Clutch for 93
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Clutch for 93
Hey guys new member. Just picked up a 93 that needs a clutch. Don't seem to be as many choices as when I was searching for a mustang clutch. Any suggestions for a high performance setup? Thanks.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
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From: folsom california
for stock pull type clutch, peruse the offerings by SPEC...almost any combo imaginable; also Carolina Clutch
McLeod and Ram, and probably others , offer conversion clutches to more conventional push style
of course, you'll (probably) be faced with the dual mass or single mass flywheel conundrum, but more on that later
Last edited by mtwoolford; Jan 30, 2017 at 01:38 AM.
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From: Austin TX
If your dual mass flywheel is not toast, you can reuse with a kit designed as a replacement. I installed the Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch Kit DF000100 on my 92 LT1. Machine resurfacing a dual mass flywheel is not recommended and finding a new replacement is impossible.
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If your dual mass flywheel is not toast, you can reuse with a kit designed as a replacement. I installed the Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch Kit DF000100 on my 92 LT1. Machine resurfacing a dual mass flywheel is not recommended and finding a new replacement is impossible.
Wont know that until I get it out. How much HP or TQ is that centerforce rated at?
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Welcome to the C4 community
for stock pull type clutch, peruse the offerings by SPEC...almost any combo imaginable; also Carolina Clutch
McLeod and Ram, and probably others , offer conversion clutches to more conventional push style
of course, you'll (probably) be faced with the dual mass or single mass flywheel conundrum, but more on that later
for stock pull type clutch, peruse the offerings by SPEC...almost any combo imaginable; also Carolina Clutch
McLeod and Ram, and probably others , offer conversion clutches to more conventional push style
of course, you'll (probably) be faced with the dual mass or single mass flywheel conundrum, but more on that later
I was looking at the Ram. I like the HP rating. Don't know what my car has yet. It has a Vortech supercharger and T-rex fuel system but I don't know how much boost or what kind of tune it has. Just got it Saturday and seller didn't have data on mods.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
My own car is an LT4 with a LT4 Hot Cam. I run a SPEC lightweight billet steel flywheel and a Stage 3 plus clutch...very nice combo .
When I did my clutch I replaced everything, fork, throwout brg, pivot ball/stud, etc. Some of these parts are becoming hard to find, so a conversion to a push type clutch with an integrated hydraulic throw out bearing (Ram or Mcleod) may be more practical.
Last edited by mtwoolford; Jan 30, 2017 at 05:17 PM.
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[QUOTE=mtwoolford;1593984986]You bought it and it needs a clutch; why am I not surprised? So whatever is in there replace it with something better.
My own car is an LT4 with a LT4 Hot Cam. I run a SPEC lightweight billet steel flywheel and a Stage 3 plus clutch...very nice combo .
When I did my clutch I replaced everything, fork, throwout brg, pivot ball/stud, etc. Some of these parts are becoming hard to find, so a conversion to a push type clutch with an integrated hydraulic throw out bearing (Ram or Mcleod) may be more practical.[/QUOTe
I knew it needed a clutch before I bought it. At 25k original miles and a vortech I couldn't pass it up for 10k.
It's incredibly clean inside and out and everything works perfectly except the weak clutch. I'll probably go with the ram conversion like you were saying. Thanks for the input.
My own car is an LT4 with a LT4 Hot Cam. I run a SPEC lightweight billet steel flywheel and a Stage 3 plus clutch...very nice combo .
When I did my clutch I replaced everything, fork, throwout brg, pivot ball/stud, etc. Some of these parts are becoming hard to find, so a conversion to a push type clutch with an integrated hydraulic throw out bearing (Ram or Mcleod) may be more practical.[/QUOTe
I knew it needed a clutch before I bought it. At 25k original miles and a vortech I couldn't pass it up for 10k.
It's incredibly clean inside and out and everything works perfectly except the weak clutch. I'll probably go with the ram conversion like you were saying. Thanks for the input.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,119
Likes: 1,994
From: St. Charles MO
The only caveats to the Ram conversion, as I understand it, are some additional steps for the installation. I believe you have to cut a small window in the bellhousing for the hydraulic lines and/or allow some access for measuring stack height, and you have to shim and measure that stack height to get the hydraulic t/o bearing to engage properly. I believe that you are probably locked into the Ram flywheel design, too. But the upside is that you may be able to avoid the "made in China" syndrome of the new OE pull-style pressure plates and bearings, which have sketchy quality.
