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have a 94 c4 with 3.08 rear, 1800 stall, and hotcam kit. currently has early shift and want to change the shifting to later (around 5500 to 6000 range) further apart.
anyone know which b&m weights and springs to use, from the recalibration kit? figure to post on the forum vs going trial/error route. let me know what your using. thanks
I'm not to helpful but i used a transgo 700p shift kit with stick option on my c4 when i rebuilt the trans.
while I'm not a big fan of their instructions (like it was written by a mentally challenged hipster, or maybe stoned) i was able to do some tuning with the shift points.
What i really like about my transmission post mod is shifting it manually.
I'll put the car in od if i dont want whiplash shifts, and if i plan on leaving everyone in the dust i shift manually.
post mod i get instant shifts when i move the stick, and it will hold the gear until something breaks if i want to.
Regardless.. Gibbles is right. On the 700, a good shift kit will let you tune the shift points by changing the governor springs. (Some also modify the weights as well.)
You can get these separately. They're also pretty generalized. If you have light springs laying around that fit? You can use those too. It doesn't matter, although you won't get the benefit of the full kit.
But the "E" unit is different. "E" stands for "Electronic" and you'll have to change that with a tuner.
On the E, you grab the shifter and you move the manual valve in the valve body, pump up the forward clutch and you go.. But from there, the computer sets the shift schedule.
So, it takes a tuner.
In either unit, beware cheap "shift kits" for racing. Some of the better ones actually do things to increase the capacity of the transmission. Not a tremendous amount, but it matters.
Whereas some of the cheap ones basically just increase feed orifice size and/or stiffen the accumulators to make the shift feel rockin, but it doesn't do much else. If that is all you want, you can do that with a drill bit, almost for free.
yes, it's a 94 with a 700r4 (prior owner replaced the 4l60e, not sure why).
the 700r4 has a shift kit. when driving the gears shift sooner then it's should. is there a chart or some kind that has the b&m governor weigth/spring and shows the shift rpm range?
yes, it's a 94 with a 700r4 (prior owner replaced the 4l60e, not sure why).
That would seem to have been a very difficult to accomplish swap, you state it very matter of factly so it's difficult to dispute BUT how was the TV accomplished. It just seems to be a very complicated package to do unless there was much more done also.
Is it still PCM engine control? ASR, TV, TB and all controls are just vastly different from ECM/4L60 and PCM/4L60e. How was VSS for speedo/odo done?
yeah. he putted all of of the stock drive train out. the c4 was stock, then went to the 1/4 track car, then made it back to street(using the stock lt1 but mild modify). the orig motor was pulled and set aside for the track motor.
i searched around the net for combo of weigth/spring to rpm. came across this link, but no one says if the combo worked for them.
OP, you are probably wanting a straight answer about the governor kits....the reason you are getting questions and clarification requests is because it depends on what you are running right now which sounds very modified.
if you have a 700r4 then u have a TV cable right? These will affect pressures which will affect shift points.
i thought the solution on my 700r4 was a different governor kit....it wasnt....it was the prom chip!
what year engine do you have in it now?
what year 700r4 do u have in now?
is there a tv cable installed? if yes what length / part number?
if you want to ho ahead and trial and error, general rule of thumb is to decrease weight and increase spring strentgh and that will give you higher shifts. not sure why u would want that though.
When I was running a 700R4, I spent a lot of time dialing in the shift points for part throttle and full throttle shifts. I bought 2 B&M kits; swapped out springs and weights and use those provided with the kits and stock governor setups. I even ground down some of the weights to custom lighten them. Springs affect mainly part throttle shifting; weights mainly full throttle shifting although they are both interrelated. A stronger spring will give higher part throttle shift points, a lighter weight will give higher full throttle shift points. Good luck.
Ebay has the generic kits that are cheaper and like 383vette I bought a 2nd to dial it in better(not done that yet). It's mostly trial & error and you will still have to prob take it out a few times, but you have same gear same so this may get you close(disclaimer this could be too high for your exact combo so you need to be careful). 6g & 8g(two holes drilled, maybe 1/8" bit can't rem but I drilled them in the corners at the out side of the weight) purple and orange spring 5900 1-2 and 5700 2-3, change the orange to yellow and it might be both 5700 shifts.
Take notes and keep track of each change. I tried to mod one of the stock weights and another out of the kit but went too far and would have to weld on them to fix. I just bought another kit cause I wanted to try two of the same strength springs or even weights.
edit: Still waking up n reread my notes, also g=grams and the 6 & 8 is not exact.
edit2: two holes are both on the 8g only incase that wasn't clear an I'd suggest trying it w/o 1st it'll only shift lower w/o them.
Ebay has the generic kits that are cheaper and like 383vette I bought a 2nd to dial it in better(not done that yet). It's mostly trial & error and you will still have to prob take it out a few times, but you have same gear same so this may get you close(disclaimer this could be too high for your exact combo so you need to be careful). 6g & 8g(two holes drilled, maybe 1/8" bit can't rem but I drilled them in the corners at the out side of the weight) purple and orange spring 5900 1-2 and 5700 2-3, change the orange to yellow and it might be both 5700 shifts.
Take notes and keep track of each change. I tried to mod one of the stock weights and another out of the kit but went too far and would have to weld on them to fix. I just bought another kit cause I wanted to try two of the same strength springs or even weights.
edit: Still waking up n reread my notes, also g=grams and the 6 & 8 is not exact.
edit2: two holes are both on the 8g only incase that wasn't clear an I'd suggest trying it w/o 1st it'll only shift lower w/o them.
Like Boot says, it takes a lot of time. I probably made 15-20 changes and although I got close, I never got it perfect. I finally switched to a 4060E with no regrets. All shift points can be exactly dialed in with a laptop. If I need 50 more rpm at the 2-3 shift, it can be done in 20 seconds without affecting anything else. Others may have had more success than me. I'm sort of particular about things like this. Good luck.
yes, it's a 94 with a 700r4 (prior owner replaced the 4l60e, not sure why).
the 700r4 has a shift kit. when driving the gears shift sooner then it's should. is there a chart or some kind that has the b&m governor weigth/spring and shows the shift rpm range?
Maybe they have one but, like others here say, in practical application you are usually left just changing springs and/or modding the governor in a kind of trial and error basis.
Many people prefer the "E" for this reason. You have to "old school" the hydraulic units.
The good news is it's not terribly expensive to do. Just kind of a pain. Little time consuming like that.
If it is shifting way, way, early you may find the governor stuck or damaged, and save some time there.