Door Ajar Switch
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 254
From: Downers Grove Illinois
Door Ajar Switch
I recently purchased a door ajar switch for my '92 coupe. My hatch release switch on that side wasn't working and by checking the FSM I realized that if the door ajar switch doesn't work that the hatch won't release. I used a multimeter to test the hatch release switch on that side and it was good.
I received the shipment from the vendor of the door ajar switch yesterday and installed it after work. It has a similar problem as the switch that was in there. The barrel of the switch has lateral movement and depending where it sits when opening and closing the door it doesn't always complete the circuit. Sometimes the lights come on when I open up the door and the hatch switch functions and sometimes it doesn't. I had to take the door panel off and since it is off does anyone know of a vendor that has a reliable door ajar switch? I will call the vendor later about the one I received and hope they send out a good one.
Thanks!
I received the shipment from the vendor of the door ajar switch yesterday and installed it after work. It has a similar problem as the switch that was in there. The barrel of the switch has lateral movement and depending where it sits when opening and closing the door it doesn't always complete the circuit. Sometimes the lights come on when I open up the door and the hatch switch functions and sometimes it doesn't. I had to take the door panel off and since it is off does anyone know of a vendor that has a reliable door ajar switch? I will call the vendor later about the one I received and hope they send out a good one.
Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
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No but try pulling out the plunger but not very hopful sounds like a crappie switch. You do not have to take the door panel off to change them. Just loosen the top screw then remove the bottom screw. Then turn the switch then reinstall the bottom screw to hold the backup plate. You will see what to do from there. I believe the center hatch button will still work.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Oct 19, 2016 at 08:25 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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I would think that since you've removed the trim pad already you familiarize yourself with the procedure that requires "NO REMOVAL" of it and put the car back together less the switch. Then when you have a switch that functions correctly it's very straight forward and quickly accomplished.
I've not purchased a switch from any of the vendors, I've bought OE/GM in the past with never receiving a "dud".
I believe I recall that Keen was maybe the first of the "resellers" that announced the switch. I've no purchasing experience from them but I've a friend that buys regularly from them I believe. At one time they maybe had some that were actually just misassembled but were OE/GM with connector orientation difference.
Where's your current one from? You really want a second from the same source?
I've not purchased a switch from any of the vendors, I've bought OE/GM in the past with never receiving a "dud".
I believe I recall that Keen was maybe the first of the "resellers" that announced the switch. I've no purchasing experience from them but I've a friend that buys regularly from them I believe. At one time they maybe had some that were actually just misassembled but were OE/GM with connector orientation difference.
Where's your current one from? You really want a second from the same source?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 254
From: Downers Grove Illinois
No but try pulling out the plunger but not very hopful sounds like a crappie switch. You do not have to take the door panel off to change them. Just loosen the top screw then remove the bottom screw. Then turn the switch then reinstall the bottom screw to hold the backup plate. You will see what to do from there.
I also found that at one time there must have been a mouse living in there from the PO's home as I found all kinds of seeds in there. I had previously found the same seeds under the rear hatch trim near the latch. Fortunately I have not found any wiring damage on the car.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 254
From: Downers Grove Illinois
I would think that since you've removed the trim pad already you familiarize yourself with the procedure that requires "NO REMOVAL" of it and put the car back together less the switch. Then when you have a switch that functions correctly it's very straight forward and quickly accomplished.
I've not purchased a switch from any of the vendors, I've bought OE/GM in the past with never receiving a "dud".
I believe I recall that Keen was maybe the first of the "resellers" that announced the switch. I've no purchasing experience from them but I've a friend that buys regularly from them I believe. At one time they maybe had some that were actually just misassembled but were OE/GM with connector orientation difference.
Where's your current one from? You really want a second from the same source?
I've not purchased a switch from any of the vendors, I've bought OE/GM in the past with never receiving a "dud".
I believe I recall that Keen was maybe the first of the "resellers" that announced the switch. I've no purchasing experience from them but I've a friend that buys regularly from them I believe. At one time they maybe had some that were actually just misassembled but were OE/GM with connector orientation difference.
Where's your current one from? You really want a second from the same source?
I bought it from Zip Corvette.
Last edited by JimLentz; Oct 19, 2016 at 08:41 AM.
Race Director
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Not sure what switch you have then. They are the same from 88 to 96. I would still try to pull the plunger out all the way then shut the door to ajust. But your call. 
