LTCC guys
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 205
From: Trinity FL
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 16,097
Likes: 821
From: Dallas Texas
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Wires coming a day late. I guess cause of the holidays. Patrick, I was reading your thread for some info. Here's a quote "The two pink wires you solder to the single pink w/black stripe wire on the gray coil connector as well."
So only solder the two pink wires from LTCC, to the pink/black on gray connector? I ask because I see my car has two pink/black wires. And, as you know, LTCC instructions it comes with aren't the most detailed.
So only solder the two pink wires from LTCC, to the pink/black on gray connector? I ask because I see my car has two pink/black wires. And, as you know, LTCC instructions it comes with aren't the most detailed.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 16,097
Likes: 821
From: Dallas Texas
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Bob responded and said to connect the 2 pink LTCC wires to the pink with black on the gray OE coil connector. That is what Patrick said to, but I just wanted to make sure.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 205
From: Trinity FL
From post 41 
Thank you, there are four wires that I soldered.
LTCC to Factory Wiring
-Two Pink from LTCC to single pink w/black stripe on factory ICM connector.
-White wire with black dot from LTCC to white wire on gray factory coil connector
-Solid white wire from LTCC to solid white wire on factory ICM connector
The two yellow wires are for the activation of the two-step built in adjustable N2O / boost retard. I've heard of people connecting these wires to the window switch to activate it. I didn't delve much into this area as I plan on keeping near stock.
LTCC to Factory Wiring
-Two Pink from LTCC to single pink w/black stripe on factory ICM connector.
-White wire with black dot from LTCC to white wire on gray factory coil connector
-Solid white wire from LTCC to solid white wire on factory ICM connector
The two yellow wires are for the activation of the two-step built in adjustable N2O / boost retard. I've heard of people connecting these wires to the window switch to activate it. I didn't delve much into this area as I plan on keeping near stock.
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,686
Likes: 753
From: NEwhere Ohio
the funniest thing about doing an ltcc conversion is :::: you still are using the optispark!
the most failure prone side is not the high voltage side, but rathr the optical sensor which is still utilized...
ill happily stick with a quality OEM vented optispark with mitsubishi sensor.
if you had a bad experince with an MSD or cardone optispark then - well i guess you learned a hard lesson
did your oem opti fail on your 92-94? all you need to do is add a vent and rtv silicone the 2 halves as extra insurance
getting the optispark to work is not rocket science. the key is starting with a quality oem unit.
yes, you can find them on ebay. you need to know the right questions to ask and you need to know you arent going to pay $50 for it
the most failure prone side is not the high voltage side, but rathr the optical sensor which is still utilized...
ill happily stick with a quality OEM vented optispark with mitsubishi sensor.
if you had a bad experince with an MSD or cardone optispark then - well i guess you learned a hard lesson
did your oem opti fail on your 92-94? all you need to do is add a vent and rtv silicone the 2 halves as extra insurance
getting the optispark to work is not rocket science. the key is starting with a quality oem unit.
yes, you can find them on ebay. you need to know the right questions to ask and you need to know you arent going to pay $50 for it
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 205
From: Trinity FL
the funniest thing about doing an ltcc conversion is :::: you still are using the optispark!
the most failure prone side is not the high voltage side, but rathr the optical sensor which is still utilized...
ill happily stick with a quality OEM vented optispark with mitsubishi sensor.
if you had a bad experince with an MSD or cardone optispark then - well i guess you learned a hard lesson
did your oem opti fail on your 92-94? all you need to do is add a vent and rtv silicone the 2 halves as extra insurance
getting the optispark to work is not rocket science. the key is starting with a quality oem unit.
yes, you can find them on ebay. you need to know the right questions to ask and you need to know you arent going to pay $50 for it
the most failure prone side is not the high voltage side, but rathr the optical sensor which is still utilized...
ill happily stick with a quality OEM vented optispark with mitsubishi sensor.
if you had a bad experince with an MSD or cardone optispark then - well i guess you learned a hard lesson
did your oem opti fail on your 92-94? all you need to do is add a vent and rtv silicone the 2 halves as extra insurance
getting the optispark to work is not rocket science. the key is starting with a quality oem unit.
yes, you can find them on ebay. you need to know the right questions to ask and you need to know you arent going to pay $50 for it
With the LTCC the optispark is no longer an optiSPARK. It's just a crank sensor at that point.
