L98 89 - No start - Help
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Naestved
L98 89 - No start - Help
Car wont start now, after some projects.
Dash light up - with key on.
First thought it was the VATS system - so made a bypass.
No start.
Battery OK.
Car starts and runs when I jump the starter - so starter OK.
Bypassed the starter relay behind the DIC panel.
Still no start.
No security light.
Also bypassed the clutch switch.
Any ideas
?
Dash light up - with key on.
First thought it was the VATS system - so made a bypass.
No start.
Battery OK.
Car starts and runs when I jump the starter - so starter OK.
Bypassed the starter relay behind the DIC panel.
Still no start.
No security light.
Also bypassed the clutch switch.
Any ideas
?
Last edited by Baddabing; Oct 23, 2016 at 05:52 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,895
Likes: 592
From: New Port Richey FL
Car wont start now, after some projects.
First thought it was the VATS system - so made a bypass.
No start.
Battery OK.
Car starts and runs when I jump the starter - so starter OK.
Bypassed the starter relay behind the DIC panel.
Still no start.
No security light.
Also bypassed the clutch switch.
Any ideas ?
First thought it was the VATS system - so made a bypass.
No start.
Battery OK.
Car starts and runs when I jump the starter - so starter OK.
Bypassed the starter relay behind the DIC panel.
Still no start.
No security light.
Also bypassed the clutch switch.
Any ideas
?
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 74
Likes: 5
From: Naestved
Where is the crank fuse ?
Didnt know about Fusible links related to starting the car.
Have not tested the ignition switch - normally it dies slowly (tried that in my C5).
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,895
Likes: 592
From: New Port Richey FL
One very helpful Thing to have and I am sure this is no Big Surprise is a True FSM not a hays/Chiltons for your Year, Worth the Extra Dollars for the Factory books
Last edited by s carter; Oct 23, 2016 at 05:59 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 74
Likes: 5
From: Naestved
Checked Fusible links - all ok.
Can the VATS module go bad ?
Ignition switch on a C4 - is there a simple test procedure ?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,895
Likes: 592
From: New Port Richey FL
I'm running off 30 year old memory's is back probe the terminals once you Know what color wire goes with the crank request down on the column Long Flat Connector and make sure the plug is good now it's all part of the Basics,
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 42
From: Baltimore, MD USA
If it does that tells you the Pass Key Decoder Module is grounding the starter enable relay and 12 volts should pass thru the relay to the Clutch Safety switch.
The 12 volts passes thru the Clutch Safety switch on a Purple wire to the Starter solenoid.
If the Starter Solenoid clicks but the Starter motor doesn't spin that usually indicates the copper contact on the Starter Solenoid plunger that makes contact with the copper contacts connected to the starter motor windings are pitted and need to be replaced.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Oct 23, 2016 at 11:35 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 74
Likes: 5
From: Naestved
When you turn the ignition switch to Start you should hear the starter enable relay behind the driver info center click.
If it does that tells you the Pass Key Decoder Module is grounding the starter enable relay and 12 volts should pass thru the relay to the Clutch Safety switch.
The 12 volts passes thru the Clutch Safety switch on a Purple wire to the Starter solenoid.
If the Starter Solenoid clicks but the Starter motor doesn't spin that usually indicates the copper contact on the Starter Solenoid plunger that makes contact with the copper contacts connected to the starter motor windings are pitted and need to be replaced.
If it does that tells you the Pass Key Decoder Module is grounding the starter enable relay and 12 volts should pass thru the relay to the Clutch Safety switch.
The 12 volts passes thru the Clutch Safety switch on a Purple wire to the Starter solenoid.
If the Starter Solenoid clicks but the Starter motor doesn't spin that usually indicates the copper contact on the Starter Solenoid plunger that makes contact with the copper contacts connected to the starter motor windings are pitted and need to be replaced.
There was a click behind the dash - before I bypassed the relay, and the Clutch Safety switch is also bypassed, so the solution is a new starter ?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 42
From: Baltimore, MD USA
There is a direct connection from the positive battery terminal to the starter motor lug. It's HOT all the time.
The Purple wire at the Starter solenoid lug should have 12 volts on it when the ignition switch is in Start.
There is also a fusible link at the Starter motor terminal lug which is used for the Blower motor module. That is not your problem.
For safety reasons, make sure you remove the bypass jumper you installed on the Clutch Safety Switch. You don't want the starter to engage unless the Clutch pedal is depressed.
You said you jumped the Stater motor and it worked so it could be bad wiring connections at the Starter. The only way to verify is by measuring the voltage at each wire.
Also verify the ground wire from the negative battery terminal to the engine block is clean.
The video below explains how the copper contacts in the Nippondenso starter work. Usually if the copper contacts are bad you will hear a loud click at the Starter motor but the Starter doesn't spin.
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Oct 24, 2016 at 12:56 PM.