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While any things possible, I can't imagine an 70K engine needing a bottom end rebuild. Pull the heads...which you have to do anyway right? look at the cylinder bores / piston tops for obvious damage, have the heads rebuilt...do a cam swap? if so inclined ? and bolt it back together.
a blown head gasket does not = the need for a new engine.
oil pressure switch is in a parallel circuit with fuel pump relay to power fuel pump. There are aftermarket switches with higher psi rating which could protect engine depending on cause of pressure loss.
Very true blown head gaskets in most cases is just a gasket kit and maybe head resurfacing.
oil pressure switch is in a parallel circuit with fuel pump relay to power fuel pump. There are aftermarket switches with higher psi rating which could protect engine depending on cause of pressure loss.
Very true blown head gaskets in most cases is just a gasket kit and maybe head resurfacing.
How does it work as a parallel circuit? If the pressure drops to 0 and it cuts out, the other circuit will still power the pump.
The engine and fuel system isn't designed to prevent damage actually. blown head ...gasket. Oil pressure switch is designed to come on below 4 1/2 psi normally internal damage will occur before light comes on especially under load. Low coolant can skew cts readings since air does transfer heat like a liquid. Some model have a check gages light to alert driver something is not right. With head gasket failures there is always the potential for more damage. Severe overheating can cause cracked heads, scuffed pistons and cylinders. You really don't know what you got until its apart.
what does scuffed piston or cylinders look like or what are symbols. Just for my own info
if you search scuffed cylinder wall there are images.
the oil switch deal is mostly in racing. Rules will dictate fuel pumps won't run with engine off. Fuel pump prime is on a spring loaded toggle switch designed to be open when released. The factory wiring is altered so that ecm doesn't control fuel pump.
While any things possible, I can't imagine an 70K engine needing a bottom end rebuild. Pull the heads...which you have to do anyway right? look at the cylinder bores / piston tops for obvious damage, have the heads rebuilt...do a cam swap? if so inclined ? and bolt it back together.
a blown head gasket does not = the need for a new engine.
ANy suggestions on getting the heads rebuilt? I would like to change the cam but I've been told it would be a waste of time without the supporting mods.
LT1 is different than the tpi you could get a hot cam match port the heads and intakel. Changing rocker arms to 1.6 change cams personality. I just depends on what you want.
I dont belief there is a tuner within 60 miles of me
You will need to get one or not modify the car. "computer friendly" cams, aka low bang for the buck are all you can do. Besides, if you do a tune, you can tow it there and get it done and you don't need to do it again until you make radical changes. You can get the mail order tunes or as I like to call, guess work tunes.
You will need to get one or not modify the car. "computer friendly" cams, aka low bang for the buck are all you can do. Besides, if you do a tune, you can tow it there and get it done and you don't need to do it again until you make radical changes. You can get the mail order tunes or as I like to call, guess work tunes.
You're saying, talk to a tuner before any work is performed? Do you mean specifically a dyno?
You're saying, talk to a tuner before any work is performed? Do you mean specifically a dyno?
I'd like to talk to the person writing the tune and see what he thinks would work for what I have and what I plan to do. I'd also make sure that he is doing it dyno tune and not just guessing around at what the tune to write.
ANy suggestions on getting the heads rebuilt? I would like to change the cam but I've been told it would be a waste of time without the supporting mods.
any reputable machine shop should be able to rebuild the heads.
cam swaps are always a subject of debate, but I can't believe that there isn't some room for improvement; my LT4 had the stock LT4 cam (which is bigger than an LT1 cam) and it had three wiped lobes, a switch to an LT4 Hot Cam was a big improvement; was it the cam? was it having 16 functional lobes instead of only 13 ? All I know is that both the engine and I were a lot happier. And I've had similar good luck with other engines.
"supporting mods" ? My theory, for what its worth, is pick a cam that will support your goals (torque, horsepower, economy, whatever) install it and work out from there.
There has to be someone who can chime in with some specific cam recommendations for your engine.
There has to be someone who can chime in with some specific cam recommendations for your engine.
I really wouldn't use what we suggest for a cam. The problem I am nervous about is if I suggest a cam for you and the tuner doesn't get the results you want, there could be a problem where he blames you for the crap you installed and made him work on and you blame him. I honestly think it would be better if he talked to the tuner/builder and they come up with a plan for what he wants and the client wants, there are less surprises.
Kinda like you asking me to build the transmission using your list. You have a problem, I blame the parts. Parts says it is me. This way, you recommended the parts, you bought the parts and it breaks, it's all YOU. Ask me how I know.
I His tune was just about spot on for my H/C/I Lt1.
How did you determine that? I have sat in my car as it was on the dyno. Each progression felt the same as the last. Even the one that the dyno said was with the power going back down.
How did you determine that? I have sat in my car as it was on the dyno. Each progression felt the same as the last. Even the one that the dyno said was with the power going back down.
Wideband. The A/F was just about spot on. It was a tad on the rich side but that is expected from a mail order tune.
He reads the wideband info and will send several tunes back based on the results.
As a last resort, I'd use Solomon since he would narrow down the tune. With mail order, they are going to be conservative. I can tow the car 5 or 6 hours for once in many years without issues as opposed to them guessing on the tune and having to settle for "good enough" as opposed to custom