Reviving my old '87 Vert
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 354
Likes: 54
Reviving my old '87 Vert
I will be returning to the States for Christmas break. I have some things that I need to fix around the house, but had also planned to work on another Vette that did not pan out.
As I am waiting on my new ERL shortblock for my TTC6, I have a bit of time and my son coming in to assist on a project.
So... he has suggested we get my 1987 C4 Convertible out and get her back running. She has not run since 2010. I did drain the fuel, but really nothing else. She has been in a temperature controlled garage under a nice car cover.
Car has about 30K miles with pretty much everything nice that you could build into the engine. She ran strong before she went to storage.
He has suggested that we start with all fluids. I am thinking oil for starters, and a new Optima yellow top. I fear the steel braided fuel lines will need to be replaced.
Any good thoughts or words of encouragement prior to starting down this path?
As I am waiting on my new ERL shortblock for my TTC6, I have a bit of time and my son coming in to assist on a project.
So... he has suggested we get my 1987 C4 Convertible out and get her back running. She has not run since 2010. I did drain the fuel, but really nothing else. She has been in a temperature controlled garage under a nice car cover.
Car has about 30K miles with pretty much everything nice that you could build into the engine. She ran strong before she went to storage.
He has suggested that we start with all fluids. I am thinking oil for starters, and a new Optima yellow top. I fear the steel braided fuel lines will need to be replaced.
Any good thoughts or words of encouragement prior to starting down this path?
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Certainly change out the fluids!! Fresh green coolant, you can use a good synthetic oil in 5W-30 (Mobil-1 works fine) and a filter, complete brake fluid flush using a good DOT3 fluid, and check the condition of all of the various hoses especially the two radiator hoses. If the brake hoses are original, you may want to replace them. 
Stainless lines will work fine and are about the same cost as the OEM style rubber lines.
Inspect the tires for any signs of dry rot or cracking of the tread surface and sidewalls. Given that the car sat for so long, it may be reasonable to replace them after you get the car running.
Be careful of the Optima batteries as they have a top positive post that could be too close to the firewall to frame brace. I would suggest just a good side post battery like Interstate or even an AC Delco. I'm not a fan of the deep-cycle batteries for a car If you want the Optima brand, maybe go with a Red-Top instead.
The fuel lines should be OK but it would be a good idea to replace the fuel filter before filling the tank. Not a real easy job, but worth the effort. Some '87's had a filter on the return line. You should see it near the input filter.
Stainless lines will work fine and are about the same cost as the OEM style rubber lines.Inspect the tires for any signs of dry rot or cracking of the tread surface and sidewalls. Given that the car sat for so long, it may be reasonable to replace them after you get the car running.
Be careful of the Optima batteries as they have a top positive post that could be too close to the firewall to frame brace. I would suggest just a good side post battery like Interstate or even an AC Delco. I'm not a fan of the deep-cycle batteries for a car If you want the Optima brand, maybe go with a Red-Top instead.
The fuel lines should be OK but it would be a good idea to replace the fuel filter before filling the tank. Not a real easy job, but worth the effort. Some '87's had a filter on the return line. You should see it near the input filter.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 354
Likes: 54
Certainly change out the fluids!! Fresh green coolant, you can use a good synthetic oil in 5W-30 (Mobil-1 works fine) and a filter, complete brake fluid flush using a good DOT3 fluid, and check the condition of all of the various hoses especially the two radiator hoses. If the brake hoses are original, you may want to replace them. Stainless lines will work fine and are about the same cost as the OEM style rubber lines.
Stainless lines will work fine and are about the same cost as the OEM style rubber lines.I was running distilled water with water wetter prior to storage. I hope that has held up over time. Radiator hoses have been replaced. Brake lines are all original, other than being off of a '96.
Hopefully they will be good enough at least to get the car moving.
Be careful of the Optima batteries as they have a top positive post that could be too close to the firewall to frame brace. I would suggest just a good side post battery like Interstate or even an AC Delco. I'm not a fan of the deep-cycle batteries for a car If you want the Optima brand, maybe go with a Red-Top instead.
The yellow top Optima is the only battery that fits in that storage compartment behind the passenger seat. I will likely have to stay with the battery that fits. It is tight, and a pain to change in a convertible.