You're right the high voltage side isn't the failure prone side, but it causes ozone build up, and overtime, will harm the sensor (the failure prone side).
Yes my factory OEM opti died.
No I could not find a quality OEM opti nor did I want to gamble on it.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 16,097
Likes: 821
From: Dallas Texas
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 16,097
Likes: 821
From: Dallas Texas
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
the funniest thing about doing an ltcc conversion is :::: you still are using the optispark!
the most failure prone side is not the high voltage side, but rathr the optical sensor which is still utilized...
ill happily stick with a quality OEM vented optispark with mitsubishi sensor.
if you had a bad experince with an MSD or cardone optispark then - well i guess you learned a hard lesson
did your oem opti fail on your 92-94? all you need to do is add a vent and rtv silicone the 2 halves as extra insurance
getting the optispark to work is not rocket science. the key is starting with a quality oem unit.
yes, you can find them on ebay. you need to know the right questions to ask and you need to know you arent going to pay $50 for it
the most failure prone side is not the high voltage side, but rathr the optical sensor which is still utilized...
ill happily stick with a quality OEM vented optispark with mitsubishi sensor.
if you had a bad experince with an MSD or cardone optispark then - well i guess you learned a hard lesson
did your oem opti fail on your 92-94? all you need to do is add a vent and rtv silicone the 2 halves as extra insurance
getting the optispark to work is not rocket science. the key is starting with a quality oem unit.
yes, you can find them on ebay. you need to know the right questions to ask and you need to know you arent going to pay $50 for it
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,686
Likes: 753
From: NEwhere Ohio
I know it still uses the opti. Did not have an MSD or cardone in it. I bought the car with a different opti. Why was it replaced? Not sure. Maybe someone power washed the engine? Who knows. I'm pretty sure if they still sold opti's with new mitsubishi sensors, this thread wouldn't exist.
at 26000 miles, my oem opti was bad on my 93 (when i bought it in 2001). it had rust inside it and shrunken/cracked seals. it had been 'washed'.
but i agree - eventually ebay sources for old oem spare optis will dry up and become inconsistent.
i am trying to persuade others to dig deep and look for quality oem units. ive done a lot of ranting about optispark threads here - i have been having good luck with my gen 2 ventes oem optispark (i converted the timing gear and cam over) . i bought the optispark used from tpi 421vette
put a thread in the parts for sale section here.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 16,097
Likes: 821
From: Dallas Texas
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Got it done today. Thank you to Patrick(torchtarga94), Bob Bailey, Twichy2011 and PLRX
It definitely has a better throttle response, not like it was bad before. No BS, but it revs faster and feels like it pulls better above 3,000 RPM. It wasn't that hard to do. I just over thought a lot of stuff. Will post pics tomorrow. But I will make the wiring neater, maybe tomorrow.
It definitely has a better throttle response, not like it was bad before. No BS, but it revs faster and feels like it pulls better above 3,000 RPM. It wasn't that hard to do. I just over thought a lot of stuff. Will post pics tomorrow. But I will make the wiring neater, maybe tomorrow.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 205
From: Trinity FL
Got it done today. Thank you to Patrick(torchtarga94), Bob Bailey, Twichy2011 and PLRX
It definitely has a better throttle response, not like it was bad before. No BS, but it revs faster and feels like it pulls better above 3,000 RPM. It wasn't that hard to do. I just over thought a lot of stuff. Will post pics tomorrow. But I will make the wiring neater, maybe tomorrow.
It definitely has a better throttle response, not like it was bad before. No BS, but it revs faster and feels like it pulls better above 3,000 RPM. It wasn't that hard to do. I just over thought a lot of stuff. Will post pics tomorrow. But I will make the wiring neater, maybe tomorrow.
Now go out and enjoy
Racer
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 382
Likes: 17
If i don't id have to sell it along with the cluster and ecu so will see