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There might be some things to consider other than just SPEEDO/ODO correction. It might be nice to wait and see if someone with a '94+ might post and be able to maybe mention if thhere are any other differences in the "tune" 2.59 to the 3.07. I'd think with the e-version of the 4L60 that there very well could be. If you wanted to do any other minor tweaks now would be the time to consider it. Do you have the 3.07 bought/installed yet OR - you've time to plan?
I have time to plan,looking for good deal on D36 pumpkin 3.07.Just missed one in forum,was $275. Went fast,to first chime in I believe,Oh well keep locking.
I have time to plan,looking for good deal on D36 pumpkin 3.07.Just missed one in forum,was $275. Went fast,to first chime in I believe,Oh well keep locking.
Why would you want a D36? There is a reason it is cheap. Usually because it is less desirable.
Why would you want a D36? There is a reason it is cheap. Usually because it is less desirable.
The D36 certainly seems to do the job for most. Lack of proper maintenance will kill any rear. I didn't know that a D36 was "CHEAP" - availability seems to dictate/create pricing. Maybe you meant "lesser quality" as "CHEAP" and I don't believe that either.
If your 1996 is like my 1995 (IDK how your tune is since mines OBDI not OBDII) but your shift points will be off to. (In 95 the shift points are by speed not rpm so when I when from 2.59 to 3.54. I put used tuner cat to change my rear gear ratio in the tune and then went on a drive it was bouncing off the limiter without shifting at WOT (wide open throttle) the good news is my speedometer was reading correctly.