But the primary A/C Fan didn't come on. Is it possible to have the fan come on at about 225? that's about as hot as it want it too get
unless your car is hitting 240 all the time, there probably is no concern. Take out your radiator and clean it in and out.
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Originally Posted by Cruisinfanatic
unless your car is hitting 240 all the time, there probably is no concern. Take out your radiator and clean it in and out.
If his main fan isn't coming on BEFORE the aux fan, he still needs to keep looking. As pointed out, the computer get's it's queue to turn on that fan via the coolant temp sensor in the front of the intake. I'd be curious what that is reading -- which can be done with an ALDL cable and TunerProRT. Or...with a scanner? IDK.
If the computer isn't "seeing" the correct temperature, other issues could be occuring. Rich?
There's a reason the fan isn't coming on. I wouldn't want to go into next summer with that problem.
Thank you this is very helpful. So the fan and relay work which is great. Its strange tho, I sat down with the car yesterday and allowed it to warm up, The aux rad boost fan kicked in at about 218, so it came on according to this very early. The car got up around mid 220's it did hit 228 isn't overheating. But the primary A/C Fan didn't come on. Is it possible to have the fan come on at about 225? that's about as hot as it want it too get
You're trying to (it seems) to use the TEMP GAUGE @ the cluster to gauge the performance of your CTS/COOLING ETC> That doesn't work. The TEMP SENDER/SENSOR for the cluster isn't known to be anything more than an "approximation" of the coolant temp. The ECM uses the CTS for fan control. You could confirm the fan operation using a scanner to check CTS values seen by the ECM, if the ECM doesn't see the TEMP required from the CTS it isn't going to turn on. Could you have a bad CTS? Maybe You need to check the proper components to determine efficiency and "it seems" YOU'RE NOT!
The switch that controls the AUX could very well have been changed OR again you're using the TEMP GAUGE @ cluster to try and evaluate a component controlled by a different still device.
Your car has three TEMP SENDER/SWITCH/SENSOR components that aren't related.
CTS @ intake supplies ECM with values.
Sender in cylinder head supplies information to cluster.
Switch in other cylinder head turn on/off AUX fan.
If you're using a scanner and have mentioned the TEMPS seen by it then yes you have issues and I'm wrong in my assumptions.
You need to scan the car and compare the cluster temps displayed to those being seen by the ECM.
I have the same problem. I checked the fan relay and the fan comes on when I ground the relay. So what would be the best way to check the sensor supplying the ECM. Do I just replace it with a new sensor? I know one thing. I need a total rewire, the last owner let water set in the rear and the back harness copper is all black from corrosion. And the engine compartment is suffering because the insulation on the exposed wires is getting very brittle.
Originally Posted by WVZR-1
You're trying to (it seems) to use the TEMP GAUGE @ the cluster to gauge the performance of your CTS/COOLING ETC> That doesn't work. The TEMP SENDER/SENSOR for the cluster isn't known to be anything more than an "approximation" of the coolant temp. The ECM uses the CTS for fan control. You could confirm the fan operation using a scanner to check CTS values seen by the ECM, if the ECM doesn't see the TEMP required from the CTS it isn't going to turn on. Could you have a bad CTS? Maybe You need to check the proper components to determine efficiency and "it seems" YOU'RE NOT!
The switch that controls the AUX could very well have been changed OR again you're using the TEMP GAUGE @ cluster to try and evaluate a component controlled by a different still device.
Your car has three TEMP SENDER/SWITCH/SENSOR components that aren't related.
CTS @ intake supplies ECM with values.
Sender in cylinder head supplies information to cluster.
Switch in other cylinder head turn on/off AUX fan.
If you're using a scanner and have mentioned the TEMPS seen by it then yes you have issues and I'm wrong in my assumptions.
You need to scan the car and compare the cluster temps displayed to those being seen by the ECM.
Find your CTS and hit it with an infra red thermometer at some intervals between cold and operating temp. At the same time, compare it with the scanner to see what the ECM sees.
Thanks. I need to borrow an ECM reader. But if I knew what the readings were of the sender, I could check with a meter and then know if the sender is good or bad.
Thanks. I need to borrow an ECM reader. But if I knew what the readings were of the sender, I could check with a meter and then know if the sender is good or bad.
You would get a resistance value and have to interpret it
Thanks. I need to borrow an ECM reader. But if I knew what the readings were of the sender, I could check with a meter and then know if the sender is good or bad.
Delphi production references for the CTS are in this link: