I think what I'll do is wait and pull the driveshaft and extension housing out. Then take them both to the shop that will replace the bushing and put a new seal in the extension housing. And while there, I'll have them inspect the yoke to tell me if the yoke is worn and needs replaced, or if the damper is worn and the yoke needs replaced.

Then I'll see about ordering the Spicer 2-3-9211X yoke.

Also, how much did it cost to get your drive shaft balanced?

I'm probably going to also do the pinion seal while I'm there. I've read of some putting sealant on outside of seal before pressing it in. And then putting sealant on the splines in the shaft to I guess keep oil leaking out past the splines.

But before removing nut. You mark the nuts location to housing and yoke and count number of thread above nut. Then tighten it back to where all the marks line up. Some say the nut is a one use only nut and should be replaced every time. But seems like that's more risk of messing up the pre-load if the new nut wasn't tightened down correctly.

Any particular brand to recommend for the bushing and transmission seal? And also the rear pinion seal?

Thanks

 

I think what I'll do is wait and pull the driveshaft and extension housing out. Then take them both to the shop that will replace the bushing and put a new seal in the extension housing. And while there, I'll have them inspect the yoke to tell me if the yoke is worn and needs replaced, or if the damper is worn and the yoke needs replaced.

If he says it's bad or should be replaced, then I'll see about ordering the Spicer 2-3-9211X yoke. And check around with balancing the driveshaft.

Also, how much did it cost to get your drive shaft balanced?

I'm probably going to also do the pinion seal while I'm there. I've read of some putting sealant on outside of seal before pressing it in. And then putting sealant on the splines in the shaft to I guess keep oil leaking out past the splines.

But before removing nut. You mark the nuts location to housing and yoke and count number of thread above nut. Then tighten it back to where all the marks line up. Some say the nut is a one use only nut and should be replaced every time. But seems like that's more risk of messing up the pre-load if the new nut wasn't tightened down correctly.

Any particular brand to recommend for the bushing and transmission seal? And also the rear pinion seal? Don't know if this is one of those deals best to stick with Ac/Delco GM parts or aftermarket just as good or better than OE.

Thanks

 

I reuse my pinion nut. No problems.I marked it as you said.A digital calliper will tell you if your whole is not around. Pound out the copper bushing before you measure the whole roundness on the tail shaft housing. I would be very surprised if you are out of round. Is there a reason to suspect you are out of round in the tail shaft housing that is what the bushings are designed to do to take the wear and then be replaced. I pounded mine out with a socket. And a hammer. if you are going through the trouble of pulling the driveshaft and the tail shaft housing and the CBM, I'm not sure why you would not just pound out the bushing in pound a new one in. it takes about five minutes to do that. Most of the labour is in getting to the tail shaft housing and getting to the rear pinion seal.


my bushing and O ring for the tail shaft and pinion seal were all ordered on eBay

 

The tailshaft seal as been leaking for years. But recently started to make a squeal creak sound that I tracked down to coming from extension housing via my stethoscope.

But I grabbed the driveshaft to wobble it around to check ujoints, and noticed the yoke wobble around in the extension housing. I figured there's a good chance the yoke is scored i.e. needs replaced. Don't know till removed. I was just thinking of ordering a new yoke along with new ujoints. But I'll probably just wait since at the time I didn't think of also having to have the driveshaft balanced by replacing the yoke.