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Hoping someone can provide us sound advice on the use of nitrous on my 383 stroker. My engine has all forged internals, roughly 11.25 compression, LE 3 heads, 36 lb. injectors, 4.10 gears and RPM Level V auto trans. After going through a lot of frustration, I finally have gotten the car to run consistent 11.80s at 115 despite only managing 60 ft times of 1.80 to 1.90. If I can get the car to hook up better, I'm pretty sure that as-is she can run 11.50s if not better. I'd like to get the thing to really fly and am considering adding a 100-150 shot of nitrous, but I don't know a damn thing about it. A couple of questions ... (1) how much can I expect to improve my current ETs with a 100-150 shot, (2) how much can I expect to spend on a good nitrous setup, (3) would using nitrous require any additional internal engine mods, (4) what are the typical changes that need to be made to the tune (chip) when using nitrous with this type motor?
Hoping someone can provide us sound advice on the use of nitrous on my 383 stroker. My engine has all forged internals, roughly 11.25 compression, LE 3 heads, 36 lb. injectors, 4.10 gears and RPM Level V auto trans. After going through a lot of frustration, I finally have gotten the car to run consistent 11.80s at 115 despite only managing 60 ft times of 1.80 to 1.90. If I can get the car to hook up better, I'm pretty sure that as-is she can run 11.50s if not better. I'd like to get the thing to really fly and am considering adding a 100-150 shot of nitrous, but I don't know a damn thing about it. A couple of questions ... (1) how much can I expect to improve my current ETs with a 100-150 shot, (2) how much can I expect to spend on a good nitrous setup, (3) would using nitrous require any additional internal engine mods, (4) what are the typical changes that need to be made to the tune (chip) when using nitrous with this type motor?
Thanks ........ WS
Hi
Forged internals is that forged pistons forged steel rods and crank, that means go for it
If its hypereutectic pistons forged steel rods and forged steel crank, limit the shot to 100 hp.
20 years ago I had a car with nitrous, I had a multi stage setup that would have a 75hp shot to get of the line with limited wheel spin and a 200 hp shot a couple of seconds later that worked great over the quarter mile.
I cannot remember the name of the NOS system but it had 4 solenoid valves, am sure they would have better multi stage systems out now.
The legalities of having NOS equipped cars on the road here in OZ made me go to a blower.
Enjoy the NOS rush
Last edited by gerardvg; Oct 30, 2016 at 04:48 PM.
Thanks again, Will. I'll give them a call. Since mine is a '92, it sounds like I'll probably have to send my chip back to Ed Wright so he can take out a little bit of timing. I don't know how else to accomplish that mechanically.
if you also run it on the street then i beg you to go boost instead -else id hate to see you spend money on nitrous, not like it (as i did ) and then go boost.
i ran a 100 shot of nitrous, spraying right off the line, on my 93 6spd when it had hot cam. with drag radials and on boost, it gave me almost a full second faster ET (11.9) vs. off boost (12.8).
the biggest problem was that the hit (power increase) decreases at anything less than a full bottle.
***this is still true even if using a bottle heater to spray it at the same PSI.*** something about less liquid nitrous vs gaseous nitrous in the bottle...
this is unbelievably annoying - im not sure if any new tech exists to combat this. i had an nx wet system which was best at the time.
the other issue is as rpm increases, the tq boost falls off rapidly.
the guys that blew up their motors on nitrous usually leaned out or had dry systems (not as safe as wet systems).
one weak link is the stock fuel pump. there were a few lt1 guys here who were fine at 100 shot (on stock motors), but leaned out and detonated the first time they tried a 150 shot. imho the issue was the stock fuel pump couldnt keep up.
if you go boost, i wouldnt worry too much about the high compression. i believe you can
swap out heads for bigger cc afr heads to get the compression down