On the flip side, your OE pressure plate is a made-in-US Valeo unit, and the t/o bearing is also US-made. With only 25k miles, it's very possible that one or both of these parts are reusable. If the supercharged engine just overpowered the stock organic disk (very possible), you might consider just replacing it with the Centerforce Dual Friction disk. Just make sure that the p/p is in good shape, with no grooves and with even wear around its friction surface. This would be much cheaper alternative, and that disk (or maybe the SPEC Stage 3 or Stage 3 Plus) are intended to be used with higher-powered apps like yours.
On the flip side, your OE pressure plate is a made-in-US Valeo unit, and the t/o bearing is also US-made. With only 25k miles, it's very possible that one or both of these parts are reusable. If the supercharged engine just overpowered the stock organic disk (very possible), you might consider just replacing it with the Centerforce Dual Friction disk. Just make sure that the p/p is in good shape, with no grooves and with even wear around its friction surface. This would be much cheaper alternative, and that disk (or maybe the SPEC Stage 3 or Stage 3 Plus) are intended to be used with higher-powered apps like yours.
Last edited by MatthewMiller; Jan 31, 2017 at 10:27 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,680
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From: NEwhere Ohio
The only caveats to the Ram conversion, as I understand it, are some additional steps for the installation. I believe you have to cut a small window in the bellhousing for the hydraulic lines and/or allow some access for measuring stack height, and you have to shim and measure that stack height to get the hydraulic t/o bearing to engage properly. I believe that you are probably locked into the Ram flywheel design, too. But the upside is that you may be able to avoid the "made in China" syndrome of the new OE pull-style pressure plates and bearings, which have sketchy quality.
On the flip side, your OE pressure plate is a made-in-US Valeo unit, and the t/o bearing is also US-made. With only 25k miles, it's very possible that one or both of these parts are reusable. If the supercharged engine just overpowered the stock organic disk (very possible), you might consider just replacing it with the Centerforce Dual Friction disk. Just make sure that the p/p is in good shape, with no grooves and with even wear around its friction surface. This would be much cheaper alternative, and that disk (or maybe the SPEC Stage 3) are intended to be used with higher-powered apps like yours.
On the flip side, your OE pressure plate is a made-in-US Valeo unit, and the t/o bearing is also US-made. With only 25k miles, it's very possible that one or both of these parts are reusable. If the supercharged engine just overpowered the stock organic disk (very possible), you might consider just replacing it with the Centerforce Dual Friction disk. Just make sure that the p/p is in good shape, with no grooves and with even wear around its friction surface. This would be much cheaper alternative, and that disk (or maybe the SPEC Stage 3) are intended to be used with higher-powered apps like yours.
spec stage 3 might be a little to rough for street manners. the stage 3 plus is the better clutch.
if you buy spec, do not trust any of their balance work. you will want to get it checked ot yourself.
i do have a spare NOS in-tattered-box OEM made in usa valeo pressure plate assembly if you are looking for one. send me a pm and ill send out pictures. i do not have the throwout bearing or clutch disk.
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spec stage 3 plus with a lightweight alum flywheel (very controversial, but i am a big fan since i recognize the car is a sportscar, not a cadillac) is what im running on my 520 rwhp supercharged 93.
spec stage 3 might be a little to rough for street manners. the stage 3 plus is the better clutch.
if you buy spec, do not trust any of their balance work. you will want to get it checked ot yourself.
i do have a spare NOS in-tattered-box OEM made in usa valeo pressure plate assembly if you are looking for one. send me a pm and ill send out pictures. i do not have the throwout bearing or clutch disk.
spec stage 3 might be a little to rough for street manners. the stage 3 plus is the better clutch.
if you buy spec, do not trust any of their balance work. you will want to get it checked ot yourself.
i do have a spare NOS in-tattered-box OEM made in usa valeo pressure plate assembly if you are looking for one. send me a pm and ill send out pictures. i do not have the throwout bearing or clutch disk.
