C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

What heads? Cam?

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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 11:34 AM
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Default What heads? Cam?

I have a 383 l98 with reworked 113 heads and a current 9.5 compression. Speed pro hypereutectic pistons scat cast crank. Long tube headers, no cats.

I have purchased accel 300+, small cap hei distributor blaster coil. Holley stealth ram (modifying hood) 36 lb injectors, and bbk throttle bidy, got a really good deal.... Problem is the intake is the 1206 variety and I'm not sure it will go on the 113 heads.

So, IF I have to swap out the heads, what are the best ones to get, and what cam would work best for the head/intake combo?

Unfortunately money is an issue (as always) so bang for the buck suggestions are appreciated.
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 01:26 PM
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A lot depends on how your 113 heads were "reworked". I'm not sure the input ports can be expanded all the way to a 1206 gasket, but they don't have to be "perfect" for a budget build. If you can find a set of AFR eliminator 195 heads, the ports ARE 1206...and the HSR will match as it sits from the factory.

Lift restrictions on the 113 heads limit your cam choices. Again, I'm thinking the mods to your heads dictate how big you can go. I don't remember for sure, but I'm thinking .520-.525 is about the most lift they can tolerate. Cam choice can vary based on goals too.

As a starting point for your discussion, I'll throw out the ZZ409 cam. It's a 226/226 112LSA with .520 lift w 1.5 rockers. I think it'll go "under" your 113 heads yet expand to .555 with 1.6 rockers (if you swap heads). The 113's often dictate at least a little more exhaust duration because exhaust ports aren't "the best" but I keep in mind the Lingenfelter superram cam is a single-pattern (219) too. Of course the 219 SR cam was designed for the 113 heads. You want at least a bit more duration for the stoker motor which is why I'm suggesting the ZZ409 as a starting point. It'll work with the 113s as well as bigger/better heads. The lobes are bit milder (which helps with longevity and spring requirements). If you opt for more power, you might want to expand duration into the 230's and/or look at lobes with faster ramps.

One thing about the AFR 195s is they flow so well they work with "smaller cams"...making them a good upgrade using a cam that will work with the limit of the 113's lift.


TPIS ZZ409 Link
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 02:45 PM
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Will try to dig up the paperwork from the rebuild 5 years or so ago, I remember they were "bowl hogged" 2.02 intake and 3 angle valve job, don't remember any other upgrades and the cam was pretty mild.
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 03:48 PM
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I was wrong on the crank it seems, but here is a run down of the build sheet.


Bored .030 ballanced
full recon on heads 2.02 stainless 1.6 ex 3 angle bowlhawged valve job
milled .0019
103523750571 eagle crank
sir7000bblw eagle full float rods
h90cp 0.30 speed pro pistons 9.5-1
08-5032-8 comp roller cam
2148 roller lifters prw roller 1.5 rockers
direct fit headers

Though that cam was replaced with a smaller one. I originally had a little boost on this motor or the compression would be higher, a little change in that department might do some good.
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Old Oct 30, 2016 | 04:52 PM
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Default Always measure compression before choosing parts.

You need to nail your compression ratio before choosing parts. The only way to match parts that complement your requirements is find out what your engine has for static compression ratio. From there you can choose heads to run with the duration of cam you want to run.

Keep in mind the driveline has some impact here. If you have highway gearing your gonna want a shorter cam and somewhat lower compression to support that. If you have steep ratio drag racing gearing you would want a much higher compression ratio to install a long duration camshaft.

So to nail your compression ratio you need to measure it with liquid and not estimate it from published numbers - to great a chance of error for that. IIWM i would remove the heads and use a small piece of plexiglass sealed on the top of cylinder with thick red axle grease and measure the volume above a piston with liquid (oil or alcohol) at TDC - u need to seal the ring crevasse area with a small amount of grease for this. Now you have as accurate a piston volume as any racing team has.

Now you can choose the heads with volume chambers to get you the cam duration you want to run with. I believe all the L98 heads were GEN I style bolt pattern and there are plenty of those to choose from. Not sure which sbc heads are the "very best" anymore but if you can afford AFR they won't do you wrong. 383" would like larger runners in he 195cc range.

BTW bowl hogged i believe means valves are unshrouded where the metal on the wall side of valve is removed to aid flow on that side. Or it could mean the chamber is just opened up to reduce compression. Anyways you will find out once you remove the heads. Yes you should remove the heads and measure compression volume first before ordering parts. You get to inspect things in there too.

Hope this helped. Good luck.
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 01:58 PM
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Agree you need to nail down the CR.

ZZ409 would be a good cam, I'd at least go with that 226/226 range. With the 383 you can go larger but I would probably keep it below around 240/240, unless you're building this thing to road race or something.

A 383 will do well with a minimum of 185cc heads, Dart Pro 1 is a good cheaper brand. Personally with that intake on a 383, I'd do 195-200cc heads.
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 02:21 PM
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If you need to determine your compression see if you can talk to the guys who run your local circle track racing tech, most of the groups have a "Whistler" compression ratio tester, see if they can get you an idea on your compression.http://store.katechengines.com/whist...ster-p174.aspx

I also do not believe you really need to be that accurate with the compression, the 9.5 estimate from your engine builder is good enough to pick a cam. If you decide to pick heads you should determine the original head cc volume, I would not want to go lower on the compression if the original heads were in the 58cc range and you choose the larger more typical 64cc head.

Last edited by bjankuski; Oct 31, 2016 at 02:33 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 09:09 AM
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Actually the AFR 195 street head uses a 1205 gasket. The AFR 195 comp port uses a 1206 gasket.
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tpi 421 vette
Actually the AFR 195 street head uses a 1205 gasket. The AFR 195 comp port uses a 1206 gasket.
The thinking here was just to get an idea. A starting point if you will.

This project has to be done on a pretty strict budget, using pretty much all used parts preferably purchased for about 30% of new part prices.

The AFR are a little out of my range, but they gave me something to compare to.

The cam I am having less luck finding
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tpi 421 vette
Actually the AFR 195 street head uses a 1205 gasket. The AFR 195 comp port uses a 1206 gasket.
My mistake. I remembered the gasket numbers wrong. But I knew the HSR matched my street AFR 195's.

Rbates: When you say the HSR is "the 1206 variety", has it been ported? I only know if the "standard" and Vortec version from the factory. The miniram comes in a 1204, 1205, and 1206 IIRC, but the HSR is setup for the middle of those port sizes. The HSR on my shelf matches the AFR Street Eliminators -- which a 1205 port.

An HSR can be hogged out to a 1206 intake. Is that what you have?
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 03:49 PM
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Ported to 1206. I think a 1205 head will work with the 1206 intake, even if not optimal.

Depending on the particular heads I have, I may be able to port my 113's out to a 1205 size, and then use the 1206 intake.

I won't actually have my hands on the HSR until monday, and then I should know better.
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