Last edited by antfarmer2; Oct 19, 2016 at 08:53 AM.
Team Owner
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 254
From: Downers Grove Illinois
I can open the hatch with the switch in the center console and the switch in the drivers door, but the passenger one wasn't working. It's not a big deal, but I wanted to fix it. The locking tabs on the passengers hatch release switch are broken off, but I think I can fix that without replacing that switch as it is functional.
I have the original switch here at work and will pull the plunger out and see if I can make it work for me.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 254
From: Downers Grove Illinois
Thanks, I will take a closer look tonight. I did wiggle the wire last night thinking along the same lines and it didn't seem to help. Moving the barrel of the switch laterally seemed to make the switch make and break connection, which it should not do. Either way it seems like I should have more slack in that harness.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 254
From: Downers Grove Illinois
I just got off the phone with Zip and they have been having problems with the switch. He says he has none in stock and they only have one vendor so any replacement will likely have the same issue. He originally was going to have me ship the switch back to get the credit, but ultimately just credited me for the cost of the switch. I wonder if the switch I took out of the car was similar, it only has the number stamped 141 in white on the body, that doesn't sound like a standard GM part number.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,344
Likes: 2,727
I just got off the phone with Zip and they have been having problems with the switch. He says he has none in stock and they only have one vendor so any replacement will likely have the same issue. He originally was going to have me ship the switch back to get the credit, but ultimately just credited me for the cost of the switch. I wonder if the switch I took out of the car was similar, it only has the number stamped 141 in white on the body, that doesn't sound like a standard GM part number.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 254
From: Downers Grove Illinois
Well maybe you just ask the next vendor you contact if they have similar issues. I'd maybe avoid the MASS MARKET resellers and try to get a person that actually "understands" the issue you're questioning. ZIP guys are quite knowledgeable and I'd think the guys at Keen also. The larger with "order takers" I'd maybe avoid.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,309
Likes: 2,231
From: Central Maryland
There should be enough slack in the wiring to R&R the switch without removing the door panel. I've done it several times. Somebody may have secured your wiring (tape, zip-ties, etc) in some way that's reducing the amount of freedom it could have.
GM part number for the switch is 10098478. Last time I checked, they were still available from dealer parts department.
Live well,
SJW
GM part number for the switch is 10098478. Last time I checked, they were still available from dealer parts department.
Live well,
SJW
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2001
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I haven't heard of an issue with the switch. The OEM was discontinued in 2012. This switch is somewhat fragile though and that is what you have to watch out for. The plunger is plastic and if your door is sagging at all it bends the plunger. This will keep it from popping back out when the door is open. Go ahead and pull the plunger out and see if it is straight or not, if not this is what is causing your issue.
Justin
Justin
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 781
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From: Myrtle Beach South Carolina
I bought one for my 95 from corvette America. Worked for about three months. It was past the 30 day warranty so I didn't even bother them with a warranty request. Before that I purchased a used one from eBay. Worked for a while. Now with reading here that there is only one manufacturer I suppose I'll go back to CA. I think my car eats those switches for a snack. 
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,344
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I haven't heard of an issue with the switch. The OEM was discontinued in 2012. This switch is somewhat fragile though and that is what you have to watch out for. The plunger is plastic and if your door is sagging at all it bends the plunger. This will keep it from popping back out when the door is open. Go ahead and pull the plunger out and see if it is straight or not, if not this is what is causing your issue.
Justin
Justin
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 254
From: Downers Grove Illinois
There should be enough slack in the wiring to R&R the switch without removing the door panel. I've done it several times. Somebody may have secured your wiring (tape, zip-ties, etc) in some way that's reducing the amount of freedom it could have.
GM part number for the switch is 10098478. Last time I checked, they were still available from dealer parts department.
Live well,
SJW
GM part number for the switch is 10098478. Last time I checked, they were still available from dealer parts department.
Live well,
SJW
Door ajar switch wiring.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 254
From: Downers Grove Illinois
There should be enough slack in the wiring to R&R the switch without removing the door panel. I've done it several times. Somebody may have secured your wiring (tape, zip-ties, etc) in some way that's reducing the amount of freedom it could have.
GM part number for the switch is 10098478. Last time I checked, they were still available from dealer parts department.
Live well,
SJW
GM part number for the switch is 10098478. Last time I checked, they were still available from dealer parts department.
Live well,
SJW