At this point I'm not sure if it has the stock setup in it or not. After researching more I am now leaning toward the spec myself. I've read a lot about the Ram system increasing vibrations and gear noise. How is the spec as far as that goes?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,680
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From: NEwhere Ohio
the gear rattle noise is over blown - at least with my bluetag zf.
the only time i get noise is if im in too-high-of-a-gear going up a hill(light rattle) or at neutral with clutch disengaged (light knocking).
interestingly i did discover the noise is greatly reduced if you install the extra thick countershift shim from zfdoc (which btw is nothing special - in fact a mustang buddy posted on facebook how he used a thicker countershaft shim on his car to 'quiet' gear noise.
lastly, some people here will recommend castrol bmw 10w-60 engine oil for your transmssion and i do not recommend it. i got notchy shifting and couldnt even get the lever to move into the next gear at high rpm wot style shifing. ive had best luck with gm syncromesh and amsoil
Last edited by dizwiz24; Jan 31, 2017 at 09:39 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,119
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From: St. Charles MO
I have the same Fidanza flywheel that dizwiz has, and I am now even using a lighter factory GM racing pressure plate (2.2lbs off the outside of the friction plate). It does rattle some in neutral and a bit if you lug it really hard. I am totally used to it. I did not update the countershaft shim, either. If I ever have to drop it again, I probably will. Anyway, if your car had a quiet, all-stock exhaust and no engine mods then the noise would probably be a bit of an issue. But with all the mods your car has, I'm guessing it's pretty raucous. Mine is. The trans noise is not a big deal. Maybe someone who lives around you has a light flywheel in theirs and you can listen to it?
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It isn't the pressure plate or disk that will determine the noise level of the transmission, it's the flywheel. The stock 40lb dual-mass flywheel was specifically design to quiet that noise. When you switch to a single-mass flywheel, and especially a light one, it will make some noise. That is the nature of the ZF beast, and it isn't harmful in the least. And it's nearly impossible to find a replacement dual-mass flywheel these days. Anyway, if you're worried about noise then you can get a heavier steel single-mass flywheel and it will mitigate it.
I have the same Fidanza flywheel that dizwiz has, and I am now even using a lighter factory GM racing pressure plate (2.2lbs off the outside of the friction plate). It does rattle some in neutral and a bit if you lug it really hard. I am totally used to it. I did not update the countershaft shim, either. If I ever have to drop it again, I probably will. Anyway, if your car had a quiet, all-stock exhaust and no engine mods then the noise would probably be a bit of an issue. But with all the mods your car has, I'm guessing it's pretty raucous. Mine is. The trans noise is not a big deal. Maybe someone who lives around you has a light flywheel in theirs and you can listen to it?
I have the same Fidanza flywheel that dizwiz has, and I am now even using a lighter factory GM racing pressure plate (2.2lbs off the outside of the friction plate). It does rattle some in neutral and a bit if you lug it really hard. I am totally used to it. I did not update the countershaft shim, either. If I ever have to drop it again, I probably will. Anyway, if your car had a quiet, all-stock exhaust and no engine mods then the noise would probably be a bit of an issue. But with all the mods your car has, I'm guessing it's pretty raucous. Mine is. The trans noise is not a big deal. Maybe someone who lives around you has a light flywheel in theirs and you can listen to it?
While driving mine it seems like it is making some of the noise you guys describe and others describe so I'm not sure if my DMFW is still in or not. I'm ordering today so I will decide shortly which flywheel I want to go with for better or worse lol. Thanks for the input.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,119
Likes: 1,994
From: St. Charles MO
While driving mine it seems like it is making some of the noise you guys describe and others describe so I'm not sure if my DMFW is still in or not. I'm ordering today so I will decide shortly which flywheel I want to go with for better or worse lol. Thanks for the input.
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Went with the spec stage 3+ and the extra mass flywheel. The guys at spec recommended the extra mass. I'm not into hearing noise other than the supercharger and exhaust lol. Oh and the radio. Thanks for the replies guys.