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power door locks v2

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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 11:14 PM
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Default power door locks v2

I have asked this question already once, but still no solution to my problem.
My power door locks work fine when both doors are open but once closed fail to work.
There have been no modifications to any systems in the car, no after maket parts added, the car is stock
I have replaced both door switch's
both door actuator"s
I replaced with a used off ebay the VATS mod (previous answer thought that item}
but i still can't make it work. Door closed system stops
does anybody have any other idea's?
Thanks

Last edited by lofti5; Oct 20, 2016 at 11:48 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 06:08 AM
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Try pulling out the door switch plungers all the way and close the door to ajust and turn the door key fully both ways.
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by lofti5
I have asked this question already once, but still no solution to my problem.
My power door locks work fine when both doors are open but once closed fail to work.
There have been no modifications to any systems in the car, no after maket parts added, the car is stock
I have replaced both door switch's
both door actuator"s
I replaced with a used off ebay the VATS mod (previous answer thought that item}
but i still can't make it work. Door closed system stops
does anybody have any other idea's?
Thanks
Questions
What year Car?

So when the PDL (Power Door Locks) work, are both doors open? or one or the other only open.

If both doors are shut, the PDL switches will not allow to lock/unlock?


You said no aftermarket stuff installed.. Are you the original owner? if not, how did you confirm there is no aftermarket stuff
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Old Oct 22, 2016 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-
Questions
What year Car?

So when the PDL (Power Door Locks) work, are both doors open? or one or the other only open.

If both doors are shut, the PDL switches will not allow to lock/unlock?


You said no aftermarket stuff installed.. Are you the original owner? if not, how did you confirm there is no aftermarket stuff



It is a 1989 with 128k miles. I am not the original owner, my wife inherited the car from her grandfather. He is says that only regular maintenace was done on it.
It is the strangest thing. Locks work fine when doors are open but when shut you can barely move them. I tried replacing the security module but no luck.
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Old Oct 22, 2016 | 04:43 PM
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When you say hardly move, I assume manually.. hard both directions?

So so your wife's grandfather bought it new? 89 has 2 door switches/ pins. To detect an open door. I have to wonder if one is shorted.

Get someone one to help you. With both doors open, manually push I one of the door switches, seenifnyouvcan recreate the issue. One pin is towards the front of the door mounted in the jamb. Other is at the back of the door. If one of the switches pressed in causes your issues then you have a better chance of finding the issue. Try this and post back results
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Old Oct 22, 2016 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-
When you say hardly move, I assume manually.. hard both directions?

So so your wife's grandfather bought it new? 89 has 2 door switches/ pins. To detect an open door. I have to wonder if one is shorted.

Get someone one to help you. With both doors open, manually push I one of the door switches, seenifnyouvcan recreate the issue. One pin is towards the front of the door mounted in the jamb. Other is at the back of the door. If one of the switches pressed in causes your issues then you have a better chance of finding the issue. Try this and post back results
the locks stop working when you push in the door arm switch either door same results, system stops unlocking or locking the doors. I have replaced the Theft Deterrent Controller, it was used, so I can't still elimilinate that possibility

Last edited by lofti5; Oct 22, 2016 at 08:50 PM.
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Old Oct 22, 2016 | 08:58 PM
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What are you referring to as the 'door arm switch'?
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Old Oct 23, 2016 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-
What are you referring to as the 'door arm switch'?
I think maybe I jumped to fast at your answer, I went to my GM manual and have been chasing wires all night on the diagram. If I'm reading things correctly the door ajar switch can't have anything to do with the door locks not working, it would have to be the Jam switch that plays into the TDM(UTD).???
So I'm going to retest door switches this morning and report back.The only small thing that maybe the door ajar and the right side door lock switch have is the #150 wire which is a ground
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Old Oct 23, 2016 | 01:14 PM
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Right the switches cannot, unless they are shorted in the harness. Based off of the comments that the door must be open to work has me leading to believe there could be a short somewhere
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Old Oct 23, 2016 | 01:24 PM
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You never posted back to the original thread you started. What is the part # on the eBay product that you bought and installed? If you look at the 8A-130 and the 8A-133 CELL in the FSM you'll see why I mentioned the TDM. Can you make the Theft Deterrent (Forced Entry) work as designed?

