Vokolr

My 85 has failed inspection due to the steering wheel "having too much play". After some searching around online it was pretty clear that it was the tilt knuckle having been worn out causing the issue. I decided it would be cheaper and similarly difficult to just find a replacement steering column and swap my old one out with it.

Well, I got the replacement column bolted in and positioned but I wanted to test the electrics before going any further. Turning the key turns the dash on, the turn signals and lights work properly as well but when turning the key to start nothing happens. Zero reaction. I wanted to keep my original keys as I have several copies made so I swapped out the ignition cylinder on the replacement column with the one off of the old loose column (Had no starting problems prior to this so I know the cylinder was in working order).

I wanted to ask here to see if anyone could help me troubleshoot this issue. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

WVZR-1

A read of this Saginaw column repair procedures will help you with ignition switch and dimmer switch adjustment. If you've got the pinion and rack in the upper column correctly orientated it's going to be just a matter of loosening screws on the column that hold the switch and moving it up or down. The .pdf is searchable so use terms like adjust and ignition. Lots of snapshots. I didn't read the .pdf again and haven't read it for several years but it's a very good reference.

If you've not installed the steering wheel etc and your problem is in the upper/pinion rod and the rack it might make it easier. Have you installed the steering wheel yet?

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_Rebuild.pdf

Vokolr

I have not installed the steering wheel yet but I will certainly look through the pdf, thanks.

Vokolr

I've done some of the reading and it sounds like maybe I managed to put the ignition switch in the wrong position while I had it off of the column. When I have time tomorrow to pull the switch off of the column I will see about setting the ignition switch to the correct position and then test starting the car. Thanks so much for sharing this resource, it definitely seems like it will come in handy!

Churchkey

Dash warning lights etc working = key cylinder installation ok. Insure the shift lever is in park or the clutch pedal is depressed when trying to start. If still no go either the the electric ign switch is out of adjustment or the E-plug in is not seated in the switch properly. Loosen the switch & slide it up toward the steering wheel a bit & check that the plug in connector is fully seated in the switch.

On a non Vette had an issue with the new ign switch E-pin wiring in the switch everything connected properly but circuitry in the new switch did not comply with the E-plug in. Installed the original switch = good to go.

Good luck

Vokolr

I've just had a chance to pull the switch and adjust the position of the plastic slider and the car still acts the same way. The pdf that WVZR-1 kindly linked said to put the key into the lock position and set the slider to the second to last position. I can only assume I am doing something wrong because I even swapped out the ignition switch with another and it still does nothing. Any idea what I may be missing?

Vokolr

For reference, here is the position I am currently working with

WVZR-1

It's very difficult to evaluate the snapshot but if you move the slider all the way to the right and then move it "one detent" to the left it's assumed to be correctly orientated. Properly installed you should be able to remove the key OFF/LOCK and when key is rotated you should be able to feel all of the detents.

Are you doing this out of the car and on a bench or are you attempting in the car? You've got a second column, switch and key cylinder/key so use it on the bench to maybe become more familiar.

Vokolr

I'm attempting to do this in the car and from what you've described I am doing it correctly. I will play with the other column outside of the car and see if that helps. If you've got anymore idea I'm all ears.

Vokolr

I went ahead and tested everything out on the other column (outside of the car) and that made everything pretty clear. I am now positive that I have the switch in the correct position and am doing this correctly yet the car still will not start. Upon turning the key there are two clicks on the switch before reaching the start position. when releasing the key from the start position the cylinder springs back into the second click and from there I can rotate the key all the way back (Two clicks) to the lock position and remove it.

WVZR-1

So you need to confirm the connections maybe in the two connector to the switch. With KEY ON do you get the expected response from the dash etc? Maybe since you've 2 switches you swap and use the "known good" from your previous column? You've not mentioned if the car is a M4+ or an A4 so knowing which might influence the diagnostics that you do next. Which is it M4+ or an A4?

I would worry right now with the KEY ON results and the terminals in the 2 connectors to column!!

Vokolr

When turning the key to the on position, the dash does exactly what it is supposed to (Lights up) my car is an A4 and I am using the electrics (High beam, ignition switch, and cylinder) from the original column.

WVZR-1

If you're happy with KEY-ON, KEY-OFF/LOCK (easy removal the key I'd think) and the ACC positioning then you just "tweak" the position of the switch on the column using the slots. For your situation I believe you maybe slide the switch towards the front of the car. I've not done one for many years - many years.

Try the key operation with the column in various tilt positions. Extreme up or extreme down might influence the positioning of the rod/rack enough to influence activation.

Good luck!!

Churchkey

Remove the E connector from the column switch, plug the extra switch into the connector & operate it with a screwdriver or whatever.

Starter works = the issue is in the new column.

Starter does not work = there is a separate issue, try starting with the gear selector in neutral. Starter works = the neutral switch needs adjustment or replacement.

Vokolr

Just wanted to come back and post that I did figure out the issue and it had nothing to do with the steering column. There was a wire beneath the dash that ran near the column that a previous owner had spliced into at some point and did a horrible job of taping it together. At some point during the removal process of the old steering column that wire was knocked loose and all it took was a proper soldering job and some heat shrink for the car to start up and run. Thanks for all the help guys!

WVZR-1

That had to be pretty damned aggravating - it's behind you now though. Life is getting better!! LOL