C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Clutch problems?

Old Nov 8, 2016 | 12:33 PM
  #21  
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So the brake test tells us that it only happens when the drive train is loaded, but the brakes load the differential and u-joints as much as they do the clutch. So I don't think that really isolates anything. But if you're pretty certain about the location of the sound, then hopefully you're right. I also hope it isn't something in the transmission! On the plus side, it's pretty rare that the ZF6 has a mechanical failure like that.
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Old Nov 8, 2016 | 04:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
So the brake test tells us that it only happens when the drive train is loaded
Not an expert, but .
No matter how good a description, a noise is very difficult to understand what it really means. The good news is that you probably needed to do this part anyway. A clicking might be heavy or lighter in nature and may relate to U-joints or even those pesky wheel bearings, including the washers, with noises that can be described as clicks, under load.
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Old Nov 10, 2016 | 11:08 PM
  #23  
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Sorry for the late reply but yes I understand that when I did the brake test it loads the whole drivetrain including the rear end and u joints. But what I was getting at is that I could for sure hear the noise from the transmission area but we'll see. My clutch and new u joints should be in soon and I will post back and let y'all know if it fixed it. Fingers crossed lol
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 02:31 PM
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with that kinda mileage you gotta believe everything is at, or near the end of it's useful life.

in my case, one of the first rehab's was replacing the six u joints and since the drive shaft and half shafts were out , it is an easy task to separate and drop the differential from the bat wing...when you do that, all should be revealed as far as drive line issues...

a huge mistake, especially with these cars is "fixing" one drive line issue and then putting everything back together only to find ...nope that either wasn't it..or it was only part of the problem.

on that note, BEFORE reinstalling the trans, leave the pilot bearing tool in place and have someone operate the clutch so you can visually verify that the clutch is indeed releasing and that there is no mechanical interference between the clutch fork, pressure plate, etc.

one other thing, now is the time to inspect and probably replace all the rear suspension bushings ....bad, worn out bushings and rear tie rod ends can generate a lot of noise, which may or may not be contributing to the issues you are experiencing.
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 10:33 PM
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Well I got the u joints in the driveshaft and the clutch showed up and I ordered the wrong one. I got a spring hub disk because I didn't think it would be an issue with the flywheel I have but I was wrong so now I'm waiting on the unsprung disk to get here. If this doesn't fix it my next place will be the washers that everyone talks about. In the meantime I sorted out the stereo. This car may have some running issues but it has one hell of a stereo in it. Whoever had it before put a full Rockford fosgate system in it.. Highly recommend them if anybody is wondering. But thanks for the comment about replacing the half shaft u joints I think im gonna run the ones in there till I know for sure there done
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 10:37 PM
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However I did look at all the tie rod ends and bushings when I initially discovered the noise and every suspension related part honestly looks pretty good. No movement or dry rot of the rubber anywhere. I assume most of it's been replaced because it looks really good for the age
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cole198
Well I got the u joints in the driveshaft and the clutch showed up and I ordered the wrong one. I got a spring hub disk because I didn't think it would be an issue with the flywheel I have but I was wrong so now I'm waiting on the unsprung disk to get here.
You have a single-mass (solid) flywheel, right? The sprung hub should be what you use with that. Are you sure it's a single-mass flywheel? It doesn't look like this, does it? If so, then it's the OE dual-mass unit that requires a solid disk. Were you able to find a brand and part number on your flywheel?
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
You have a single-mass (solid) flywheel, right? The sprung hub should be what you use with that. Are you sure it's a single-mass flywheel? It doesn't look like this, does it? If so, then it's the OE dual-mass unit that requires a solid disk. Were you able to find a brand and part number on your flywheel?
it does look like that so yes it would've the dual mass one I thought it was solid but glad I cleared that up. It's a valeo brand I'm not sure what part number. The flywheel itself was in pretty good shape so I don't see the need to replace it
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 11:40 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by cole198
it does look like that so yes it would've the dual mass one I thought it was solid but glad I cleared that up. It's a valeo brand I'm not sure what part number. The flywheel itself was in pretty good shape so I don't see the need to replace it
Ugh! Okay, that explains the clutch disk issue. Yes, Valeo was the OE clutch supplier. So now I am going to raise two questions that other members may need to answer, because I am not sure:
  1. Can a DMF safely be resurface? I am assuming you followed through on your plan to do that.
  2. The DMF has moving parts inside it. Is it possible that the noises you were hearing are explained by something breaking inside of your flywheel?
Before you move ahead, I would strongly urge you to contact Jim at powertorquesystems.com to discuss this. He may be able to help you make sure your DMF is in good shape and safe to reuse. If it appears to be a problem, then he can recommend a good SMF to replace it, in which case the sprung disk you have in hand will be what you want to use.
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 03:09 PM
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Okay it's been about 3 weeks but I finally got the right clutch in and got around to installing it. All told work time took me 8 hours to do everything. Now the results:
1. The new clutch is great, it is smooth engaging all around pretty good.
2. One thing I found interesting is that there is virtually no noise when the trans is idling in neutral now vs before it was just a loud transmission. Why that would've changed with just a new clutch is beyond me but I'm not complaining.
3. The original noise is still there..
So at this point in pretty convinced it's those Teflon washers people mentioned because it makes the noise when I'm accelerating hard and not when I'm just cruising around. But doesn't seem to be a major deal right now so I'll prolly wait a little while on it and just drive it.
Thanks again to all those who've helped!
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