You might study the Forced Entry diagnostics.

The Forced Entry diagnostics look to be very straight forward. Diagnostics for each CELL follows the diagram in the FSM and also references component locations.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Oct 23, 2016 at 01:26 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2016 | 01:37 PM
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If he needs an 89 TDM I think I have one from my old 89. Worked when removed
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Old Oct 23, 2016 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
You never posted back to the original thread you started. What is the part # on the eBay product that you bought and installed? If you look at the 8A-130 and the 8A-133 CELL in the FSM you'll see why I mentioned the TDM. Can you make the Theft Deterrent (Forced Entry) work as designed?

You might study the Forced Entry diagnostics.

The Forced Entry diagnostics look to be very straight forward. Diagnostics for each CELL follows the diagram in the FSM and also references component locations.
GM#16039969 was the item I purchased TDM(UTD)
And yes sir I have gone through the 8a-130-2 cell, I get positive results on all accounts, the only thing I haven't tried is with the doors closed, as when I close either door the system shuts off.
And I haven't gone through all the diagnostic steps for the Forced Entry. So I have some more steps to do
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Old Oct 23, 2016 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
You never posted back to the original thread you started. What is the part # on the eBay product that you bought and installed? If you look at the 8A-130 and the 8A-133 CELL in the FSM you'll see why I mentioned the TDM. Can you make the Theft Deterrent (Forced Entry) work as designed?

You might study the Forced Entry diagnostics.

The Forced Entry diagnostics look to be very straight forward. Diagnostics for each CELL follows the diagram in the FSM and also references component locations.
And I did take apart one of my TDM's tested all the resistors and they all seem to be ok, mind you I'm not an electrical engineer or anything close to that but I can use a multimeter
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Old Oct 23, 2016 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by lofti5
GM#16039969 was the item I purchased TDM(UTD)
And yes sir I have gone through the 8a-130-2 cell, I get positive results on all accounts, the only thing I haven't tried is with the doors closed, as when I close either door the system shuts off.
And I haven't gone through all the diagnostic steps for the Forced Entry. So I have some more steps to do
Did that match the # from the car that you removed? I think you do the "forced entry" diagnostics and make that system work before being actually concerned with the lock functions.

Take a read of 8A-133-7, it somewhat summarizes ARMING and maybe spending more time with the FE diagnostics will do you well.

*** For your particular set of circumstances and considering the car's been in the family since new maybe you do a read of the owners manual regarding the Forced Entry. That might be very useful I'd think. Do you have it? Maybe someone with it could scan and email to you if it's more than a single page. I'd maybe want it from the '89 though previous years could be very similar. I've had nothing '89 or earlier.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Oct 23, 2016 at 03:45 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2016 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
Did that match the # from the car that you removed? I think you do the "forced entry" diagnostics and make that system work before being actually concerned with the lock functions.

Take a read of 8A-133-7, it somewhat summarizes ARMING and maybe spending more time with the FE diagnostics will do you well.

*** For your particular set of circumstances and considering the car's been in the family since new maybe you do a read of the owners manual regarding the Forced Entry. That might be very useful I'd think. Do you have it? Maybe someone with it could scan and email to you if it's more than a single page. I'd maybe want it from the '89 though previous years could be very similar. I've had nothing '89 or earlier.
TO WVZR1 & JEFF and others

after all my buying parts and everything else the problem is the #150 wire in the right door ajar switch, I put a jumper to the B terminal on the door lock switch and everything works like it should
would like to say thanks to both of you for the help, and the others that added comments, you both made me rethink the problem and found it.
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