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I doubt this is a fuel pressure problem, more then likely you have a modified engine and you need a tune that will add more cranking fuel, and open loop fuel. If the pressure hits 40 with the key on and then slowly drops it will be fine when you are cranking because the fuel pump is on when you are cranking.
FYI, the fuel pressure drop get blamed for all kinds of issues when it is usually not the main starting or running problem. If the fuel pressure rail pressure stays in the 30's and 40's when the car is running the problem is located somewhere else.
My car does not have a starting problem and my fuel pressure will drop to zero in 10 seconds. There is no starting problem because as soon as I hit the key and start cranking the pressure jumps up to 40 PSI and the car immediately starts. Fuel is non compressable and even a very slow leak back to the tank will cause the fuel pressure to drop to zero very quickly.
Originally Posted by Eddie4694229
If the vehicle sits for say 12 hrs or so it takes a good 5 min or so to pump the fuel back up to the injectors.
All you say is true but the part that he says that it takes 5 mins to pump fuel to the injectors makes me wonder. Soon as you hit the key to run, it pressurizes for a few seconds. Mine drops like you mentioned but it still hits 43 psi in an instant and NOT 5 mins.
yes, something is going on with taking five minutes to re-pressurize.
if the filter or the sock was plugged, it would take just as long to pressurize the initial key on. This one is a real mystery
That was my confusion too. That it takes a while to DE-pressurize makes me think it is a pump issue. Either current or the pump itself. We might know more if he comes back with a test result.
I doubt this is a fuel pressure problem, more then likely you have a modified engine and you need a tune that will add more cranking fuel, and open loop fuel. If the pressure hits 40 with the key on and then slowly drops it will be fine when you are cranking because the fuel pump is on when you are cranking.
FYI, the fuel pressure drop get blamed for all kinds of issues when it is usually not the main starting or running problem. If the fuel pressure rail pressure stays in the 30's and 40's when the car is running the problem is located somewhere else.
My car does not have a starting problem and my fuel pressure will drop to zero in 10 seconds. There is no starting problem because as soon as I hit the key and start cranking the pressure jumps up to 40 PSI and the car immediately starts. Fuel is non compressable and even a very slow leak back to the tank will cause the fuel pressure to drop to zero very quickly.
I had a chip burned after the motor was built with all the updated specs. Any suggestions on how I can determine if this is a fuel pressure issue or an issue with the chip?
I had a chip burned after the motor was built with all the updated specs. Any suggestions on how I can determine if this is a fuel pressure issue or an issue with the chip?
Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and crank the car, does the fuel pressure rise up to around 40 PSI quickly and stay there as long as you are cranking the car? If it does it maybe a chip issue, if the pressure stays low until the car finally starts the issue will be fuel pressure related.
How did you obtain the reading you listed for fuel pressure if you are buying a gauge tomorrow?
The psi comes up to appx 40 psi, and it appears it is a "slow leak" the longer it sits the more it leaks down. If the vehicle sits for say 12 hrs or so it takes a good 5 min or so to pump the fuel back up to the injectors. The motor is still an lt1, to compound the issue once it does finally start the motors revs between 1-2 thousand rpm's. It takes about 20-25 minutes before the motor starts running properly (even after warming up for about 10 min prior to driving). Is there any chance the initial rough idling is related to the leak down issue? Thanks for all your help, I have been restoring this car for about 2 years now, its been to multiple shops and to this point no luck in figuring out the leakdown problem.
What happens to fuel pressure when you rev it?
Pressurization should be pretty much instant. When you turn the key to the "on" position, you should hear a buzzing noise from the back, that's your fuel pump. Pressure should be between 41 and 35 psi. When turned off, it should take about 30 min to fully depressurize.
I suspect one of two things, assuming of course that the regulator is good, and installation was correct. Either you don't have enough fuel pump for a 383, or the open loop tune is off. Or both.
Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and crank the car, does the fuel pressure rise up to around 40 PSI quickly and stay there as long as you are cranking the car? If it does it maybe a chip issue, if the pressure stays low until the car finally starts the issue will be fuel pressure related.
How did you obtain the reading you listed for fuel pressure if you are buying a gauge tomorrow?
The mechanic that was working on it before tested the pressure, and that's what he came up with.
Pressurization should be pretty much instant. When you turn the key to the "on" position, you should hear a buzzing noise from the back, that's your fuel pump. Pressure should be between 41 and 35 psi. When turned off, it should take about 30 min to fully depressurize.
I suspect one of two things, assuming of course that the regulator is good, and installation was correct. Either you don't have enough fuel pump for a 383, or the open loop tune is off. Or both.
. After the motor gets completely warmed up it revs fine however with that being said if I am running say 65 or 70 in 5th gear and I step on it, the motor stumbles. As long as the acceleration is slow and smooth at the top end it's fine but if you step on it hard it stumbles.
. After the motor gets completely warmed up it revs fine however with that being said if I am running say 65 or 70 in 5th gear and I step on it, the motor stumbles. As long as the acceleration is slow and smooth at the top end it's fine but if you step on it hard it stumbles.
5th gear is an overdrive gear, so stepping on it, while it shouldn't be a huge chore for the engine, isn't ideal. However, stumbling on acceleration is typically a fuel delivery issue. Kind of why I asked about the fuel pressure when revving. It may rev okay without a load on it, but the pressure gauge may show a larger than normal drop in pressure. Supply needs to match demand.
What size injectors are you running? From everything that I've heard and read, most people going 383 also upgrade the fuel pump as well.
Last edited by lt4obsesses; Dec 22, 2016 at 07:53 PM.
5th gear is an overdrive gear, so stepping on it, while it shouldn't be a huge chore for the engine, isn't ideal. However, stumbling on acceleration is typically a fuel delivery issue. Kind of why I asked about the fuel pressure when revving. It may rev okay without a load on it, but the pressure gauge may show a larger than normal drop in pressure. Supply needs to match demand.
What size injectors are you running? From everything that I've heard and read, most people going 383 also upgrade the fuel pump as well.
I'm running 30 lb injectors, it's a manual transmission, is there a fuel pump you suggest?
Before spending money on the pump, I would confirm as best I could that it is indeed a fuel issue and not an ignition issue. Nothing worse than throwing parts at the wrong problem.
Assuming you told the programmer about the mods and the larger injectors, I'd check the pump to regulator area
Thank you for your help, I did give all the specs when the chip was ordered, I have had a ton of problems getting the motor to run consistently. The performance or lack thereof changes almost every time I drive the car. Its very frustrating.
Thank you for your help, I did give all the specs when the chip was ordered, I have had a ton of problems getting the motor to run consistently. The performance or lack thereof changes almost every time I drive the car. Its very frustrating.
Hate to say that but an off shelf or mail order tune has never left me satisfied. I usually get it done at the facility so they can fine tune it instead of guessing what you have and write the program conservatively. Also in introduces another variable.
That said, let's look at the fuel pressure to rule it out. Check compression just to make sure
Hate to say that but an off shelf or mail order tune has never left me satisfied. I usually get it done at the facility so they can fine tune it instead of guessing what you have and write the program conservatively. Also in introduces another variable.
That said, let's look at the fuel pressure to rule it out. Check compression just to make sure
I had the motor built at a race shop in Lynchburg Va. (Kowalski Racing) they don't burn chips so I had to order out of Ohio. I haven't been able to locate anyone locally who can burn a chip and tune it. Compression tests have been conducted by prior mechanic and I was told the motor itself is very solid.
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