1985 4+3 removal issue
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1985 4+3 removal issue
I started to remove the transmission in my 85 and ran into a snag. Doing some clutch work. The bolts holding the c channel to the diff were put in from the top by some asshat. The hex nuts are on bottom. Not enough room for the bolt to come out. Never seen one done this way. Should I just make some holes through the top of the tunnel and move on? It doesn't seem worthwhile to remove the whole diff.
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I started to remove the transmission in my 85 and ran into a snag. Doing some clutch work. The bolts holding the c channel to the diff were put in from the top by some asshat. The hex nuts are on bottom. Not enough room for the bolt to come out. Never seen one done this way. Should I just make some holes through the top of the tunnel and move on? It doesn't seem worthwhile to remove the whole diff.
doh!
well i guess you to either pull diff or pull interior carpet then put holes. you could fill after with the right filler and not worry bout any long term affect.
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The problem you will encounter is that you can lower the rear, with the bat wings disconnected, your transmission is still connected to the engine. You probably won't have enough engine rocking travel to remove the bolts before the optispark base contacts the firewall. It may work though. If you try something like this with the optispark top on, you will damage it.
But once you have lowered the rear diff, you are only about 8 rear suspension bolts away from removing the whole thing.
This nasty pic was a before shot. I disassembled the whole thing rebuilt it, and now it looks brand new.
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And even on the '92-'96 that do have an optispark, it's nowhere near the firewall!
Last edited by Ray Quayle; Sep 24, 2016 at 02:06 PM.
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I started to remove the transmission in my 85 and ran into a snag. Doing some clutch work. The bolts holding the c channel to the diff were put in from the top by some asshat. The hex nuts are on bottom. Not enough room for the bolt to come out. Never seen one done this way. Should I just make some holes through the top of the tunnel and move on? It doesn't seem worthwhile to remove the whole diff.
Your original thoughts are maybe not that bad an idea either. It's yours to observe and make the decision. Let us know which and maybe WHY you chose the route you choose!
If you've very compact cut-off tool or perhaps one with a flex-drive you'd be all set. Maybe borrow/rent.
Good morning RQ!!!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Sep 25, 2016 at 12:25 AM.
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From: Glenview IL
I removed my entire drivetrain, transmission and rear back like this. That was likely how yours was reassembled. It's not hard to do.
The problem you will encounter is that you can lower the rear, with the bat wings disconnected, your transmission is still connected to the engine. You probably won't have enough engine rocking travel to remove the bolts before the optispark base contacts the firewall. It may work though. If you try something like this with the optispark top on, you will damage it.
But once you have lowered the rear diff, you are only about 8 rear suspension bolts away from removing the whole thing.
This nasty pic was a before shot. I disassembled the whole thing rebuilt it, and now it looks brand new.
The problem you will encounter is that you can lower the rear, with the bat wings disconnected, your transmission is still connected to the engine. You probably won't have enough engine rocking travel to remove the bolts before the optispark base contacts the firewall. It may work though. If you try something like this with the optispark top on, you will damage it.
But once you have lowered the rear diff, you are only about 8 rear suspension bolts away from removing the whole thing.
This nasty pic was a before shot. I disassembled the whole thing rebuilt it, and now it looks brand new.
. I hope that the distributor won't break in some 200 miles or so ..
Last edited by corvetteracer72; Sep 25, 2016 at 09:22 AM.
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Finally got a little bit of time to work on this. Anyone squeamish about molesting an 85', look away now and do not read the following lines! I cut a 3ish by 6ish rectangular piece out of the tunnel. Right on top of the tunnel, between the compartments. It worked very well. This will also make putting the bolts back in much easier on the rear half of the c beam.
Last edited by coothethird; Oct 25, 2016 at 08:13 PM.
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I also found out why I had a bit of an atf leak. The vent coming from the od unit was loose and dangling inside the c beam. It appears to be stripped out on the od housing. Anyone repaired one of those before? I'm thinking some sort of epoxy would be strong enough.
Last edited by coothethird; Oct 25, 2016 at 08:12 PM.
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Changed the clutch on my 85 2 weeks ago . I unscrewed the bolts of the C beam from both the rear diff & OD , then took it out. Didn' thought to take out also the diff .It was quite a PITA ... Then I saw that the distributor was against the firewall and I thought " I'm screwed that's it " Changed the clutch and all the bushings on the car , put everything back. The engine started well - no issues . I hope that the distributor won't break in some 200 miles or so ..
. I hope that the distributor won't break in some 200 miles or so ..