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Its done :D I started working on it last Friday, finished it This past Thurday and went to the track yesterday. If I knew how to link a thread to my track results I would. Take a look in the drag racing section.
I forget if someone already mentioned, but you should switch that oxy sensor to a 3 wire. You can buy a universal Bosch one for around $35. If you still have a cat and factory cat-back you might be able to get away with the single wire.
I forget if someone already mentioned, but you should switch that oxy sensor to a 3 wire. You can buy a universal Bosch one for around $35. If you still have a cat and factory cat-back you might be able to get away with the single wire.
Good tip because when I installed mine, My engine would drop out of closed loop at idle due to the O2 sensor cooling off to a temp below 600F.
Ramrod. how did you link that thread? and how did you get the thread #?
I'll will definetly look into the heated O2 sensor. I don't know too much about it so I'll do some searchin'
The x-brace went right on. In fact because I could no longer use the OEM clamp/bracket that held the main cat in place the x-brace took cat of that. There is no exhaust rattling/vibrations ETC.
The band clamps came with the headers and seem to be working just fine.
Actually it is not hard at all. Highlight the address, then right click on it, the slew down to copy and left click. When you open the reply there are options at the bottom, click on URL, then inter the adress between the two sets of brackets. :cheers:
The oil filter is about an inch away. As far as launching went, my first two runs were at about 1200 my last three were at about 1700. I think I'm going to stick with the 1700 range for a while and play with that.
Black85: So get a heated? $35 for them? do I have to run more wires then?
I am very close to being done with my harness (ripping the useless poopie out, and rewrapping it all nicely).
I am going to be running LPE headers on my motor and need an o2 anyways...
Thanks
Matt
You'll need to run one of the three wires from the heated O2 sensor to a switched 12 volt source (one that is only hot when the ignition key is in the "on" position.
One of the other of the three wires goes to a good ground and the third wire is spliced into the existing O2 sensor wire.