I am concerned about the braided stainless lines "seeping" with current fuels. I have heard many stories about the fuel not being compatible. and -10AN and -8AN lines will be quite costly. Fortunately there is a place close by that may be able to supply the required fuel lines that are compatible with modern EtOH enriched fuels.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Water alone may not have done a good job in protecting the cooling system. A 50-50 mix of a good ethylene glycol (green) coolant is what should be in the system and it would provide protection from rust and corrosion. You should remove the knock sensor from the block (it's on the passenger side in front of the starter) and drain whatever is in the block. Once you have the engine running, you can do a final flush and refill using the green coolant.
If the brake lines are "original", how can they be off a '96?
IIRC, the GM part numbers are different and the fittings at the caliper are different although they bolt up.
For the battery, the correct location with all C4's is on the driver's side behind the left front wheel. The battery tray sits above the frame rail. Did somebody relocate the battery?
My '87 didn't have any stainless gas lines anywhere. The original lines are steel with rubber lines at the fuel rail fittings at at the gas tank.
If the brake lines are "original", how can they be off a '96?
IIRC, the GM part numbers are different and the fittings at the caliper are different although they bolt up.For the battery, the correct location with all C4's is on the driver's side behind the left front wheel. The battery tray sits above the frame rail. Did somebody relocate the battery?
My '87 didn't have any stainless gas lines anywhere. The original lines are steel with rubber lines at the fuel rail fittings at at the gas tank.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 253
Likes: 59
From: North TX
Water alone may not have done a good job in protecting the cooling system. A 50-50 mix of a good ethylene glycol (green) coolant is what should be in the system and it would provide protection from rust and corrosion. You should remove the knock sensor from the block (it's on the passenger side in front of the starter) and drain whatever is in the block. Once you have the engine running, you can do a final flush and refill using the green coolant.
If the brake lines are "original", how can they be off a '96? IIRC, the GM part numbers are different and the fittings at the caliper are different although they bolt up.
For the battery, the correct location with all C4's is on the driver's side behind the left front wheel. The battery tray sits above the frame rail. Did somebody relocate the battery?
My '87 didn't have any stainless gas lines anywhere. The original lines are steel with rubber lines at the fuel rail fittings at at the gas tank.
If the brake lines are "original", how can they be off a '96?
IIRC, the GM part numbers are different and the fittings at the caliper are different although they bolt up.For the battery, the correct location with all C4's is on the driver's side behind the left front wheel. The battery tray sits above the frame rail. Did somebody relocate the battery?
My '87 didn't have any stainless gas lines anywhere. The original lines are steel with rubber lines at the fuel rail fittings at at the gas tank.
Pretend it's just a stock C4. What would you do to revive it, in order of importance, if you had a car that has been sitting for 6+ years?
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I am Aaron's son. He failed to mention that the car is far from "stock" or "factory" or "original", so no need to argue about his placement of the battery or the age of the brakelines.
Pretend it's just a stock C4. What would you do to revive it, in order of importance, if you had a car that has been sitting for 6+ years?
Pretend it's just a stock C4. What would you do to revive it, in order of importance, if you had a car that has been sitting for 6+ years?
Put some gas in the tank and then put a fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Turn the key to the ON position and check the fuel pressure. Should be around 40-45 psi The pump should run for only a couple seconds before it shuts off so you may want to cycle the ignition switch a couple times.
Check the radiator for coolant; the level should be at the filler opening. Check the oil level and add oil if needed. Then start the engine. Let it run to build up oil pressure and make sure there are no leaks anywhere. After that, I would do an oil and filter change.
Then you could move the car in the driveway and check the brakes for operation. At that point, it should be able to do a short test drive after checking the tires for air pressure (35 psi).
A coolant flush and fill along with a fuel filter would be the next thing to do. Then a brake fluid flush. Does the car have a manual trans or auto? Can't hurt to change those fluids if the car will be put in service once all of the other stuff is done.
Good luck with everything!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,270
Likes: 118
From: N. Babylon NY
Can you disconnect the fuel lines and run them into a container and check to see if any of the lines are coming apart. My friends track car had much older fuel lines-And they were shot.
I would think 6 years should be okay.
Steve
I would think 6 years should be okay.
Steve
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 354
Likes: 54
The braided stainless fuel lines, 120 #/hr injectors (reused from the old MRII intake), and the Weldon pump were all installed back in 2007. I ran it on and off for a couple of years. Replaced the Optima yellow-top battery in 2010. Started it once with the new battery and it has not moved, or started since.
