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I am still trying to diagnos the drivability problem. I am scared to throw an Opti at it for 300.00 and find out it is not the problem. The problem is at high rpm 4500-5500 it will die out like the key has been turned off. It will then pick back up at about 4000 and do it all over again. It is also intermittant. What has everyones opti done when it failed. Does it sound like this ?
Also where do you hook up the fuel presuure gauge on a 92 ?
I am still trying to diagnos the drivability problem. I am scared to throw an Opti at it for 300.00 and find out it is not the problem. The problem is at high rpm 4500-5500 it will die out like the key has been turned off. It will then pick back up at about 4000 and do it all over again. It is also intermittant. What has everyones opti done when it failed. Does it sound like this ?
Also where do you hook up the fuel presuure gauge on a 92 ?
I'm not sure on your fuel pressure hook up. On my '94 it's in between the firewall and the backside of the motor on the fuel rail. If you pull your fuel rail covers and follow them, you should be able to locate it.
On your opti. Before I changed the opti, I'd replace the plugs and check your wires. I had a similar problem on my car and found that I had a bad coil and a REALLY bad coil wire.
I've had a few opti's go out and they always seemed to be heat sensitive. They'd work fine when they were cold and once the car started to warm up they'd get progressively worse till it got to the point it wouldn't run at all.
I'm not sure on your fuel pressure hook up. On my '94 it's in between the firewall and the backside of the motor on the fuel rail. If you pull your fuel rail covers and follow them, you should be able to locate it.
On your opti. Before I changed the opti, I'd replace the plugs and check your wires. I had a similar problem on my car and found that I had a bad coil and a REALLY bad coil wire.
I've had a few opti's go out and they always seemed to be heat sensitive. They'd work fine when they were cold and once the car started to warm up they'd get progressively worse till it got to the point it wouldn't run at all.
Thank you very much for the post . It does seem to be temperature dependant. It gets much worse when hot. I have done the plugs but the coil and coil wire may be a culprate. I will check then tonight.
BTW
Is there a proper diagnostic procedure for testing an OPTI ?
Thank you very much for the post . It does seem to be temperature dependant. It gets much worse when hot. I have done the plugs but the coil and coil wire may be a culprate. I will check then tonight.
BTW
Is there a proper diagnostic procedure for testing an OPTI ?
I'm sure this a "proper" way. What that is, I don't know. I can say, if it seems to run okay when it's cooler and you don't have "too much" trouble, then it's more than likely your opti since you said it's temperature related. You can also check for a "light show" for your wires. Just unplug the hood lights and start it up in the dark. Look and see if the wires are arcing. My coil wire got so bad it was blowing past the boot on the coil itself. :eek: Sounded like popcorn under the hood.
On an early model opti several things can go bad. There are 2 optical sensors, a low resolution (8 signals per revolution) and hi-res (360 per revolution). Usually, this is caused by anti-freeze creeping in from a leaking water pump seal. The distributor contacts and rotor can corrode caused by water or other liquids creeping in. The bearings can go out caused by mileage.
Except for the bearings fluids can get in through the 3 vent holes on the lower edge of the opti and most likely (IMHO) around the seals on the opti that have been cooked, hardened and shrunk.
If you decide to replace the opti, you should take the new one apart and put a nice layer of hi-temp RTV on all the mating surfaces. To do this you will need a small reverse TORX (E10 I think) and a small TORX (T5 I think). I found them at Kragen's and Autozone in small kits.
There is an good article on the OPTI in either the Oct or Nov, 2002 VETT FEVER Magazine.
I spoke to a Chevy Tech ( It is nice to still have friends in the bussiness)today he feels that it may be a coil wire. I guess they have a tendancy to go bad. Gonna try that first wish me luck.
Coil wire didn't work OPTI here I come. Any good ideas where to get one? If i plan to do the Hot CAm is this the best time ? Should I do the heads and headers also ? It is gonna have to be shorties cause i live in CA :(
Any good ideas where to get an OPTI? If i plan to do the Hot CAm is this the best time ? Should I do the heads and headers also ? It is gonna have to be shorties cause i live in CA
A failing opti may throw a low and/or high resolution code. Before the dead presidents start flying out of your wallet, I'd check for codes. Sure sounds like secondary spark issue. Coil wires gotta be cheap. Compare resistance between old and new wire just for grins. Check wire ends. I've seen coil wires with deep pitted ends and big problems. Primary or secondary coil windings can get weak. A good coil tester might nail that. Sounds like you're in the right area. Keep the faith.
Best price I found on a Opti was Sam Smith at Fairway Chevy in Las Vegas. ~$270. I can't find the phone number at the moment, but you can probably 411 it.
You don't need to dismantle the whole front end to replace the opti, so it's not a good excuse to do the cam, heads & headers unless you really need one. :D
Best price I found on a Opti was Sam Smith at Fairway Chevy in Las Vegas. ~$270.
John, I called Fairway Chevrolet the other day and Sam no longer works there. The guy that I spoke with quoted me a price of around $325 for the opti, which is still a good price.
I just went through this myself. I changed the opti, and it still did not fix my high rpm miss.(around 6,500RPM's) I first noticed mine on the dyno. While the car was cool, it would not miss , but after the first pull, it would start missing, but only at high rpms. I finally tried a new set of MSD wires, and that fixed my problem. The coil wire measured 16,000 ohms that was on my car, and the new MSD coil wire measured .6 ohms. If you haven't replaced all of your wires, then change all of them first, and make sure that plug wire 5&7 are not touching. :yesnod:
I just looked at my dyno graphs again, and when it would miss, I was loosing from 75- 100 RWHP. It would pull strong up until that point, and it was like I let off the gas, and nailed it again. Wires are a lot cheaper than an opti...... :eek: