I currently have an fti 2400rpm stall with lockup (12in), i need to have it cleaned after shattering my transmission pump, but the cost of cleaning + shipping is more than it would cost me to buy the same converter new.

So I'm thinking it's time to upgrade!

So I'm thinking maybe a 3200 rpm stall this time around as my car really begins to enter the powerband at that rpm.

Thoughts on choices?
Thoughts on converter size?

​​​​​​​Right now i'm looking at the fti esr series with lockup, its a 9.5in converter.

 

Seems like a good stall speed choice, I have no experience with that company but if you talk to them and like their responses then go for it. The 9.5" diameter will have reduced mass and should make the engine more responsive.

 

I recently called FTI for their thoughts on a convertor for my 89 bolt ons only car and they told me that a 3600 stall was the way to go. I got nervous about that much stall on a basic street car so I opted for the 2400. How did you like yours?
Mine is being installed as I type this.

 

I liked the 2400, it was a little higher than the stock converter I pulled off.

It also made it a bit easier to get the tires spinning

I had a nice long chat with FTI related to converter choices, pretty much they said the converter should be used to keep the engine at max HP and then allow the speed of the car to catch up with the engine, and not the engine catch up with the speed of the car.

I had some issues grasping the concept until I ran a higher stall for a while, now I get it.

another affect that the higher stall may have is to help smooth out low rpm shifts (like if I have the wife in the car).

From what I understand, having the higher stall should make light throttle shifts less painful.

This is pretty important since after upgrading my trans and doing the shift kit, it's pretty aggressive, however the shifts are perfect at WOT.

 

That is pretty much what they told me, and I was surprised they suggested such a high stall on a stock car. Just dropped car off yesterday for the convertor, 3:07 gears and TPIS headers to be installed. Have been trying to research everything I do by reading the Forum and taking advantage of the info on here. Some people have been modding these cars for a long time so I get to learn from their mistakes. Will be doing just bolt on stuff for now and then give the pocket book a rest.

 

You're going to notice a night and day difference! I did with just going from 2.59 to 3.07 and intake swap. I have headers but have yet to install them.

 

I think the 2400 rpm stall is a good starting place, i will say that after running the higher stall for a while i found i wanted more.

The only thing I'm worried about is my stock d36 rear end, but from what i read i should be ok unless i run race slicks and make a few hard hitting passes.

​​​​​​​And i have a 307 rear end, i can't comment on it since i have never had anything else to compare against.

 

Also for light driving the higher stall won't feel much different.
​​​​​​​it felt squishy to me at first, but when you hit it, it will grab at the higher rpm and the car will launch.

Where i love is is the ability to spin my tires easier, i have done it at stop lights, in a traffic jam, intersections etc.
usually when i have someone riding my butt.

It makes me giggle each time!

I also have noidea where my hp is at but i replaced my top end, long tube headers, 3in exhaust, custom tune and ecm.

 

Thanks, that sounds exactly what i want.

The faster the engine gets up to speed the more i giggle like a lil school girl!

I actually had someone giving me a wft look as i had just warmed up my tires, seeing me there just giggling he just laughed.

​​​​​​​Good time!

 

Been considering a 9.5 fti myself and I do drag with a 3.07 dana 36 & drag radials. I've also read that when some break their dana 36 is with higher stalls & sticky tires.

Rearend aside I'd have np running more stall with lockup and deff upgrade to a 9.5"

 

Basically with the looser TC, you're going to keep your engine closer to peak power more of the time, like the guy at FTI said. The looser it is, the closer you get to approximating a constant-velocity transmission. I still remember when a friend of mine dyno'd his C Prepared autocross Firebird that was based on a 3.8L Buick turbo motor with a TH350 and loose TC. On a chassis dyno, the power curve was flat as a pancake throughout the pull, and the torque curve started ridiculously high and just fell in linear fashion as the rpms increased. This makes perfect mathematical sense, and when you compare it to a "normal" dyno sheet with much less time at peak power, you see how the loose TC makes the car faster overall.

I'm trying to think through the implications for the drivetrain's durability. Unlike with acceleration (which is a function of the engine's power), drivetrain durability is a function of the force (torque) being applied to it. A TC functions as a torque multiplier. A looser TC will cause a higher multiplication factor, which is what my friend's dyno graph showed. So I guess the drivetrain really will see higher forces at low vehicle speeds...if the tires can hold it. That's where drag slicks start to really stress things out, I guess. Seems to me that on typical street tires, there just isn't enough grip to cause damage.

 

herea GOOD READ on stock replacement and the different stall speeds of stock chevy and vette converters.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/THE%20...%20Upgrade.htm
This came off the S-10 forum but has good info on the best stock converters and seems like the 1986 is the best

 

Here is my thought. Get a Precision Industries Vigilante. They offer a free restall within 2 years. That means if your pump blows debris into the system and thus the TC, you send it back and they will cut it apart, clean it and if you wanted a restall, so be it. Shipping of course applies. What this means to you is that you can go with their recommendations and if you don't like it, have them restall it after trying it for up to 2 years or if you make a serious mod then.

 

I've been beating on mine for years and it keeps on ticking; even with full throttle lockups.

 

Running a loose converter on the street causes high fluid temps,not good for trans. 3000 tops for street,only my 2cts.

 

Thanks all for the input.

I do have a pretty large cooler with a fan mounted at the front of the car.
​​​​​​​like the thing is nearly the size of my radiator, but its pretty thin, maybe 3/4 to an inch thick.

This choice may be easier if i still had the car driving, however i did like to keep the car in the 3k range when driving.

However i'm still torn between 3,000 rpm stall and 3200 rpm

 

That is not much of a difference.

I run a Vig 4K convertor , but my car is mainly setup for the 1/4 mile.

Vic

 

I have a 3000 stall in mine, and I can hardly tell it's there while driving. The reason I said while driving is, because I had a stock convertor in the car, and at a stop light the car, felt like it want to move, because of my setup. I put the 3000 in, and it does not try to move, while on the brakes, and it allow the car to be in its power band. It was a day and night difference with my setup.

It's very docile until, you hit the pedal kind of hard, plus mine lockup in second and third when driving normal. (4L60E)

Randy

 

Well after being delayed because of some snow we got her in Massachusetts I finally got my car back. i have to say it was well worth the wait. I had TPis long tubes installed with a high flo cat and connected to my stock mufflers.Headers are a great fit and car has a nice crisp sound with no drone. FTI 2400 stall convertor was next and finally 3:07 gears were added. I am sure most people on the Forum have already made these mods but I am just starting the process. I tried to do as much research as possible before starting to make changes and these upgrades were recommended by a lot of people and I am very happy I paid attention to what they had to say. Car is like night and day!!
Feels completely stock during normal driving but when you press on the go peddle hold on to your hat! Also tuned the car up and added new air filter and cut lid and a fuel pressure gauge, my plan is all bolt on mods first and then a trip to the track for verifiable results. Still have to remove frisbee and add afpr and then see where I am at.
Goal is low 13 high 12 second streetable car.

 

Good to hear, i really liked my 2400rpm stall on my vette, i would say that from the factory i believe the car had a 2000rpm stall.
i dumped the old converter before i found out it's written on the converter, so i never verified.

And i still have not committed to a new converter yet.

does anyone know if a 700r4 can support lockup in 3rd and second?

​​​​​​​If it can support it, i might spend some extra money on a better converter, and install a manual lockup override switch​...