As stated by my son above, there is not anything on this car that is stock. Quick answers from above: battery is relocated behind passenger seat. Big brake package is from a 96GS. Was an auto car many years ago, runs a black tag ZF6.
As stated by my son above, there is not anything on this car that is stock. Quick answers from above: battery is relocated behind passenger seat. Big brake package is from a 96GS. Was an auto car many years ago, runs a black tag ZF6.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,708
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From: indy indiana
just me, but if my car had been sitting fir 6 plus years, I would pull the plugs, squirt some oil in the cycls and tuen it over by hand two or three times. leave the plugs out and turn it over with the starter till oil pressure is up. Then reinstall plugs and fire that mother up.Best of luck and wish I coulkd have worked more on cars with my dad.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Water alone may not have done a good job in protecting the cooling system. A 50-50 mix of a good ethylene glycol (green) coolant is what should be in the system and it would provide protection from rust and corrosion. You should remove the knock sensor from the block (it's on the passenger side in front of the starter) and drain whatever is in the block. Once you have the engine running, you can do a final flush and refill using the green coolant.....
I am working on my 87 and since I didn't want to deal with collecting/filtering fresh antifreeze each time I opened it up, I used plain water. After sitting for only a few weeks, the aluminum in the water pump, intake and water outlet was severely corroded on the inside. There were huge globs of oxidized aluminum everywhere. I had to sand blast it all. Lesson learned.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 354
Likes: 54
Just me, but if my car had been sitting for 6 plus years, I would pull the plugs, squirt some oil in the cylinders and turn it over by hand two or three times. Leave the plugs out and turn it over with the starter till oil pressure comes up. Then reinstall plugs and fire that mother up. Best of luck and wish I could have worked more on cars with my dad.
That will be a given. It has a huge SR cam, so I need to get some oil to the top end prior to starting. Cylinder walls definitely need lube.
I am working on my 87 and since I didn't want to deal with collecting/filtering fresh antifreeze each time I opened it up, I used plain water. After sitting for only a few weeks, the aluminum in the water pump, intake and water outlet was severely corroded on the inside. There were huge globs of oxidized aluminum everywhere. I had to sand blast it all. Lesson learned.
I hope this is not the case. I used distilled water and water wetter with corrosion preventers. I hope all is well. Heads are CNC AFR220 heads and hoping they are not damaged.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2016
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Update:
While we didn't get any "real" work done on my '87 as we were distracted by installing a piston assy in the C6TT, we did confirm a few things.
Oil still looks decent and is at the correct level (no indication of serious water mix). The radiator is still full of water / water wetter / corrosion preventative and looks clean. the interior still looks clean, though has that dry "mold powder /dust" coating some surfaces.
Hopefully I may get some time this Summer to try to revive "Miss Nasty"....
While we didn't get any "real" work done on my '87 as we were distracted by installing a piston assy in the C6TT, we did confirm a few things.
Oil still looks decent and is at the correct level (no indication of serious water mix). The radiator is still full of water / water wetter / corrosion preventative and looks clean. the interior still looks clean, though has that dry "mold powder /dust" coating some surfaces.
Hopefully I may get some time this Summer to try to revive "Miss Nasty"....
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,671
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From: NEwhere Ohio
Update:
While we didn't get any "real" work done on my '87 as we were distracted by installing a piston assy in the C6TT, we did confirm a few things.
Oil still looks decent and is at the correct level (no indication of serious water mix). The radiator is still full of water / water wetter / corrosion preventative and looks clean. the interior still looks clean, though has that dry "mold powder /dust" coating some surfaces.
Hopefully I may get some time this Summer to try to revive "Miss Nasty"....
While we didn't get any "real" work done on my '87 as we were distracted by installing a piston assy in the C6TT, we did confirm a few things.
Oil still looks decent and is at the correct level (no indication of serious water mix). The radiator is still full of water / water wetter / corrosion preventative and looks clean. the interior still looks clean, though has that dry "mold powder /dust" coating some surfaces.
Hopefully I may get some time this Summer to try to revive "Miss Nasty"....
if so, the thing ruled and would beat any c6 n/a or forced induction (or literbike for that matter)
get that thing running
Racer
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 253
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From: North TX